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Fuel can drain back to the tank if the check valve in the fuel pump is not sealing properly, otherwise it should be full all the time. Does it take a while to catch or require a few starts to stay running?

Then you are losing fluid out of the system somewhere else at a higher rate than the leak in the lid seal. Even if it leaks fluid a little it would be sucking air into the leak when the brakes are applied. So somewhere in the system the fluid is being lost faster than the leak can supply air to...

Everything except the fan speed control and A/C compressor is Vacuum operated and controlled. The heater valve is connected through a valve on the selector switch. One line goes to the heater valve, the others go to the diverter door actuator on the heater box. Having a good vacuum connection...

If you notice the M/C seal, there is an accordion expansion bladder in each of the reservoirs. They will expand downward to keep air from entering the reservoir as the brake fluid is pumped out of the reservoir into the brake system. If you are losing fluid in either the front or rear brakes...

RTV is good insurance that it won't leak, and will go in easily.

Your 81 is equipped with Astro-ventilation, which means even though your fan blower is off it still blows a little bit of air through the ducts. If your heater/AC/vent/defrost controls seem to be working right and yout fan speed selector switches the fan speed OK, then the problem might be in...

I have used Collinite Insulator wax for years. It is really good for long term protection, but it comes off really hard after applying it. Then a few years ago at Carlisle, a guy comes along with some sample bottles of Formula 113 and offers to try it on my 82 Vette. Turns out he owns and...

That's good to hear. Mine's driving me nuts too!:W

But there was no problem other than the leaking cylinder before he replaced it. Why would the valve need balancing if it was working fine before? He didn't replace the valve, just the cylinder. Let's imagine that the piston seal in the cylinder was installed improperly, or broken in the new...

Auto zone has a rebuild kit that includes the modulator, gaskets, filter. Advance Auto has the pan gaskets, filter and modulator separately , get the B&M one. You will have to drop the tranny if you really want to drain the torque converter. No drain plug.

Inside the temp sender is a device called a Thermistor. It is a temperature variable resistor and changes its resistance with change in temperature. In ice water(32degrees F/ 0 degrees C) it will have one resistance and in boiling water(212 degrees F/ 100 degrees C) it will have another. One...

Most of those conditioners will make the transmission shift extremely hard. They swell the seals and O-rings in the valve bodies but also make them softer causing the valves to actuate faster. Thus the bang when shifting. If it didn't really need it, it may be better to go back to the straight...

The module you are looking for is actually a vacuum modulator on the transmission. The TH350 transmissions use a vacuum line that runs from the intake manifold to the vacuum modulator on the transmission to determine engine load based on manifold vacuum. The vacuum modulator is a canister that...

Well,, I would have to say since that was the one component you replaced that started the problem, and surely it's bled out by now, that the cylinder is probably defective.

I would put the new bushings on as long as you have them. Then tighten up the steering rod as far as you can and see if that makes a difference. And don't turn the steering wheel lock to lock without the steering rod attached unless the front wheels are off the ground. The valve is kind of...

In your first post, you said that the end of the pittman arm to the steering valve was where the slop is. Is that still the area that you think is the problem? The pittman arm connects to the steering valve by a short tapered shaft that comes off the steering valve. That shaft is pressed into...

The steering cylinder has to be filled with fluid for it to operate properly. Since it is already installed, I would suggest this to purge the air out of the cylinder. Disconnect the rod end from the frame bracket. Start the engine and turn the steering wheel until the steering cylinder...

No calibration. But your contacts need to be good for it to read accurate. I think aluminum washers need to be replaced with copper ones to get good conductance. Maybe add a touch of solder for good measure.:beer

Or get one on Ebay. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/78-82-corvette-interior-courtesy-light-delay-timer-NEW_W0QQitemZ350072516717QQcmdZViewItem?hash=item350072516717&_trksid=p3286.m14.l1318

The timer module has a simple R-C timeout circuit that discharges a capacitor on the board through a resistor. Once the minimum voltage threshold has been reached at the transistor base, a transistor shuts off the current running between the emitter and the collector. So either the resistor or...