I concur with the Onstar being alot of hype. I had it on my Trail Blazer for 3 years and when I needed it, it couldn't deliver. Open parking lot on a partly cloudy day and it could not open my locked vehicle. After waiting 1.5 hours for a locksmith I'll use AAA, thank you very much.
Shelf life
Careful using Sta-bil. It's shelf life is not forever. The back of the bottle will tell you when opened it has a shelf life of 2 years. I mark all of my gas cans and left over Sta-Bil with a date used or opened,
On my '66 small block I took an old steel valve cover and cut out the center area the length of the cover and just left the sides intact. With that there was very little mess during the engine running adjustment.
E-Prom
You said they must be for LT1's but there ad says 86-92 TPI's also I e-mailed them last week but did not get a response for my '87 chip. Maybe they changed their minds?
I had the same problem on my '66 years ago and the only thing that fixed it was 2 bottles of additive. I don't know if it made any difference but mine was an original and never rebuilt. Back then the additive was whale oil and GM changed some time later.
If you have not done them before take them to somebody who knows how. If not shimmed properly it can get pretty expensive. They are not like the front wheel bearings. I have a friend who years ago replaced his and had to learn the hard way.
Don't kid yourself the porting alone does not give you the performance. I tore my top end down and sent it out for porting of air horn, plenum and injector housings. It was stronger but less than I expected. I contacted Haibeck about a custom e-prom and that made the difference. All the air...
I sent my air horn, plenum and injector housings to Locobob to have a port and polish and was very satisfied with the job. I opted not to have them refinish them and did them myself with some rattle can paint from Lingenfelter. I also masked and tied all the assesorys away from the cam covers...
I had the same problem years ago on my '66 327/350. Mine started after I replaced the clutch. I suspected the clutch was defected. After I had the fly wheel resurfaced and replaced the clutch again it never ran over 200 even on the hottest days in traffic.
I would only go with new injectors. There has been alot of good reviews on Accel injectors. You could go with RC's but if $$$ are an issue they are a little pricey. I bought RC's for my ZR-1 and they came with test data showing they were with in 1psi of each other. The one thing most people...
Doesn't the build sheet state which interior was included. If so then it would have to be a forged document if it states Red interior, which I think is fraud.
I assume when you mean would not start it turned over but you got no ignition. I'll weigh in anyway. I had a '66 with both not turning over and turning over but no start. Mine was a 327/350. The turnover but not start was the starter. I replaced it many times and that would last a month or...
I had an '87 years ago and removed the screens and did not have a bit of trouble in the 4 years I had the car. Performance was certainly better. Shaking a few cobwebs loose upstairs I seem to remember that a question came up at an event at BG years ago about that exact subject. The engineers...
I'll agree with the injector problems. I pulled my top end for a port and polish and I could not believe how bad my secondary injectors had rusted. This is on '92 with 36k miles and I run with valet key on at all times. Plus the fact that half the injector housing bolts were finger tight. One...
I also used the commericial grade black and white Armstrong tile to do my garage. I stopped about 1" short of where my garage door seal mates with the floor. Then I bought some bright red floor paint and painted the area under the door seal. My garage is built on a 5" raised ledge which I...
This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.