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Thanks for the info Patrick. Just reading where a guy gets 30-35 mpg on chevron regular had me revisit the issue. I suspect most go by their gauges instead of actual averaging over till the next actual fill-up. My gauges always tell a better story than when I actually do the math myself.

Specifically, does octane really matter when you are on a roadtrip and performance is not an issue? What would be the long term affect on the engine if any.

I was a bit disappointed on a 400 mile trip here in WA state. I have the Corsa exhaust and the Callaway cold air induction system. I averaged 65 mph, cruise mostly, and still only got 26 mpg with 92 octane. I hesitate to use a lower octane, but I guess on a trip it really does't matter as...

I put the Corsa Sport system on mine and I love it. Idles nice and cruises quietly. Get into it and it sounds great. I also put a Callaway cold air induction as well. It breathes fine. If you can get the use of a lift the exhaust system is a breeze to install yourself.

And the Legend lives...

Read it too. I loved it. Wish I had read the "cop savy" part about 3 days ago. Got pulled over for improperly displayed front license plate. I was using the one that you get from the NCM that mounts low. Needless to say I lost the battle. Ray

Very nice column.

Great article. Thanks. ( I believe that is what Hib was trying to tell me as well).

I thought that was the reason for the tire ratings system is that it applies to all (IE: Uniform Tire Quality Grading-UTQG). Am I misunderstanding you ? Also being michelins come standard now would it not be safe to assume that they also meet GM's ultimate runflat spec ?

My mistake. The 1990 ZR-1 I was talking about was my friends and he is not the original owner. So that is why I thought The brakes were OEM. I guess my only problem is now if the dealer ever replaces the rotors I will have no choice but to put the J-55 on it again. I have the GM 5 year...

If you were to replace your rotors what would be your choice ?

they also may replace the handles as they did on mine. (P/N 19206591 & 192065592)

I followed Twiget's advice as per bulletin (#08-08-67-013B). The dealer installed the new parts in less than 30 min and haven't had a squeak since.

I notice on the 1990 ZR-1 that the rotor is cross drilled and slotted. Also I notice that alot of aftermarket brake kits feature slotted rotors only. Is this the best way of cooling currently ?

I did something very similar but it was a curb. Scratched about a 4 in section of the upper rim. I took it to this specialty wheel repair shop and they turned it out for about $90. It is are no longer clear coated though. Best of luck.

I was under the impression they were cross drilled so as to help in the elimination of heat, thus less chance of warpage or whatever. Whenever i do replace them, I will get a solid or slotted disc.....thanks

Cannot do that now as the dealership machined the rotors after diagnosing the fronts as "badly warped". I lost some rotor but the problem seems to be eliminated. Can you shed some light on your opinion of the J-55 heavy duty brakes (cross-drilled).

Very well said in my opinion.

I agree with all and appreciate the info. I may have mistaken the termanology. Rotors are measured by lateral runout for eveness as I know it. I used the term warpage because when I applied those massive brakes the whole vehicle shuttered strongly especially going downhill at only 40-50 mph...

You have said a mouth full for this layman. I let the dealer make the decision using measured runout as a basis. He did machine the rotors under warranty. However he did not replace the pads and I notice a not full contact with the rotor. I observed this by looking at the scratch contact on...