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Ted- You may be confusing ECM code 41 with CCM code 41.

It's possible you have a bad ECM, but not likely. That code is a CCM fault which set if the CCM cannot communicate with the ECM. The first thing to check is wires and connections between the two controllers. Also, I apologize for not mentioning CCM diagnostics (FSM Sec 8D-1) as a way to get ECM...

Check the Service Manual, but, as I recall the hoses under the seat are for the air bladders in the seat and they are connected to a pump inside the seat.

When you hold it on "Start" is the starter motor also running?

In the Factory Service Manual you should find some diagnostic info on what to do if there is no check engine light at bulb check or no check engine light and codes which are set. Also, check the bulb in the DIC behind the "Check Engine". Could be the bulb is inoperable or has been removed...

You need the Factory Service Manual. Do you have one?

Turn the key on but don't start the engine. Do you see the Check Engine Light come on during bulb check then stay on when the engine is not running?

As you know, you have two faults, one in the MAF sensor circuits and one in the burn-off relay circuits. The diagnostic info for those two faults is too lengthy to repost here. Do you have the Factory Service Manual? If so, the first thing I'd do is look for the diagnostic and repair...

Well...if Dave says it's a wrist pin, it's time for an engine overhaul. Good luck.

I'd take Cardone's work on this problem before I'd take Summit's. Cardone actually rebuilds ECMs. All Summit does is sell parts. If you still have your '82 ECM, have you tried reinstalling it?

You say you can see the brake slowly apply... Is that with the ignition on or off? When the caliper slowly applies, can you hear the ABS pump motor running? Your post was a little unclear on one thing... Did you mean that if you hit the ABS modulator with a hammer momentarily stops the...

Do a compression test and a leakage test. That will help you determine if the problem is valve-related.

I'll assume from the short OP that it only shakes when the car is moving. Have the rear tires balanced. I would have a service facility inspect all of the front suspension, rear suspension and steering. Repair as necessary then align all four wheels.

If a brake caliper "froze" with the brake applied you'd have noticed that right away by either that wheel locked or the car pulling. If neither of those characteristics were present, then the brake was not locked. I think a new set of tires are in your future.

If the engine makes "wrist pin" noise, then you have a potentially expensive problem because, when the engine is in good condition, wrists pins don't make noise that you could hear. If in fact the clicking you hear is coming from a wrist pin, it might be running great now but you can expect...

There is no easy way to determine conclusively whether and engine has been "dyno tuned". One way to tell is to compare the current calibration in the ECM to a stock cal. You'd need HPTuners for that. That said, if the car as-modified drives nicely, then you can assume that's it's been properly...

Have you checked both ends of each cable?

You're getting the check gauges light because your gas gauge senders are FUBAR and that makes the ECM think you're running out of gas. I don't think you can "reset" the check gauges warning when it's being shown because of low fuel. If treating the fuel system with Techron did not work, it's...

When you say you are "plugging in" these gauges, I'm trying to understand what you mean. Are you working underneath the instrument panel connecting the wiring harness to the gauges? Are you doing this with the ignition on or off?

You're joking...right?:chuckle One of the downsides of forum sites is posts offering technical information offered by persons who have little understanding of the subject about which they are offering advice. An example of that is above. Someone looking for a TECH2 is likely a person who needs...