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You'll need new R134a-compatible o-rings, PAG oil, and a vacuum pump. I always recommend this forum, since a/c is all these people know and they are really helpful: http://www.aircondition.com/wwwboard/ Also, here is an excellent article...

I can't help you with the body work question, but I know how you feel about parking lot mishaps. A couple of months ago I went to Lowes, come out to my car and some bozo with two kids in a big white truck backed into his space instead of going in forward. He merrily waltzed into the store...

I bought my last compressor on Ebay. I believe 89-96 are all the same, but don't quote me on that. It is a Nippondenso 10PA20c. Variations of this compressor were popular in the eighties and nineties for high end cars, you'll find them on Lexuses, Porsches, etc. The weak point is the shaft...

You can safely remove what a lot of people call the "frisbee" with no ill effects.

What's wrong with "C4"? Short and to the point.

Wow. I'd be way too intimidated to punch the block and the manifold with a hammer. For the novice mechanic that's a great way to deform the metal if you're not careful, and then you have some real problems.

Ewww.

You might try checking your fuel pressure, it's really easy to do, just hook it up to the schrader valve on the fuel rail.

Replacing the booster is not fun. The only way to do it is remove the drivers seat, lie on your back, and let the expletives fly as you try to remove the nuts.

Easiest way to tell is to take off the door speaker grilles and/or the rear speaker grilles, if you see the 4" speaker in its own little box, it's a Bose. Taking this a step further, if you unscrew the speakers and pull them out, then feel around inside for the small metal amplifier box, this...

It's interesting, but he'll never get the price he's asking. Aside from the special paint job, there isn't anything different from a normal Corvette.

Yes, these are classic signs of a VATS problem. Getting a new ignition key usually solves the problem.

I would suspect the master cylinder instead of the power booster. The only thing that can go wrong with the booster is the diaphgram starts to leak, and that leads to hissing. If there is no hissing, I would tend to believe that it's okay. I suggest you consider replacing your m/c.

I'm always surprised how many responses this topic generates whenever it's posted. With all the cool things about this car, why let a non-waver ruin your day? Geez, just let it go already.

What do you mean you "checked the freon"? Did you check your high and low pressures with a set of gauges? Another thing, is there a spray of oil on the underside of your hood, directly above the compressor? If so, you are experiencing shaft seal leak, a common problem on the Denso compressor...

I've been through this whole thing several times. $250 sounds reasonable if he didn't have to replace anything. Here's what's involved: a) depressurize the system b) flush all the components (except the compressor, I just remove it and turn it upside down over a bucket and let it drain for...

You people who are complaining about the price, you don't have to buy it. He can ask whatever he wants, that's what this forum is for.

Here is a great site for a/c questions, and the resident techs are very knowledgable about the conversion: http://www.aircondition.com/wwwboard/

I got my carpet from Wilcox as well. Whenever I leave my car parked in the sun, the rear carpet deforms from the heat, while the stock carpet never did that. I know, I know, "don't park in the sun", but that's difficult to do in Honolulu.

If your fan isn't coming on at all, I suspect that something wasn't reconnected after your radiator was installed. Did you do it yourself or did a shop do it?