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A local automotive glass/upholstery shop. The cost was $350CDN, about $325US at that time. That was cleaning the seat frames, primer, and rustoleum paint. New foams, seat covers, nuts and bolts, hockey sticks, plus the head rests. Parts were my cost. I only quoted labour.

You are not getting any replies to your question. So here goes. I did not do it but had it done two years ago. Thus just a few brief comments. The unit is welded to the seat frame after some careful measurements provided with the kit. Pretty straight-forward. The upper surface of the seat...

Yes, where have you been? Not just here and the other area that I can't mention. Hope things are well with you!

No Crappy Tire does not have them. I was there today. And I know of the PICO line. Nice products. But in retrospect, if a dab of solder links the female terminals to the male ends on the switch then that dimple will not be necessary. *Edit*-Home Depot has those connectors. Picked some up today.

00fxd, I now realize what you mean re the little locking bump on the female terminals. The ones in my parts bin do not have that bump. Would a GM dealer have the right ones?

Good for you Ron! We had about 6-8" of ice pellets and snow yesterday. But I would say that in about 6 weeks the 1967 will come out of storage. The sun today is melting the snowbanks and leaving the usual ugly mix of salt and sand behind but April showers will take that way quite quickly. I...

"Necessity is the Mother of invention". So the old saying goes. But her Son was Bubba and I am related. But what the heck, I will expose my basic automobile instincts. And my cheapskate nature. In the absence of wanting a $403.00 dash wiring harness to replace a $1.00 ignition switch connector...

Stepinwolf did not say so but contact these people. It's Montreal, not far. http://www.ncrsquebec.com/ I would forewarn you to expect a minimum 3-4 month turn-around this time of year. My seat belt guides shown in another thread took two months!

You can get pretty much whatever you want at a reasonable price here: http://www.andoauto.com/seat_belts.htm

Thanks John. Another dead-end as I posted over at NCRS. I will wire now each spade connector seperately. And to be quite frank, it appears to be a more secure method of doing those connections. Not GM but devoid of the regidity of the connector movement that pulls all terminals at once in the...

OK, many thanks. I now feel more comfortable with the individual connectors. And quite frankly, they seem much more secure as a grouping than the bulk connector. Each connection is very tight on my little test-bed. I very much appreciate the advice on this matter. And I thank you for your...

Sorry to prolong this discussion ;help . If I remove the original wires from the broken connector and individually wire them to the switch terminals, should I shrink-wrap just to the base of the spade connector or the entire terminal? My concern is arcing terminal-to-terminal in the absence of...

NAPA? PS - No shipping or brokerage. NAPA Canada units come out of Montreal to your local store. http://www.napaonline.com/masterpages/NOLMaster.aspx?PageId=470&LineCode=BA&PartNumber=1866298&Description=Generator+-+Remfd

Tom, You are here too! The C2 world is small. The Eckler's belts can be modified to accept GM tongues and buckles. These are "GM" buckles from a supplier. Not correct "Bowtie" for 1967 but I can live with that. They fit into console receptacles. The generic chrome push/pull buckles do not. The...

Just to end this one off, I have spent hours on-line trying to find that connector. No luck. Fall-back position is to avoid wiring cut/splice and just connect each of the original four wires with individual female terminals (with boots) to the ignition switch and just avoid/discard the...

I was wondering how they came out. Thanks!

Bryan, I just caught that. Thank you. OOfxd, Are you speaking of the nylon connector or the ignition switch metal housing?

00FXD, I see where you are coming from but nice soldered splices with heat shrink-wraps would do a nice job in that area.

Bob, Thanks for that link but that harness is not in very good shape. In fact much worse than mine. Also the wiring must be 1967-specific if I read the various catalogues correctly. That may apply to the harness only and not the connector. I do not know.

The NCRS people tell me that the Packard/GM number was 2989610. But I can't find that anywhere. Salvage yards around here do not keep cars that old. They have been crushed and shredded.