there is an interface module for some setups and there are adapters ,you may need to use a tech1 . I could hook you up but georgia would be a hall I would check the resistance that would be a good start and remove any doubt about the electrical properties of the injectors Steve
it would be more evident cold ,with may be a slight rough idle warm if they are not to bad when it goes into closed loop the ecm can make adjustment that compensates for the problem to a certain degree a scan tool is a huge plus with problems like
this steve
off the top of my head it seems 10 to 16 ohms is the value just remove the plug and check them at the injector the closer to the same values the better any dramatic differace it is junk high or low you would most likely see them low . a fuel drop is with the rail pressurized then a tool is used...
how do you know it is rich ? sounds like you really need a scan tool . what you describe almost sounds like it make be lean . These cars were notorius for injector problems I would check all the injector resistance values and maybe a fuel pressure check. an injector fuel drop test coukd not hurt...
are we talking the same thing this is the sensor for the ecm input not thermostat . also this would need to be read with a scan tool and it may not set a code dependind on how bad it may have failed if it is changing at all the ecm may be happy and not set a code Steve
sounds like a ground issue to me make sure each lamp has its own ground also the sockets have a bad ground inside the housing . That would be my first checks before getting to involved Steve
I would give the coolant sensor a look for sure it is a very direct input if it is telling the car it is very cold out it will spew tons of black smoke. it should read ambient temp when the key is turned on before starting Steve
crawl under and check the weep hole at the bottom of the water pump the seal may be starting to go and it would run down the hose on the r/s front of the car it would be worth a look or get a pressure tester and add 15psi and check for leaks Steve
what does the fluid in the trans look like that milkshake is not good .your only saving grace is if the cooler line was pinched to the point of not flowing but then it may have overheated. check the trans if you have milkshake in there it is only a question of time Steve
a lot depends on the milage and how the previous P.M. was done:thumb. you could take a wet and dry compression test and make a determination along with a leak down test this is a good bet but not a guarantee of future problems ;). Does it have blow by now? The thing is with the upgrades you may...
I just got my renewel and it seems as if grundy is no longer in the antique auto insurance :ugh the new company is markel american . do not know the whole story on this :W but seems to be the same coverage and no milage restriction steve
you can't make everyone happy.I don't even try the info is out there one way or another. some people will shop till they find the answers they want Iam sure hib has big shoulders :thumb Steve
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