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It could be anything from a rock in your trim ring to a broken tooth on your pinion. Start at the cheap stuff....take the trim rings off and check for rocks.....take the center hat off and look for a broken stud. Then on to the more expensive stuff....Jack the rear end and put the car on...

Well.....not exactly. I have a B&M shift kit in my T-350 set up for the hardest shift that it will give. With my 3000 RPM stall converter you can NOT tell that the car has shifted from 1st to 2nd at normal cusing speeds. When it shifts in to 3rd the only way that you can tell is by the RPM drop...

The sales folks at a converter shop are going to want to know the cam specs. and the total weight of the car also. My take on it would be something in the 2000 to 2400 RPM range. ALWAYS use an aftermarket cooler with a higher stall converter. When you put a higher stall speed converter in your...

I would recommend that you get a vacuum pump from a local junkyard. You can find them in mid eightys Cads. and Olds. I used a vacuum cannister with my 300/310 duration cam and was not happy overall. It had great brake pedal when you had been driving down the road, but if you were in stop and...

I went from a worn out 9 leaf rear spring to a fiberglass rear spring with a rear sway bar and made a mess of my 60 foot times. Softer springs, no rear sway bar and the adjustable camber bars mentioned above would seem to be the direction to go.

The DynoMax headers sold by both Summit and Jeg's fit well and are priced right. Get the cerama-coated headers for an almost chrome look and less underhood heat.

I have a stock fuel pump on my 406. The remote fuel pressure gage reads 5 PSI at idle and 6 PSI at anything above idle, the only exception being that at the end of a 1/4 mile run at the drag strip it's down to 4 PSI. Guess the Speed Demon likes a lot of gas on the top end.

At one point during the long winter I gave some thought to adding flame throwers to my Hooker sidepipes.;shrug It sure would keep the crowd back on the curb during cruise nights.:L

Since I didn't expect to have much movement in the secondary side of my Street Avenger during my break in of my newly rebuilt engine I set the secondary float lower than the inital setting recommended. As I came back from a tuning trip I would check the sight plug. If there was no fuel there I...

There should be a foam seal around the top of the bellhousing to keep hot air from the tunnel area. If you do not have one get one.

Install a true dual exhaust. Add headers to the exhaust. That will be a great way to wake your engine up plus it will provide a needed base for any further mods that you may want to do later.

Given the comment that 73stinger made I wouldn't make any written statement about an illegal activity. He may want to launch a federal investigation.

Thank you for the reminder.

Just get used to driving 5 MPH under the speed limit in the highest gear that you can and you'll be fine.

I had a 670 Street Avenger on a 350 that was cammed and had ported heads. It worked great. I think that a 770 would have been too much.

I've got a 1 1/8th in the front and a 5/8ths sway bar in the rear. I think that I have too large a bar in the rear for me.

It sounds like someone has installed an aftermarket transmission cooler on your car. That is not a bad thing at all.

I had a 670 Street Avenger on my just removed 350. I tuned that carb. as close as I could to perfect. If I take it apart right now I think that it has primary jets one size down from what it came with and every other jet or setting is at the standard setting. The folks at Holley really do...

You can place shims under the hinge point and at the latch. Byond that you have to use rubber bumpers to adjust the hood height.

One of the members here (Grandsport-C3 ?) has one of these engines. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2453555616&category=33615