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To make it easy, you need to take off the trim plate below the steering column, drop down the column itself. There are 2 screws in the top half that need to be removed then you will see the others on the cluster that have to be removed. The most importain thing is you MUST reach up and push the...

Before you remove the hood to work on it, drill and tap three 1/4" X 24 holes in a triangle on each hood bracket, that will be your NET LOCATOR when replacing the hood and you wont have to realign it. Cut Away the Damage Never try to save damaged fiberglass; always cut it out and replace it...

Go with flat top's or a dished type, you will have a better quench and can get them in various compression rates.

When I done mine I took off the belts and rotated the alternator and air outboard, removed the clutch fan, removed the upper rad. hose, there are 2 bolts on the top that hold in in place, there are tabs on the bottom that go into slots on the support that hold it in place on the bottom. Lift it...

I just done my car yesturday with VB&P's complete kit. I have an 80' but in my shop book it has 70# tq. & that's what I put mine at. There are no spec's on the instruction sheet from VB&P. You will like the ride. Did you get the shocks to match the fiberglass spring?

Very soft springs in the distributor will give spark knock coming in to fast. I still belive its to lean, to rich on the pump will be boggy or slugish.

I just had Vette Brake Products performance Plus system installed on my 80. What a differance in the ride and handling. Its great you can adjust ride height and spring rate, and alignment is much easier to do. Also installed the slotted brake rotors and offset trailing arms.

The accelerator pump may be good but it is not adjusted correctly. A lean condition cause's a backfire thru the carb which takes you back to the accelerator pump. Here's Edelbrocks tech site that tells how to adjust the metering rod's. http://www.edelbrock.com/automotive/index.html

Hi Dave, I do have some pics posted. Flowtech make's the muffler. They are made from 16 ga. steel. I use the 3" one's. I'm running 1 3/4" headers into Flowmaster Try Y's and 3" pipe all the way out. Its also a 427 small block.

I looked at them and ended up with Warlock's which are real "throaty" and have a deep tone and also an end cap like a header cap that can be removed for a open pipe. They have a sound of their own.

The rearend in the 80-82 is a Dana 44 with 3.07 gears. The posi unit cannot take to much horse power, I was shearing the clutch keeper in half with another 75 HP added. I ended up with a new Eaton unit that is gear driven. No problem with it yet, and running 650 plus hp.