Grundy is a good company, I don't use them, but a friend of mine does for his 70 hemi challenger R/T Conv. that is going through restoration now.
From what I understand , Grundy will insure cars under restoration.
I believe you are right about the wires.
It's different alright. are both of those for the rear? the one on the right looks like my front one.
I got the speaker info from a web site and that is what speakers they said to use. I will look later at the rear speakers from that site and see if...
On My 90 once I used the bypass harness and new speaker wires the Radio rec was out of the loop which should have made the relay inoperative.
I think I used 6.5 coax in the rear and the screws lined up
I removed mine without removing the TB. I used a pair of needle nose Vice Grips.
I would suggest that you go ahead and remove the TB to clean it. I ended up taking mine off when I replaced the injectors. It was pretty dirty.I realized I should have done that when I replace IAC.
R-12 can still be bought for around $20.00 per pound. It's just my opinion, but I would rather check for leaks then recharge with R-12. It takes a little over 2lbs.
As you will find, there is a lot more to a changeover than fittings and R-134.
GMjunkie has posted a good version of what needs...
the only splice I made was to the original wiring harness that pluged into the Bose head unit and that was for the resistors. I didn't even take out the Rec.
I just did this on my 90.
regardless whether you buy a Din or a double Din, It's the approach you use in the set up.Din will require a Kit to install.
Buy the harness that bypasses the Radio Rec. On mine I wired the harness into the new radio harness extending it where it was long enough to...
MBDiag,
I understood what you meant and I agree. None of the stop leak you buy in the parts store works in my opinion. I would have been skeptical with this other stuff had I not seen the demo, and even it had limitations.
But I still wont use it because I have the ability and the equipment...
my 90 was going through the air being directed to the wrong place. Most of the cars I have done this is directed by vacuum which seems to be controlled by the programmer.
Turned out to be the A/C heater programmer. Changed it out now it is fine.
one more thing , If you use the Bose speakers you will have to cut out the amps.
I just replaced them using the Bose speaker cases. take out the amps.
There are speakers that fit without cutting anything up. I found them.
the reason the SES light comes on is because its looking for current from the head unit. if it doesn't see it the SES light will come on. If you change radios and don't provide the current with the 2 resistors it will come on.
The wiring harnes I used bypassed the rec., mine was located...
I went to Ebay and bought a true dual exhaust system from the exhaust manifolds back with the H pipe for about $250.00. It also had the threaded nut for the CO2 sensor. I used stock mufflers. I didn't want it to loud. It had noise masters on it when I got it. That to me was better than cat back...
I haven't had a problem at all, even my antenna works along with the lights. Now Dogfish is right , if you don't follow the correct procedure you can make a mess. Most of the problems you hear of are concerning the SES light that comes on after the Bose system is removed.
GM put out a TSB...
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