Check the condition of your lower radiator hose. Does it have the spring inside? My guess is that you are partially collapsing the lower hose while driving at speed. Also check to make sure nothing is block the flow of air while moving (front license plate?). For example, this problem is...
I looked into this about a year ago and the consensus was the digital gages were pretty good. I bought an "Accutire" brand name which also rated high. What I don't like about the digital gages are lack of a bleed off valve and the fact you have to keep resetting before taking a new reading...
Well it started with the cotter pin breaking into pieces and I had to remove enough of it in order to get a wrench on the bolt. Hitting the wrench with a hammer I sheared the pin and remove the nut. Then I took a 1/2" extension and even with the bad angle I was able to drive the bolt flush with...
Update: After a small fight, was able to drive both bolts out and new ones in (heavily coated in anti-seize). Should make for an easier job someday if I ever need to get the arms rebuilt.
I was planning on taking a piece of 1" dia. round bar and putting a hole or dimple in the end of it so it would stay on the end of the bolt as I was hitting it at an angle.
Am I correct in saying the sawzall route involves removing the arm (i.e. disconnecting the brake lines, shocks, half...
I have to get the rear toe in adjusted (-1/2 total right now) and need to replace the original trailing arm bolts and shims before anyone will probably want to look at it. I picked up new bolts and stainless slotted shims this weekend at Carlisle. I'm hoping that with new bolts and shims...
I need to replace my P/S relay rod (bent). Once I disconnect it from the idler arm and both tie rod ends, does it just unscrew from the control valve? I'm not at home where I could look it up in service manual. I see were the supply houses sell a larger replacement from the C3's at a much lower...
Do a quick search for the procedure but there is a good chance the contact points just need to be cleaned. I tried to do it on mine but one of my little springs was bad. It's not that hard of a job.
That's good to hear about Mobil 1 15W50. I just had the engine rebuilt last year with a Comp Cam Xtreme Energy cam. No problem so far but I've been worried ever since I started hearing about all this stuff after the fact. My engine builder speced the cam and told me to run the M1. The reason...
I had a truck that had a tight plug location. I just took a cheap spark plug socket and with a little time on a dremel made one almost like the pictures above. Not as nice, but cheaper and worked great.
Kid_Again,
Not all BB's had an 80# oil gauge. I forget the break down but it's in Nolan's book. My '67 with an L68, came with a 60# gauge. And yes I have the orignal tank sheet, Protec-O-Plate, etc. And I know the cluster is original as well.
Not trying to make this a bigger job BUT you should think about addressing the rust issue now while its not too bad. It's only going to get worse.
Good Luck.
I saw it three times this summer, Corvette show, local cruise, and Carlisle. It was neat to see on the cover. I knew it was his right away. My "guess". Summit has their own cruises and although I've never been to one, its less than two hours away from here. I bet he had it up there. This...
Have the lever and it has never been a problem. Got mine at Advance Auto for about $22. Not sure what style is better but when I did my research it seemed a few people had problems with the knobs. Do a search.
This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.