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Unless the original owner saved the window sticker and passed it along with the car, you are SOL. Body number means next to nothing. Beginning with the '67 model we can hope to find the 'build sheet' stuck to the top of the fuel tank.

Looks really, really grim. Not for the feint of heart. :ohnoes JM.02 Vin plate is spot welded to the steering column under the hood. (I think.) Start at 4K. (So you can part it out if you have to.)

I made one of those when I changed the fuel pump on mom's '59 wagon.:upthumbs Not really very hard to do. You just bolt up the new pump without lifting the unseen pushrod that had fallen down. It only ran for a few moments. Dad fixed it when he got home from work. Give me a break, I was...

That is horse hockey! Moly rings usually seat in the first 15 min. of run time. If the valve stem seals were totally absent it wouldn't use that much oil.

Yup, That tube goes thru the manifold and is there to provide hot, clean air to the choke coil. It is sucking sooty exhaust gasses at present.

Cannot help you with the smoke problem ;shrug but the park mechanism needs the wiper blade/windshield drag to park. (Armature inertia carries it past the "dead" spot.)

Very well can be a "B". :beer JM .02

You need to install new seals on the piston in your master cylinder. About a one hour job but I could make it last a couple days.:D Master cylinder kit is likely less than ten bucks at your flaps.

And...........................not installed upside down.

A Corvair jack has an extra 'tab' punched and turned up on the lift pad and a Vet jack don't. For years I carried a 'Vair jack & handle in my vet but the jack storage well filled with water (typical hatch drain plugged up) and ruined it over one winter. My other car is a '62 Corvair.

Man, that's way past just poor ethics.:(

;LOL;LOL Looks like someone went go to great lengths to avoid a state issued vin and they got bit.:chuckle

If I remember right, you can replace just the upper bearing without column removal. You will have to remove the wheel/hub and turnsignal sw. etc. Bearing is about $22 at Volunteer Vet Parts. Part number ST28.

brrrdman: In reply to your email question. The motor/reducer is easily removed. Prop the hood open (There is absolutely no need to remove it!). Borrow your wife's hand mirror so you can see what you are doing. Disconnect the power leads. Remove the motor brace and pull the clip. Using the hand...

Rollover switch link. Rollover switch link. http://www.lbfun.com/warehouse/tech_info/electrical/Headlightupdownswitch.jpg The problem with the switch is that it carries much more current as things get older that what it was designed for. Therefore the contacts burn quickly. (The General...

This should help: http://www.lbfun.com/warehouse/tech_info/body_&_frame/Headlight%20Motor%20Rebuild.pdf The only problem I have with the directions is the deal about rotating the output gear 180 deg. :eyerole It is much better to just replace both gears for about $50. The contacts in the...

There is a fair/middling illustration on p. 1AQ-12 fig. 20 of the heater hoses in the Chassis Service Manual. Hope that helps.

Awh geeze, yah cought me.:ohnoes

Learn sumptin ever day.:D It's impossible to post proper tables on all the forums I've been on. ;shrug

I didn't think it was possible to get AC with the 365 hp engine.:duh Is this a case of seller's remorse? http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c1-and-c2-corvettes/2291091-64-white-coupe-sold-on-e-bay-fraud-4.html How is this an issue with ebay?:eyerole