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I know that ford and mazda use the acroynm IAT, and I believe that GM switched to that terminology once the OBDII stuff began. Codes 23-25 window/s parameters code 23: is set when mat signal voltage temp. stays below -30c for 1 second, engine run time 2 min. and no vss signal, or, ignition...

and why would anyone want this ??? I would seriously hope that no one would actually try to manipulate the mv. readings in that fashion. Manifold Air Temperature or MAT sensor ...that is the acronym used by GM in the fsm (Factory Service Manual)for 90-91. A scanner or software and a laptop...

lol.. I think that many would like to find an easier way to gain some extra ponies....unfortunately it takes real parts to make power.

yes it monitors air temp, and airflow, to supposedly aid in the product ofcombustion. The look-up tables include: inverse airflow (grs. per sec) and temp. The system is complex and if we rule out the other 50 or so add-on tables, ultimately fueling air calculations begin with the input of the...

The purpose of the mat sensor in the 90-91 cars is to monitor cylinder temp/pressure. The idea was that through the use of the sensor, fuelings changes can be made based on airflow and temp. (using add-on tables in the prom). Relocating the sensor does not have the effect some would think in...

Mine originally had an fx-3 system and it worked properly. I switched mine to coil-overs (qa-1's) and the car never felt or handled better, not to mention shock adjustment for straight line use....a bit of work involved but well worth it IMO.

for all the talk you've done on every forum on the net (not to mention re-signing under a different user names after being banned), I hope for your sake if and when they are made, you're getting one hell of a deal on it.

AIR deleting in the chip is very simple, and if not will have very little effect on the tune. AC, if not 'on', will not do anything from the perspective of the tune, or the way it runs. holy crap, I better hurry up and put the stock slow parts back on...:rotfl

GM 4 bolt studded block, callies crank, compstar rods, srp 16cc inverted dish, 236/242@50 600/600+ lift h.r. billet, AFR 190 comp. port (older ones), mini ram (ported and matched), 58 tb. 36# inj. cloyes, canton pan, w/pump gas pulled 537chp 517ctq. (without a totally tweaked afr). in car pics.

you need gear as stated above Vetteoz answered you correctly, a dyno tuner will be using that type of gear and you are hoping the dyno guys of choice have experience with various makes models of ecm's. The only way to tune a computer controlled car is with that type of equipment and...

Use an experienced powder coater who does automotive work. This will help when using temps. and times for out gassing alum. mag. and other metals including masking. Typically all coaters will media blast all parts first before pre-heating. Almost everything on mine except for the block and heads...

Just looked it up and I see they are now calling it "fire sleeve" ...I used the entire 3' length, but is probably overkill. I have had good success with this product and used it on the starter pos. cable, oil cooler hose by the block/header and other places that I thought heat would cause...

Basically any of the B&M "pro stick" series or "pro ratchet" series have a front mounted cable and can be used with the 700R (all the "bandit" style shifters have the cable mounted/exiting from the rear of the shifter). If a gate style shifter is your preference, some only come with a 3 or 2...

The rear exit cable on the Hi tech will not work. I tried one based on "tech" input from the co. Pretty sure all the aftermarkets are going to have the same cable routing issue as the rest, the only resolve I see is to wrap it over the top and come down the drivers side. here is a pic the first...

so this didn't answer all your questions ? Renegade Manifold Update - Page 4 - SmokinVette.com Forums

I'm not trying to discourage you, but my advice is I don't think the gains (if any, or very small) would be worth all the effort needed to swap cams. If you are going to do all that work to install a new cam put one that canl make some better gains. Don't be afraid to get a tune or have some one...

sure, and if money isn't an object, then there is no problem....however be prepared it will cost big by the time your done re-doing everything (motor, trans, exhaust, ecm, etc.etc.). If your going to throw that kind of money at it, then there are many options.

undoubtlably all will need some extra work in different areas. Hookers fitment is great but standooff's for alt. and dipstick will need some fideling. TPIS on some will have some issue w/the Y pipe needing modifying, but standoffs are good w/original bolts. From there slip fit collectors will...

I thought long tubes were out of the question on the left coast. Regarding cylinder heads, using an aftermarket head can be benificilal when the costs of re-working/porting, re-surface, valve job (and possibly bigger valves), springs, retainers, seals etc. etc. then are equal or more than buying...

sounds like the EST, when disconnected allows for adjusting base timing at 6* (w/out computer control).