That's the thing - no codes for o2's or anything close. Was getting the "knock sensor circuit" code 43. I could tell when it was switching loops before because that is when it would struggle and the CEL would come on and then smooth out a bit.
Put about 20 miles on it and CEL is not coming on...
Was getting H43, but put in a new o2 sensor on the drivers side and that fixed the problem! The old one was the OE and was caked in soot. It must have been very lazy, if working at all.
Still idles a little bit rough, but I need to take plugs 1 and 3 out to clean them off. I checked 5 and 7...
Well, problem still happening.
It idles a little rough, then when it warms up it starts surging a little and struggling and then the CEL comes on and idle smooths out. H43 is the code that comes up. I cannot see how that can be the issue because the engine does not knock at all.
The exhaust...
Right bank seems fine, left bank is VERY rich. Soot all over the exhaust tip and black cloud whenever I floor it.
It has an intermittent code 43. It will run fine for a while, then struggles at idle and the CEL comes on and then idles fine again.
It has new plugs, wires, Opti, knock sensors...
Before I replaced the sensors, the code 43 would come up all the time.
I installed the new sensors, screwed them about halfway in to the block until I met some resistance. CEL was still constant.
About 100miles later, I finally bought a torque wrench and readjusted the sensors as I noted...
Check the door jam light switches. The little mushroom head broke off on the plunger and caused the lights to flicker when driving on bumpy roads.
For the time being, I put one of those stick on felt pads for the bottom of chair feet on the door jamb until I get around to ordering a new switch.
Yes, genuine AC Delco parts.
Torqued to 14lbs with my Torque Wrench.
Here is my question: Should they be torqued to 14lbs once the sensor is all the way screwed into the block? I met 14lbs about halfway in. I screwed the sensors in until they bottomed out and then torqued to 14lbs.
The only...
1994 Automatic.
CEL comes on w/code 43 when engine warms up and reaches closed loop. The CEL turns off every time after shutting off the engine. The code 43 comes on when switching from open to closed loop.
Knock sensors are brand new. Wiring checks out fine.
The only thing I can find is to...
The computer in a '94 with an automatic is actually a "PCM" or Powertrain Control Module because the it controls the shifts with programming and electronic solenoids.
I don't think it will work. :(
Plugs and wires are brand new.
Sounds like mine is having the same exact problem as Tom's car. It starts to surge a bit, the CEL comes on and then smooth idle. The weirdest thing is engine temps. It runs 5 degrees hotter with the CEL and the fans on...
I would take the ECM, but mine is an...
NickyG- Thank you for that info!!! :)
The opti is my next stop. Maybe there is something wrong with that.
I did replace the grease on the ICM and cleaned the heat sink of all the gunk. The miss went away after that.
I just think it is weird that it now throws the code when warm. Maybe when...
I am thinking the PCM is the next step because the wiring is fine, both KS's are new and the CEL comes on when it warms up now.
The odd thing is, the coolant temp stays around 200-203 with the CEL off.
When the CEL comes on, which is always DTC 43, the fans kick on constantly and the temp...
Great news!!
The opti on mine was installed before I bought it and only has 900 miles on it. Maybe mine is having the same problem...
The MPG avg on mine is in the low teen's and never goes past 18mpg on the highway. :(
I tried clearing the codes. This has been a problem for a while.
It did it again today. The CEL is off, then comes on after a while. Before, it would stay on all the time.
This thing is weird.
The CEL went off, finally. Cars starts to surge even more at idle. Comes back on later, idles better.
It has done this a few times today. I'm stumped...
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