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I find that the 600 CFM Edlebrock works very well in this application. You may need to change metering rods and/or jets to tune it to the engine.

A C3 Corvette is a fiberglass hole you throw money into. Enjoy! I know I am. :D

I got burned on this one as well. As some of the other posters on this thread can tell you, it was a long and difficult path, but I learned bunches. Take off the calipers and inspect the pistons. More than likely, you will find one or more leaking seals. If you do, check run out and end play...

I built a 383 stroker with an 8.5:1 compression ratio and added a Wieand street charger 142. I used a cast crank, 400 rods, stock heads with 1.96/1.5 valves, external balance, and pretty much standard parts. The weak link in the whole system was the 700-R4 tranny. I kept slagging the front drum...

Mid America recommends using glue with their precut sets. The old carpet that I just removed had glue, but was not difficult to remove. I plan to get a can of the spray variety and use it sparingly.

Cool, Thanks. Patience was the key to this problem. I sprayed with WD-40 penetrant (different from the regular stuff) for about three days. Each day I would give a couple of tugs with an 18 inch breaker bar. On day three, I gave the offending bolt a couple of whacks with two pound ball peen...

I have started to replace the carpets in my 81 C3. I'm counting on finding and fixing lots of stuff along the way. My current problem is in trying to remove the seat belt anchor bolts. So far I have managed only to explode a T-50 Torx bit. The anchor bolt did not budge. Any suggestions on how I...

You might go to one of several purveyors of speed parts and pick up a crate motor such as Gen V 502. My other suggestion would be to do as I have done and build a stroker small block. Lots of torque (the feel good stuff) and a pretty good amount of horsepower all at reduced weight.

I had my go 'round with the brakes earlier this year. A new Wagner master cylinder is about 40 bucks if you are not concerned with numbers. I ended up pushing a couple of quarts of fluid thru the system before I got all of the air out. Check the calipers for leaky seals. This is what burned...

Update: I replaced the front calipers and bled the system like crazy. The brakes were pretty good, but still not what I was wanting. Tonite I went to the garage to back the car out to do some cleaning. When I stepped on the brakes, they were rock solid. WooHoo! I checked the master...

I tend to agree that the caliper was either stuck or that the brake hose was collapsed keeping the pads against the rotors and generating a huge amount of heat. Along with the hoses, I would check the rotor to ensure that it didn't get warped from the heat and I would change the brake pads. I...

Update on the brake problem. First, Mr. Halverson, I am familiar with how the bleeders work. My problem is, is that in a one man operation air can be pulled around the threads when the bleeder is open compromising the bleeding process. I have used this method in other project cars (mostly...

Take the seat out as well, It's amazing how much work room you gain by doing this.

I had a similar problem on my '81. I ended up rebuilding the heater control. There is a multi ported valve in the heater control that redirects the vacuum around to all the actuators according to the lever position. In my case, this valve had come apart. I purchased one from Ecklers for...

The results of my weekends labors were pretty good. The teflon tape was to prevent air from leaking around the threads of the bleeder while bleeding with an airlock as I am a one man operation in the garage. I took care not to cover the port in the bleeder. I have no idea how old the rubber...

Hello all, Long time reader, first time poster. I know this subject has been addressed several times in this forum, but every one seems a bit different so I'll add this one so everybody can keep score. The problem is the usual, brakes soft and pedal goes to the floor. I've bled the brakes to...