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Check places like Rockauto and I'm sure you'll find something.

Funny thing, I've ridden in a C7 and I think it's easier to get in and out of a C4.

They are moving into a seniors apartment and can only have 1 vehicle from what I was told. I think it was getting to the point where he was having issues getting in and out of the Vette. Shame because I think he bought it new.

I'll add my thoughts here. The Corvette Club I belong to has 90+ Vettes. Of that, there were around 3 or 4 C4s and one member is selling his due to age issues. I think there are more C7s followed by C6s than any other model at this time.

Here's a little trick once you've done the conventional bleed. Mine was done and still had air in it. I was advised of a trick that can work many times: Engine off, slave master cylinder full but top off. Pump the clutch maybe 10 times quickly then hold it the last time. After holding it...

First thing i'd think about would be get the various components of the car in shape before adding any power to it. Things like get the brakes in shape, do the suspension bushings or consider something like the Banski suspension package. Once those things are in place, then maybe consider...

Any vehicle, running or not is worth what someone is willing to pay for it. With so little info on the car, it's worth somewhere between $1 and $1,000,000. Don't mean to be flippant here but with so little info it's impossible to say more on the subject.

That is different. Looks like someone joined a Porsche to a Vette IMO. Wonder how that would handle a park by feel driver?

Please describe the 'SES flutters' a little better. On startup, while driving or what? I'll pass this along just in case. I had a problem with my 86 L98 after buying it. When the weather started getting cold it would start fine, a few blocks from home it would start to buck and the SES light...

Glad it worked out so well for you.

Being the vats system varies between the various years, assuming you are looking to bypass the resistor on the key. 86 rather than a 96, I've used this...

have you tried: http://batee.com/ Does excellent work and sells parts.

Don't know if this applies to your 84 or not. On a 86 IIRC, look at the fuse panel on the passenger side of the dash and the row closest to the firewall, the 4th one from the top controls the power seats and power door locks.

AFAIK you're not going to find an 'exact' match on resistance values on either the keys or bypass dongles. That's why there is range for each vats value. I would think more likely a poor connection or possible starter issue.

So, what's the advantage of collector plates where you're at? Here, the vehicle doesn't have to be 100% original to get them but there are sever drivability restrictions on it. Here collector plates you buy once but there are restrictions. Take it to the grocery store and you can be ticketed...

Are you saying your insurance company will not cover your car if it has a wing on it? I've not heard that one before, If it was me and I wanted the wing, I'd check other insurance companies before removing it.

If it's going through the fuse panel, here's something that can help. Pull a fuse, plug it into the meter and plug the meter into where the fuse was. It will show the draw on each of the fuses. You also have some circuit breakers in there that can be tested with a set of jumpers. Having said...

The one picture shows what I tried (like some questioned) for a year or so. One day while driving, it snapped off between battery and the screw to cut off current in the middle of the highway. I then started asking questions and including Summit, came to the conclusion a 250 amp cutoff would be...

I replaced the negative battery cable from the block to battery with a new cable that runs from the block to a 250 amp IIRC switch then a cable that goes from that switch to the battery. Works great: no run down batteries, added security and no chance for an electrical short causing fires while...

Ditto