Heya all, I have a bit of a quandry to solve as to what speedo gears (drive and driven) I need to install in my transmission.
I have a brand new Autogear BOE (best of everything) M22 assembled for my 1969 Vette.
The trick is, it's using the larger 31 spline output shaft, as used in the 1972...
I thought it was the funniest thing I'd seen since Monty Python knocked a couple of coconut shells together :D
The driver has No clue how to handle a bit torque engine. Powerslides look great on TV but dismal on the timeslips....
Rob: You should mirror that clip, they tend to vanish off...
Heya Eric!
Yeah I sure do remember your car, although the Snapfish place wants me to register, to see your the photos, which I rather not do (potential for spam).
I think I may have a couple of pics of your car in the staging lanes in my Vettemagic gallery too come to think of it...
Thanks for the compliment :)
Yeah, futzing with the Hooker (or GM) sidepipes to R&R the insert is far more effort than I was willing make.
I drove my Vette to work for 6 months with Shoenfeld race "mufflers" in the test pipes, it was just a little bit loud ;LOL Never got pulled over for...
I have a rather unusual side pipe setup on my '69 that you might be interested in knowing about.
The problem with a conventional sidepipe setup is that it is not a tuned length pipe and the compromise between too loud for better power and quiet but choking the engine is an unpleasant one to...
I wouldn't be surprised that with the better flowing heads that the engine is still making nice power inspite of the smog friendly CR.
Before throwing any parts on the engine I would do a basic tune up then put the car on a chassis dyno and dial in the carb with the dyno's wide band O2 sensor...
I don't think you're going to keep the stock hood with an air-gap, a standard Performer intake is about as much as you're likely to be able to fit, and even then you will need a drop base (LT-1) style air cleaner bottom plate.
There's just not much room under the stock small block hoods for a...
Ah, I applaud your interest in diving into the engine world then, cool :cool
In that case I recommend you rebuild your current engine into a 355. You re-use most of the parts to hold down costs.
You bore the cylinders .030" over, install new pistons and rings, recondition your old rods, deck...
Too many unknowns to yea or nay. The heads i've never heard of, I"m willing to bet they are Chevy heads that have had a valve job done and that's it. You need to know the entire valve train specifics including spring type, push rod and rockers etc...
In fact I'd just pass and buy a Chevy long...
Not necessarily. Cars sitting for a long time can have valve stem seal problems. The seals get old and allow oil to pass down through the guides and into the cylinder.
Using seals made from Viton pretty much cures this problem permanently.
Before ripping the engine out, I would perform both...
Never apply red Locktite where you can't heat the bolt with a propane torch. I am skeptical that any thread locker would hold given the high heat a header bolt is going to be subjected to.
I recommend using Earl's Pressure Master gaskets instead, the graphite seal inserts allow you to put...
I have had excellent results on both my hotrods engines (a SBC and an LT1) with Earl's "Pressure Master" header gaskets with standard header bolts. They use a replaceable graphite insert as the seal.
I've had 0 header bolt loosening issues. The mouse has iron heads and the LT1 heads are of...
OBD II LTx programming is now well understood in the tuner industry. I use LT1 Edit myself. I worked with Jeff Creech at his dyno shop (www.carolinaautomasters.com) over the summer and became quite familure with using a dyno properly as a tuning tool. Jeff is GM PCM wizard, so I got some very...
Well without hard data, there's not a lot I can recommend. I can speculate on some things though, mainly that the power enrichment tables in the PCM are likely wrong.
I suggest you go back on the dyno and get the O2 curves and datalog the PCM data this time. Based on that hard information, we...
Do you have the dyno graph w/the O2 data avialable, that would be very helpful.
Also, using Datamaster or similar to log the pull and see what the timing, MAF and other data looks like would also be very valuable - did you happen to log the PCM data during the pull?
Thanks,
Mako
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