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That is the conclusion I am narrowing down to, indeed. Thanks.

Thanks. But I just had a 1/2 hr drive with that return line clamped and it runs just fine. If my jets were gummed up: 1) I would think the issue would have appeared progressively and not without warning. I would have noticed something. and 2) why would it runs fine with the return line clamped?

Engine idling only if fuel return line to tank is clamped ?!?!?! Car is 1971 454 with Q-jet carburetor. Last weekend, I couldn't drive it: The engine was running very rough, only if I kept it over 2500 rpm or so, and won't idle at all. That was a surprise because I had drove it the week before...

I did check: All spark plugs seem to be firmly connected. I did not unplug them since the last time I drove the car and don't see how they could be cross connected. The routing of the wires look the same as it has always been. Distributor cap does not seem damaged and is fairly clean inside...

Here is where I really need some help: The car has been running fine for years through regular maintenance. This is a 1971 LS5 (454) with a Q-jet. Bought it 12 years ago and never had this problem. I drove the car last weekend and didn't notice anything unusual. The engine would fire up but...

I used to know of a company that offers to treat the inner surface of your existing cast iron manifold with the purpose of speeding the gas flow thus helping the gas and the heat to get out of the engine. Unfortunately, I lost the brochure and forgot the name. Would anyone know of such a service...

Hi! I am looking for a set of detailed drawings showing all XYZ dimensions of a 1971 Corvette frame. Does anyone know where to find such drawings ? In case it matters, the car is a convertible, big block, stick shift.

This is about a 1971 LS5 (454 ci) cooling system. The owner manual says the capacity is 23 qts. I have flushed the system several times, through the lowest point I could find: The fitting just below the lower connection point of the radiator (bottom right). The most I get out of the system, and...

OK. I flushed it this morning, rinsed it 3 times and filled it up again with Dex-Cool (Orange) at 33%. Thanks for the advice.

OK. Clear enough. Looks like I screwed up. I am going to flush it, rinse it, flush it again and refill. What coolant would you recommend to go with ?

Have you checked the fusable link by the starter ?

After changing a hose, I had to refill the cooling system on my 71 toy. I noticed that the coolant that was left in the system was kind of yellow-green (it was very clean, I did not flush the system). I could not recall using any particular type of coolant. The only coolant I had in my garage...

I agree F70-15. Closest available size: 215/70R15. It is true you could easily go with 225/70R15 too. As to 235/70R15, my own experience tought me it depends on: 1) the tire brand and model 2) your vette: they are all different. Handmade also means different from one another, especially when...

I agree with you. Aluminum has less of a good heat transfer compared to copper brass. However, I understand the corrosion factor is slower with Aluminum. I like confirmation of this.

It is so true. I wish I could enjoy the time doing everything myself on my vette like I used to. But I am that kind of guy who works like 12 hours a day 6/7. I keep the remainder of my time for my kids and to rest a little although I relax doing some things myself in the house or on the Vette...

Tom, After gathering more info from different sources including from yourself by e-mail, I have ordered a A69M with the black epoxy coating on your website two days ago, before even reading your reply to this thread. I can't wait to drop it in the car.

Just because I am driving a Big Block in SW Florida by 88-90F (31-32C) at 80%+ humidity and because I have done everything I could to make sure all my original system is clean and fully operational and because everybody driving a BB in Florida is struggling with the very same problem...

I am considering changing my water pump for a High Flow Aluminum Water Pump to improve the cooling of my 1971 Big Block. What manufacturer do you like best; EDELBROCK - Victor Series (Part #8852) or STEWART - Stage 2 (Part #21204) ? Any other suggestion most welcome.

OK From what I could gathered, it looks like I have BE COOL and DEWITT as a first choice, with a preference for BE COOL because of the epoxy. The other brands seem not to offer real direct fit. Thank you all for your help.

I am looking on advices about what vendor/manufacturer to pick for a direct fit aluminum radiator for my 1971 Big Block (454) with Manual Transmission and A/C. I like to get the most cooling capacity without modification of the shroud or anything else. What is the best brand to go with?