4 hole vs open carb spacer

[tonyk72]

I'm looking to get a 1/2" spacer, which is better & why?

http://www.cantonracingproducts.com/phenolic/spacers.html

This would be for my 4150 Holley...

 

[clar2001]

Do you still need to use a thin carb gasket with a phenolic spacer ?

 

[matchframe]

My understanding of the difference between the 4 hole -vs- open spacer, is that the four hole will help improve bottom end performance, while an open spacer will produce more power at higher RPMs. I guess it depends on where you want to improve your power.

Bill

 

[tonyk72]

I assume you do need a thin gasket ( 2 of them) to go with a spacer. Am I wrong?

 

[SwaveDave]

Yes...you still need the two gaskets with a spacer.

Wood is the preferred , with Phenolic second in terms of insulating effectiveness.

 

[tonyk72]

wood vs phelonic

I always thought the phelonic was better than wood...

Anyways, I ordered the open spacer/phelonic and should have it by Monday. BTW, this is the 2nd time I ordered from Canton Racing and they seem pretty good...

 

[SwaveDave]

There probably isnt much difference between teh phenolic and the wood; i would never go with metal like alot of guys have. Ill have a closer look at Canton since you said you like them. Thanks. I hope they have a catalouge they can send me although i guess an online store is good too.

Dave

 

[1BAD80]

If you get an phenolic spacer, make sure that its flat. I found out thru the years when someone complained about breaking a baseplate ear off, they put on a phenolic spacer and easy to over torque. Wood is better for the vacuum signal and heat.
I prefer alumium ones. matchframe is correct on the performance part, I dont think a 1/2" spacer will help except for heat.

 

[tonyk72]

My primary concern was looking to reduce heat...I'll let ya all know if this helps. It's been an ongoing problem for me.

 

[Mako]

My primary concern was looking to reduce heat...I'll let ya all know if this helps. It's been an ongoing problem for me.

I am curious to know how this effects the hood clearanace...

Have you put some clay on the air cleaner lid and shut the hood to verify there is enough room for the spacer when the engine heels over on the mounts?

CYa!
Mako

 

[tonyk72]

I got the spacer yesterday and had problems with the steel fuel lines. The extra 1/2" height seems to make a big difference when working with unbendable lines...what a PITA. I partially stripped the nut going into the Y-block due to the angle...I eventually did some bending and got it to go...

Also, I had to use new longer mounting studs...and am curious as to how these will react being screwed into an aluminum intake once it heats up? I'm unsure of what these studs are made from or what the studs I removed were made from...
I hope they don't expand and crack the manifold or anything...is that possible?

I checked hood clearance again with eveything in place & it seems to fit...haven't cranked the engine yet as I'm still not done yet.

One more thing, I have bronze fuel filters...is there any way I can clean & reuse these things?

Thanks!

 

[1BAD80]

The new studs should be OK. I put mine in finger tight. On the filters I would replace them and add another pre-filter inline, this would also give you a little more line to play with so you don't bend any other line and kink it, it could crack and leak while driving. What type of spacer did you get?
Just take your time, and think things out before doing. If something don't work take a break, think it out then try it again.
Getting frustrated just makes you do things incorrect and cost twice as much to repair. The same things apply to trying to get away cheap. If you have to wait and get the parts when you can afford them. If your not happy with the parts your getting, you WILL replace them and then cost much more.
We have all done that.

 

[Mako]

I got the spacer yesterday and had problems with the steel fuel lines. The extra 1/2" height seems to make a big difference when working with unbendable lines...what a PITA. I partially stripped the nut going into the Y-block due to the angle...I eventually did some bending and got it to go...

1BAD80's advice is sound.

The sintered brass filters can be replaced cheaply enough or soaked in carb cleaner and blown out with compressed air (wear glasses to keep crap out of your eyes).

Plop a wad of clay on the drivers side of the air cleaner nearest the fender at the highest point on the edge and rev the motor with the hood shut to check hood clearance.

CYa!
Mako

 

[tonyk72]

Here's what I learned today...

Paint thinner will dissolve a plastic cup in about 45 seconds...

I dumped the filters in a cup filled with a little paint thinner to remove any built up varnish while at lunch, figuring they would be ready to go by the time I got off work...

The thinner ate the bottom of the plastic cup...
and now I have melted plastic residue stuck in the pores of the filter...so I cut a coke can in 1/2 and tried it again...I left it like that...will see what happens when I get home...

I don't mind getting new filters, it's just that they are a pain to find around here...

 

[Alwyn678]

This is what I have underneath my demon....Keeps fuel from percolating

 

[1BAD80]

You can eliminate them and put on the best inline filter you can afford.

 

[tonyk72]

Why did I EVER think working on my own car would be fun?

This was supposed to be a simple project and has caused me nothing but headaches...It seems as if MY projects always end up much bigger than I first start out due to my lack of exp....It makes it even worse since my car is very original and I go in and mess things up like this! I was actually thinking about trading mine for a non original car so I wouldn't care as much...

So I get everything put back together....start her up and notice I'm leaking fuel big time...right at the Y block and the fuel inlet to the primaries... :bash

I assume my partially stripped thread at the Y block could be the cause there, but I have no idea why it leaks at the other fuel inlet. Eveything was nice an snug...

I was thinking of using some kind of thread sealant...but from what I know that is not the right way to do it... :nono

I called my mechanic and will let him take care of this for me...
I'm thinking I'll probably need a new Y block and possibly a new fuel line from the fuel pump to the Y block...since it doesn't look like I can remove the semi stripped nut from the fuel line (I'll need to buy the whole thing...)

 

[tonyk72]

OK, new 3 piece steel fuel line kit w/ Y block was $45, plus shipping. Install was $80...I would have attempted myself, but I don't wanna mess around with gas and I wanted to ensure it was done right...
The new 1/2" phelonic gasket is on, now I'll sit back and see what happens...I hope it works after all this trouble!

haha, after reading my last post...I can't believe I was thinking of trading in my baby! NEVER!

 

[MaineShark]

Just listen and watch the plugs for signs of detonation. Spacers may require larger jets in the carb to avoid leaning-out... the increased distance from the port lowers the vaccum signal, so the jet needs to be larger to compensate, but I'm not sure if that's the case with a carb that uses and air-valve-secondary instead of venturis.

Joe

 

[tonyk72]

Well, the gas leak is back...new fuel lines & all...used no teflon, lines seem to be real snug...
Also seems like the fatter gasket does no good either...
great! Now I'm back to my original problem + a new one...
will take it back to the shop tomorrow, see what they say...
I don't wanna mess around with this at all, I've read the horror stories and I'm all freaked out

Also, I just noticed the fuel inlet fitting gasket is Nylon...I flipped through Doc Rebuilds catalog and it indicates that their replacement gasket is Metal...
Would that make a difference?