'65 coupe - estate sale

[carefree]

Howdy
First message about a 1965 coupe that our uncle left 8 of us.
We didn't expect this and partially because there were so many
of us, we decided to sell it than argue. However we know little
of it and if I may ask a few questions I (we) would very much
appreciate your advice.
This is what we think we know of the car written by a friend---

Having looked thru the 'vette pictures and have determined the following via my corvette reference books:​

1965 Corvette: 8,186 coupes, 15,376 convertables. Total produced: 23,562-The body appears to have been produced by the St. Lous plantBuilt March 17 1965 and was the 12,608 'vette produced that year.​

Car is equipped with a 365 horse 327 (option L76) with solid lifter cam-approx 20% of the cars produced in '65 were built with this option. Please note that this is a high maintenance engine but very desirable-engine code, block, head, casting numbers as well as many others numbers will all need to be verified along with repective casting dates. In addition, numbers for the transmission, air compressor, carberator, distributior, rear differential etc will need verification. All of these items will need verification to estimate true value. I do suspect that the car is 100% original.​

A few items of note:​

Fulie or 2.02 heads-std for this motor​

Air conditioning (only 227 coupes with L76 engine option were equipped with AC)​

Knockoff wheels​

low mileage?(36,483--pic below) (this can be verified via maintenance reciepts)​

Black-color is the most uncommon of the colors offered for '65​

Vinyl interior (std)​

First year for 4 wheel disc brakes.​

Non power steering​

Non poweer brakes​

Tilt/Tele?​

Teak steering wheel?​

Original ingnition shielding​

Original distributor shielding​

original air cleaner​

original oil filler cap​

limited slip (posi)-needs to be verified but the car is likely equipped this way​

====================​

Questions--​

The car is in North Dakota and had been garaged for years--​

we were unable to find the keys for it until just very recent​

and I am going to there in a couple of weeks to examine it​

and first see if the engine is free (not started-- the concerns of​

not knowing when last time it was run-- what was said was at least 3-4​

years and by someone for 10--​

Is there a corvette club or member to call/contact that I could correspond or​

visit or get to visit and see the car for information/advice/suggestions?​

------------------​

I have seen and read about some beautiful immaculate cars that all of you​

are rightly proud of-- Where in this forum can I find out about vehicles that​

are not pristine?--- how to valuate a car with some rust of the frame-- the paint scratched but no body damage, the windshield cracked, seats torn--​

(not even knowing if it starts)​

(reason is to come to consensus of just selling as is and not know what we​

would get for it and/or one of us buying it if the value is relatively low and​

keep it and eventually restore it.) This car is more than a hobby it would be​

a life style change for most of us.​

I (we) would appreciate your comments and I will try to post a couple of pictures of it (have many)​

Thankyou-​

Eddy (and 7 more)​

 

[gord holden]

65 coupe

the most important thing to find out is how bad is rust on frame.before a price could be established.

 

[carefree]

the most important thing to find out is how bad is rust on frame.before a price could be established.

Howdy,
Rust on the frame - the pictures below show
what we are told and some saw- there are rust spotted on the frame -that is- we understand the frame is solid but has rust on it--
but is one of things I will see and notate--
in fact what would be the proper way of saying or portraying rust on the frame
rather than rusted through if that is as what we are told?

Thankyou,
E&D&A&C&T&D&D&M

 

[67HEAVEN]

Welcome to the forum.

Although the ultimate goal is to sell the car, I'm going to move this thread into the C2 Section. Why? Because there is far more than just a sale involved here and you'll get a great deal more help when more people see it and discuss it.

Again -- welcome.

 

[Tom Bryant]

Looks like just rust from a damp storage area not rust through. If it's solid it is a great project car. Is there a teakwood steering wheel under that cover?

Tom

 

[carefree]

Looks like just rust from a damp storage area not rust through. If it's solid it is a great project car. Is there a teakwood steering wheel under that cover?

Tom

Thanks for answering-
Unknown about the steering wheel-(will put that on the list- assumuption that the vette had come with it was from our friend who had the books and knew something of them) --my uncle (was in the Air Force) bought this a few months after another pilot had bought it new way back.....


Sorry for an elementary (ok-stupid) question--looking at the picture attached, the glove box has not been opened since
our uncle passed away (he was single and retired from the service- that is why we were surprised by having this willed to all of us--didn't see much of him),
does the ignition key open the glove box? (the ignition key was recently
found -smaller than we thought, just had GM on it -- I believe one of the cousins tried to open
it but couldn't with the key--that's why I ask-especially if there is important
paperwork in there)

under the glove box are two metal id labels
the left one says
H17
style 65437
trim STD
body S(or a 5)2315
paint 900AA

right one is the serial number - (should this be shown here?-- I will if most do)
(2nd picture--) there will be a long list of getting numbers from engine and other places from reading you guys--- starting to make a list- have the engine number somewhere- we were told to find that.
Is there codes to let someone know that was a teakwood steering wheel?

Thank you for letting us ask questions-- and as this proceeds I will remove
these pictures in order to put others-- I noticed the limit.

 

[carefree]

Welcome to the forum.

Although the ultimate goal is to sell the car, I'm going to move this thread into the C2 Section. Why? Because there is far more than just a sale involved here and you'll get a great deal more help when more people see it and discuss it.

Again -- welcome.

Thank you for the welcome-- like I pointed out once enough questions
are answered to satisfy a general sense of value-- that would determine
if one of us retains it (and that would get interesting) or we agree to sell which is our main thought.
Getting apprasials or advice would be easy in Seattle but not in North Dakota--
even getting parts or supplies for just attempting to start or turn the motor
will probably done here --- any suggestions or tips or areas of this great forum you all could point for me are greatly welcomed and appreciated-
Eddy and all.

 

[67HEAVEN]

...does the ignition key open the glove box?

No. There is a separate key that also opens the lock on the spare tire compartment out back. Often, that lock housing is missing entirely on these cars.

under the glove box are two metal id labels
the left one says
H17
style 65437
trim STD
body S(or a 5)2315
paint 900AA

right one is the serial number - (should this be shown here?-- I will if most do)

H17 - car was built on April 17th, 1965 (assuming H refers to April for 1965 model year)
style 65437 - 1965 coupe (rather than convertible 467)
trim STD - interior is black vinyl
body S2315 - body built in St. Louis (number is sequentional and does not relate to VIN)
paint 900AA - Tuxedo Black

Most don't show the VIN plate. Each person has his/her own reasons.

Maybe this link will be some more help.
http://www.100megsfree4.com/corvette/1960/vet65.htm

Good luck and keep asking questions.

 

[LarryFlew]

RE: Corvette clubs in ND. There is only one registered club in ND and that is in Bismark. Unless the car happens to be in Bismark it may not be of any help to you. In case it is their web address is www.idavette.net/clubs/codt.htm

Good luck, sounds like a great project car for someone.

Larry/MN

 

[jerrybramlett]

If you sell, you're going to find that there is a lot of price compression in the old Corvette market.

You can probably get $25,000 for this car as-is, where-is, if it has a clear title, the original engine block, and a very solid frame. Or, you could spend several weeks of labor and $5,000 getting it clean, running good, everything working, and transported to a major city. After that you could expect to get maybe $30,000 for it. Or you could spend about $25,000 getting a frame-on restoration done and then sell it for about $45,000.

I know it sounds crazy, but I believe it has always been the case. Dirty, non-running estate cars sell for as much or more than running project cars. Maybe folks figure they're going to have to restore them anyway. Or, maybe they're willing to gamble that the car might be better then it appears. I know for darn sure everyone underestimates the time and cost of major repairs. Including me.

 

[vref]

If you sell, you're going to find that there is a lot of price compression in the old Corvette market.

You can probably get $25,000 for this car as-is, where-is, if it has a clear title, the original engine block, and a very solid frame. Or, you could spend several weeks of labor and $5,000 getting it clean, running good, everything working, and transported to a major city. After that you could expect to get maybe $30,000 for it. Or you could spend about $25,000 getting a frame-on restoration done and then sell it for about $45,000.

I know it sounds crazy, but I believe it has always been the case. Dirty, non-running estate cars sell for as much or more than running project cars. Maybe folks figure they're going to have to restore them anyway. Or, maybe they're willing to gamble that the car might be better then it appears. I know for darn sure everyone underestimates the time and cost of major repairs. Including me.

Jerry

What do you think the same car would be worth if it was a roadster?

 

[67HEAVEN]

Welcome aboard vref.

Tell us all about yourself and your car.

 

[vref]

Welcome aboard vref.

Tell us all about yourself and your car.

Thanks

Its a 65 roadster 327/350 hp white/blk disc brakes all around, no A/C, power steering. 1 4brl, 2.1 dual exahust, hydraulic lifters.
2 rear ends 373 and original rear end. removable hard top, soft top, 38000 original miles, original owner bought it new in 1965. original manuals protecto plate, most stuff. corvette lapel pin. knock off wheels. white stripe radials. 4 speed close ratio transmission.

It has not been repainted good shape for the age, no accidents, runs fine, its showing signs of age cloudy instrument panel gauges, chrome plating coming off dashboard. little rust on the door hinge, seats cracks. stuff like that, nothing major.

Trying to get an idea of what its worth.

 

[Tom Bryant]

Welcome to the CAC. Good origional cars are getting harder to find all the time. Just a guess but on the open market with all that documentation and sound origional condition probably mid to upper 20s. It could be worth much more to the right person seeking an honest unmolested car to preserve or restore. To me it would be priceless because it would not be for sale. I would lean more towards the preservation path with this car.

Tom

 

[jerrybramlett]

I agree with Tom.

Convertibles are much easier to sell than coupes. However, that particular coupe has factory air, factory solid lifters, and a factory black exterior. Those options add quite a bit to the value.

If your convertible has KH knock-offs rather than reproductions, I would think you could get around $30,000 for it regardless of the cosmetic age marks you mentioned. Original paint is a big plus in my book.

By a "little rust on the door hinge", do you mean the birdcage is rusty? That would be a big factor for resale.

 

[wiscane]

I may be wrong .... but looking at the lines to the carb and misc. items... this looks like a 327 --300HP. The maifold shows a lot of oil etc... is it caste iron or aluminum? Have you checked the engine numbers?? ...Ed

 

[ctjackster]

I may be wrong .... but looking at the lines to the carb and misc. items... this looks like a 327 --300HP. The maifold shows a lot of oil etc... is it caste iron or aluminum? Have you checked the engine numbers?? ...Ed

his engine shows a correct L76 set-up for 65 - proper finned valve covers, proper fuel line & filter & choke tube orientation, alt over to the D-side because of A/C, proper air cleaner cover, proper ign shielding, proper chrome oil fill cap . . . . but hell yeah that's a healthy dose of oilly (?) or fuel (?) -grime around the intake manifold, esp. for a low miles car, but the car IS 40 years old, after all . . . .

 

[Tom Bryant]

I agree on the proper 365 pieces. I was suprised to see the correct air cleaner. Seems like a lot of those were MIA on these cars. The GF90 goes right with the other stuff in the photo. I'd be suprised if this car isn't mostly the right parts..

 

[Rodney Pruet]

I bought a 66 coupe last summer that was an estate sale. It had 100,600 original miles. The lady that owned it had purchased it from her son-in-law in 1968 and he bought it used in 1966. Its a 327/300 Hp , w air,ps,pb,pw teak tele wheel, original interior in great shape, no flaws. The front carpet had been replaced. Car runs great, no smoking, has the original 4 speed shifter, all gauges work, radio clock etc. It also came with work orders that had been done since 1976. Car had been well maintained. I gave 25,000 for it. All ignition chrome pieces are present except the ones covering the plugs. Noland Adams had appraised it for 30-35,000.

 

[carefree]

RE: Corvette clubs in ND. There is only one registered club in ND and that is in Bismark. Unless the car happens to be in Bismark it may not be of any help to you. In case it is their web address is www.idavette.net/clubs/codt.htm

Good luck, sounds like a great project car for someone.

Larry/MN

Thanks Larry-- I tried the another link that one of the cousins found but it
didn't work--

I just got to my uncles place in ND--- and will have to go to Bismarck for other
biz and hopefully visit the chevy dealer---

looked at the vette-- pretty car- we gave it a bath yesterday and was
surprised at how nice it cleaned up-- still some road chips and one spot
of the chrome bubbled at first glance is all is wrong with the body---

solved the glove box problem without fixing the stuck lock- underside of the
glove box and at the hinge is three screws-- take them out and the glove box
cover opens and inside was (I am not kidding) a brand new pair of driving gloves -- some owner manuals and reciepts -- one of which was a muffler
change in 1980 at midas muffler in phoenix for 70 bucks a piece-- thinking
that mufflers should be checked for mice I inquired about current prices and
got shy of 200 dollars--

interesting history--
first of all we were not close to my uncle -- he was in the Air Force and retired in 1980--(didn't know that till now) and lived in Phoenix area for
many years-- moved to ND to take care of family ranch-- and the neighbors
tell us he did not drive the car from 1980 on-- just started it ever so often and changed oil--- wow. there is a oil and lube sticker from a service station
from phoenix that has the same mileage in 1980 as it does today-- my uncle
quit caring for the car in the mid 1990's (and many other things) due to cancer......very sad we didn't visit or know him -- now this thing is getting
us acquainted to people that we are related and those around him and they
are a wonderful kind breed rarely seen especially from being from big cities (most of us)

there is more history--- and why I wrote it--- once we see if the wiring is good and if there were mice (this was in a ranch) - indication of at least one area on the top of the inside hood and one door post- and do some simple
engine maintenance (plugs, filter, oil) -- should we start it --- or try to--
or leave it unstarted for fear of scoring and sticking especially now we know its not been run for years--we are undecided about keeping or selling or the issue of joint ownership which may force us to sell---

sorry for the long note-- connections here are slow and there is no telephone
out in the ranch-- so I (if I may)ask a mess of questions at once and then go
and fetch them when I can get on line-- also pictures are hard ot upload when connections are slow--hopefully in Bismarck I can find a place with higher speed for some nice pictures--
and the fella that asked if that was a real teakwood steering wheel -the answer is yes and looks brand new --beautiful shine
questions--

transmission numbers--
I found a tag bolted on the side that reads 385758-- is this the serial number or where would the casting/ id numbers be--
did read other threads where frame rail numbers are.

time to go and will continue-- thanks for all responses.