68 front rotor removal??

[jims427400]

What is the best way to remove the rivots from the original rotors??
The rears were already removed.
Do I grind or chisel??

Jim

 

[bradfordsvettes]

drilling would be the best bet with the neatest out come IMHO Steve

 

[68Roadster]

dril hole in center the size of the rivet, just enuff to get below head level and then chisel head off.....will leave rivet hole undamaged....good luck!

 

[jims427400]

Thanks for another solution..

 

[GTR1999]

You're going to want to check the runout in the new rotors and don't rely on using the lug nuts to hold it on. the runout will change everytime you replace the wheel. Tap the rvet holes 3/8-24 and use flat heads to bolt the rotors on. Then you can check the runout and shim to get it under .002"

 

[jims427400]

Good point..I've never heard of that before. Anyone else try this idea..
Drilling of the rivets worked great.

What do you mean by the runout changing every time wheels get replased??

Thanks all..

 

[GTR1999]

If you use the lug nuts only as many do the runout will change as the bolts are torqued. I measured this a few times and depending on the particular rotor/spindle will change a few thousands or more. Since you want to dial these in to under .002 that approach just isn't a good option. Like I said I see it all the time but it comes down to how you want your car to be.

If you visit the other vette forums I use the same handle and there are more posts with pictures there.

Here is a front rotor I dialed in with bolted on rotors.

 

[Art Jett]

What if the rotors don't have rivet holes?

 

[Vettehead Mikey]

Then install them using the lugnuts to check the runout and don't worry about it.

GTR's approach is certainly professional and can be considered 'belts and suspenders', but not mandatory.

 

[Art Jett]

That's where I was already but I like to be thourogh. I would hate to think I took a shortcut.

 

[GTR1999]

The aftermarket rotors with slots and holes usually don't have the rivet holes in them. I have set them up as well and was faced with either dialing them in with the lug nuts or machining a bolt hole pattern in them. The required amount of time to do the holes wasn't worth it so they were dialed in to .000-.002 but I know this runout changes with every wheel change. I measured up to .005 change using lug nuts alone but it does vary with every job. Check yours and see if it changes much as you tighen the rotor and then loosen and re-torque.

The rotors were riveted for a good reason all those years ago.

Good luck with a little time you'll get it done.

 

[Art Jett]

Thanks all. Gary-I know what you mean about the time and trouble to machine bolt holes in them. It would be really time consuming! I'll run the car for a while (as soon as I get the chance, I'll finish it someday) and check the runout again. If it changes drastically, I'll take the time and machine the holes. Till then I'll hope for the best. Art