6spd AK47 (help my clutch)

[AnytownUSA]

I have a clutch-ish issue. I just found how to get the ECU from above the reservoir so I have not checked the fluid level yet. But the more I read, the more I think my trouble is not the same as previously discussed. Past posts have been on not having enough pedal or the clutch not disengaging all the way. My clutch performs as usual so I don’t think my fluid is the culprit. My problem comes when I press the pedal all the way in. Everything is fine until I have about 1.0 to 1.5 inches of travel left, after that it sounds like a machine gun going off under my hood. Hot, cold, wet, dry, sitting, rolling, all the same. It’s a 94, 73k miles. Any help would be appreciated - I don’t even know enough to pose an adequate question!

As a side note, one thing I love about this community is that most every thread gets a response. I have recently posted a couple of questions on a Jeep page concerning trouble codes and radio wiring of my Cherokee. Both posts have been up about a week with several views and no help offered – not even an encouraging bump. I really do appreciate the environment here on the CAC, consequently I always help if I can – which isn’t all that often but I make an effort.

 

[74bigblock]

Sounds like you may have a bad throw out bearing. I'm not familiar with your trans, but thats a rough guess from a putz like me!


Good luck with your troubles. -Dave

 

[Vettelt193]

Sounds like you may have a bad throw out bearing. I'm not familiar with your trans, but thats a rough guess from a putz like me!


Good luck with your troubles. -Dave

yep, I concur... bad throw-out bearing.

If you hold the clutch down while at a stop light, instead of putting the car in neutral, you will vastly shorten the life of the bearing.

 

[Jack]

My clutch performs as usual so I don’t think my fluid is the culprit. My problem comes when I press the pedal all the way in. Everything is fine until I have about 1.0 to 1.5 inches of travel left, after that it sounds like a machine gun going off under my hood. Hot, cold, wet, dry, sitting, rolling, all the same.

Like the others said ... sounds like a throw out bearing to me too.
JACK:gap

 

[AnytownUSA]

I have a tranny guy at church that I asked last night about this. He has proposed one of the springs coming loose from the pressure plate and rattling against the case. Now I know this guy is good, and he really emphasizes the troublehshooting/"think before you act" discipline, but I have never heard of this.

I mention that to ask this, what type of hardware should I have on hand if I decide to do this work? Pressure plate, throwout bearing, those I’d get because they have been mentioned. I can always return what I don’t need, but what else preventative should I go ahead and fix. With 73k miles, should put in a new clutch disc? Should I rebuild the slave and master cylinders? I know I don’t have to open the tranny to do those two but as long as I’m there…

And I don’t have a lift. How do you guys get the car up high enough to get the tranny out? Can you work on it under the car on jack stands? This will decide whether I can do it myself or not. That and the requirement of special tools that is. Thanks for your advice thus far.

Of course, if the cost of someone else doing the repair is close to the cost of a lift, maybe I can talk the little lady into a lift!

 

[74bigblock]

I don't think a spring would make the noise you are speaking of... and it would do it all the time if it were hanging down.

If you are at 73K with the original fly wheel and clutch plates... I would just do a whole kit as preventative. You'd need to do it soon anyway... that's a lot of miles on a clutch.
You should check out www.dialaclutch.com. They have the best prices around and will include the entire clutch kit... Should be about 400$ for your year. You may need your fly wheel re-surfaced, or consider a new one... but that is more cost.

 

[Hrtbeat1]

My '79 K5 Blazer did something similar but IIRC it was a spring on the clutch disk. Could be a different setup ... my Vette is an auto. I've removed my tranny using jackstands so I would think a std. would be easier. The C-beam is a big PITA. Wear gloves when handling it also ... ask how I know ... greasy sharp objects slice nicely.

 

[AnytownUSA]

Maybe I need a bigger jack/stand combo. Mine set is the low buck, what 2 ton? The small generic set from Walmart. I'll have to measure and see how far up in the air I can get it with what I have. I figure I'll need at least 18" clear under the car to move the ZF out right?

Hrtbeat1, I hear you on the gloves, thanks for the heads up. I usually learn that too late as well.

74bb, how will I know if my flywheel needs resurfacing/replacing?

It sounds like this job will be several weeks out as I build up money and bring in parts. Will it do any further damage to drive it occasionally? I haven’t been driving it much lately, just once a week or so to keep it loose. Maybe I should just let it sit until I fix it?

Thanks for the information guys, this will be the first work outside of maintenance I’ve had to do on the vette. I’m actually kind of excited – if I don’t end up getting in over my head! Nah, this can't be that bad.

 

[WhalePirot]

I like to put some of my savings from doiung work into better tools. In your case, I strongly recommend getting some quality jack stands. I have a few sets and the cheapies threateh my car and my life. I'd rather not, not hear from you again, 'cause your car fell on you while wrestling with the heavy tranny and the heavy lugging you will have to do onthe componentry.

I would save the master/slave or another time, as it seems to be working and you will have plenty to do. Smaller bites?

Do you have a clutch aligning tool?

This is hardly rocket science but a decent home mechanic can do it. The spaces for your hands are tight on this, and most places on a Corvette.

 

[74bigblock]

Basically it will need resurfacing. It shouldn't be very expensive... $30-40 at a local shop, and really just has a few bolts that hold it on. You should always resurface or replace when doing a clutch.... it would be like getting new brake pads on 73K rotors and not having them spun. Make sure the shop measures the flywheel and compares it to GM Spec. Like brake rotors, if there isn't enough material for it to be safe, you will need to get a new one.

Also, You will need a pilot bearing puller. You can rent them from Autozone for free... you just have to give them a deposit and bring it back. The clutch alignment tool comes with the kit. It's just a fake spline made from ABS plastic. You could use a broom handle. I STRONGLY recommend you buy the kit. It is much less expensive than peiceing it together. Save up and buy it... or put it on your wife's credit card!

IMHO, I would not drive your car. If the T/O bearing is falling apart you could do major damage in your trans. This assumes the issue is the T/O bearing. It could be something else too... Better safe than sorry.

 

[96CERon]

Same problem

AT about 50K miles my 96CE started making what I think is the same noise, when you pushed the clutch all the way down. Pulled the transmission back and out fell the flanged locking hex "bolt" that secures the fork piviot ball which is threaded from engine side of the bell housing. What happens is the lock comes loose and the pivot ball uncrews itself toward the engine causing the fork to come in contact with the rotating pressure plate since the fork moves forward on the left side of the pivot. Pull the trans back about 6" use a hex wrench to retighen the piviot and reinstall the lock with a drop of locktite. One drop on the pivot ball thread would also be good. Don't ask why one drop!

 

[AnytownUSA]

Whalepirot: I've got good jackstands, I bought some 3 tons extra - after all who can work with just two jackstands? Also, I'm getting used to the small hands syndrome. All my vehicles are 94 or newer and the newer they get the tighter they get!

96CERon: I guess I'll find out what the problem really is when I crack it open. Which, since it is recommended that I do not drive it, may end up being this weekend or next. Did you do anything else when you found the bolt loose? I guess with 73k on the clock, I'll go through the exercises prescribed just as a preventative

74bb: I did the wife's credit card/tool loan thing with my torque wrench. It was brand-new-into-the-store/never-been-used and I got it loaned to me by charging the little lady's card. She got upset but when I told her I "borrowed" it and would return it when I was done with it she was okay. I just haven't gotten done with it yet and she has forgotten about it. I guess I'll do the same thing with the clutch kit. Even if that reminds her of the the torque wrench..."I'll take it all back when I'm done dear, after all I have to use the torque wrench to put everything back together."

I appreciate all the help and I'll be asking more questions all the way through this I'm sure. You guys are great.

 

[96CERon]

Replaced Dual mass flywheel and clutch

Since I was that far into it to fix the pivot. I replaced the B.S. dual mass flywheel with a Fidanza flywheel and a Stage II clutch assy. The lack of knowledge of the suppliers and the methods to do this was aggravating. If you want to know more let me know. I know how to do it now and the trade offs with respect to the increased transmission rattle/resonance and performance.