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70 LT1 Roadster - How To Tell a Fake?



70 LT1 Roadster

I am looking at purchasing an '70 LT1 Roadster. The car looks to be real and all original except for side exhaust that was added. I'm not sure how to confirm the car is actuall an LT1. Can someone help me?

Also, The asking price is $32K. The car is somewhere is probably a 3. Is this reasonable?

Thanks in advance.
Jun 5, 2001
Northern Virginia
71 Conv. (Sold) / 98 Pewter Coupe (Sold)
Hi Jeffro!

First of all, welcome to the Corvette Action Center. Second, I applaud you on your quest for an LT-1 - those are nice and quite unique.

Now for specific info on how to tell a fake, Chevy didn't really leave a lot of evidence in 70 (and 71) so the telltale sighns are small. I assume you're avoiding 72 due to the slightly reduced compression but in 72 Chevy decided to make it easy by putting the engine codes in the VIN.

Since I am unaware of how much you already know about the LT-1, I'll assume nothing and fill you in on everything I know.

Tachometer - The tach on an LT-1 does not have the standard 5500 redline as the other 350's do, instead it has either a 6000 or 6500 redline (I can't recll which).

Carb. - Holley model #3972123 instead of the Q-Jet

LT-1's were the only 70 small blocks that had the AIR system for emissions control.

I'm almost certain that all LT-1's had transistorized ignition.

Aluminum intake manifold and valve covers.

Open element 14" air cleaner.

All of the above can be easily faked but I have heard of some variations that can tell the fake from the real ones but I am uneducated on these. Hopefully an LT-1 owner will come to your assistance.

Sorry I can't be of more help. You're doing the right thing though since I have heard of lots of people finding out they made a $10,000 mistake buying a fake.

Good luck!


Jeffro; In addition to what Eric has posted I will add the following:

1). Assuming the org. engine still resides in the car the LT-1 engine codes could read: CTK, OR CTV. The last code being for the ZR-1.

2). Distributor number: 1111491

3). Alternator #: 1100884

4). The I.D. tag on the center console should reflect the LT-1 engine, but that is easily replaced.

5). Most likely there will be a M-21 4-speed & 3.70 rear axle. No automatic tranny avail w/ LT-1 option.

6). Exhaust manifold #'s: 3872765 (LH), 3932461 (RH).

7). Open elemen air cleaner, finned aluminum valve covers, big block style hood with LT-1 striping and lettering.

I would also check to see if any recovered documention exists I.E. Tank Sticker. As far as the 32K cost goes, there recently was a listing for a '70 LT-1 ( I think convert) for 21K O.B.O. Possible could check seattletimes.com (newspaper) for the listing.

Hope this helps as well.


Robert N

It will be impossible to tell a real 1970 LT-1 from a fake, as all of the parts are replaceable. Only the build sheet or other documentation will verify this. The price is ghreat for a fully restored, full #'s matching or survivor. They will sell for up to $40K.

Just because many parts are missing means nothing. Found mine without the proper ignition, A.I.R. system, valve covers, air cleaner, etc.

The tach is a 6500 red line and there should be no fuel return line.


I bought it.

First of all, I would like to thank everyone for their comments. I by checking everything on the car take I could I felt pretty confident that the car was real.

I'm no the proud owner of a '70 LT1 Conv. for much less than the $32K selling price.


70 LT-1 convert

How about some specs. Color, interior, options, etc.
Also, there are several great registries you can list your vette.
the LT-1 registry.
Good Luck,


Sep 19, 2001
Westport, CT.
'70 LT1 conv't; '99 6-speed coupe
CONGRATS. I too just purchased a '70 LT1 conv't. with the help of ncrs and the tech & judging manual, it's real and registered.

now, please read my latest question on the forum about my coolant leak, or overflow...

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