71 manual transmission

[jim coulter]

Can anyone tell me if you can remove the 4-speed manual transmission from a 71 with a 454 without removing the engine. I'm hearing a funny tapping noise, kinda like something metal tapping a piece of tin. It appears to be coming from the bell housing(but you know how sound can travel through metal-could be coming from anywhere). Going to look tomorrow, but had plans to replace clutch and pressure plate and bell housing this year, just might be sooner than later. thanks for your help

 

[Ala75Vette]

I just got through doing this (replacing clutch) on my 75 350 4-speed. Yes, you can remove the tranny without pulling the engine. Yes, it's a PITA. You may want to browse this thread: http://corvetteactioncenter.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=18716&highlight=clutch+replace My biggest PITA was reinstalling the shifter assembly. The shop manual for my year car didn't say anything about needing an 'alignment tool' for adjusting the shifter. Thank God I had a Hanes manual (and a mechanic brother-in-law), or I'd still be wondering why it wouldn't shift right (although, that said, all I'd have to do is come to this forum to get straightened out). Best of luck.... it's really not that bad a repair to tackle, IMHO.

 

[jim coulter]

Thanks Ala7Vette. That was a good link. Thy mentioned "clutch chatter" and maybe thats what I'm hearing. Sounds kinda like a rocker arm tapping the valve cover, except its coming from down low. Hard to tell if its the tranny or motor, but going to remove oil pan and inspection cover on bellhousing this morning, maybe I'll find what it is. Thanks for the info, its good to know the motor doesn't have to come out. Thanks again.

 

[jim coulter]

What does a "clutch clatter" sound like.My noise sounds like a rocker hitting a valve cover,but I removed the covers and it still there. Checked adjustment on all rockers and they are o.k. Checked compression, all cylinders healthy (jumps to 120,150,180 on all) Decided to pull intake, heads, and oil pan and look and see if I could physically see anything wrong, and I see nothing. Took cover off front of bellhousing, but can't see much in there. Sounded like it was in bellhousing from in cab, outside car on drivers side sounded like it was from back of engine down low, so could be engine or bellhousing. I have mechanical cam, but that sounds like a sewing machine running.(nice kinda sound) This is kinda like that, but louder and not as frequent(not a nice kinda sound)Would like to put engine back together before dark, but was hoping some people might have some ideas before I started to reassemble the engine. thanks

 

[Ala75Vette]

Well, hopefully you'll get some other opinions besides just mine, but from what you're describing it very well could be clutch chatter. Before I replaced my clutch I had no chatter; afterwards, under just the right conditions (speed/torque) I get a little, but not enough to bother me (it's very transient). We were very careful to torque down my new pressure plate according to specs, so I'm not sure what I would need to do to fix mine (but then, I still consider myself, though somewhat experienced, still a novice compared to many of our more experienced forum members). My clutch chatter is a clicking sound, metal on metal, much like you've described. Not real loud, but noticeable, coming from where the bell housing is under the car.

 

[jim coulter]

When you turn the engine over you dont hear it, but as soon as it starts you hear it. Problem is I hear it when the clutch pedal is depressed and when I release it with transmission in nuetral. Really thought I'd find something in the bottom end instead. Thanks for the help.

 

[69MyWay]

Is there any chance you have some loose exhaust manifold bolts, or cracked exhaust/headers?

Does anything change the noise....ie, different RPM, under a load, hot/cold engine?

Is it running bad in anyway?....skipping, backfiring, missing, etc?

 

[GaryS]

Try this simple test. Jack the front of your car up, put it on quality jack stands, and then block the rear wheels. Have a trusted friend climb in the driver's seat and start up the car. If you feel comfortable, crawl underneith the front of the car and listen for the sound. A down lown sound may be main bearings. Place a large screwdriver against the oil pan and the handle end against your ear. This acts like a stethoscope and may allow you to pin point the problem. If you don't hear a problem there, put the screw driver against the bell housing.

The most unnerving part is climbing under the car with it running. I have done this only a couple of times but I take extra precautions like using jack stands as primary and my floor jack as a secondary method of stabilizing the car. Just make sure your trusted friend communicates well.

It is funny that the 71 manual doesn't mention your linkage alignment tool. I have one I made from measurements in my 66 Service Manual. I do believe that they put it back in the 72 adn 73 manuals.
Gary

 

[jim coulter]

All the exhuast, headers and collectors were tight. Ran good just had a tapping sound like something tapping a piece of tin. The car is already on jacks(still haven't put the front sway bar back in) but its too late for the screwdriver trick. Already have removed the intake, heads , and oil pan(not removed just hanging, would have to remove what I think is called the relay rod to remove altogether, just put it all back together) Do not see anything wrong. Will probably put it back together tomorrow.(One of the hose piece is loose on the heater core, so I'm hoping the plumbers will be at work tomorrow to reweld it (re-solder maybe)Its easier to put the heater box back together with the head off.