71 Won't Start

[KevinBelcher]

Hi all

I'm having an electrical problem with my 71 and the battery keeps getting drained. Story is as follows:

I purchased the 71 454 convertible in August of 03. After a year of prep for the Woodward Cruise, I tried to start my car the morning of the cruise and only got a click... Purchased a new battery becase the other one was several years old already. Still Click... pulled the ground cables. Clean and filed them. Still Click...

After I say a few words of disappointment (if you can emagine), I put my stuff in the 03 and went to the cruise. But to this day I still can't get the issue resolved.

The car starts with a jump or a charged battery overnight.

While the car is running, my multimeter shows the battery is getting 14.25 volts of charge. Seems the alternator is working as it should.

The only item that runs while the car is sitting is the clock. I did a batery load test and find that with the clock running, it draws 15 mA. I found this to be odd but though that was the issue. I left the fuse out for the clock and the draw is .80 mA. Seems to be in line.

Left car sit for 24 hours and tried to start it. Click...

I next pulled each fuse 1 at a time and checked. Still draws .80 mA after each and all fuses are out.

Left it for 24 hours and it started fine.

Waited another 24 hours (just becase I was busy) and tried to start. Got my favorite tune Click...

Any ideas? I'm lost from here. Starter?

Kevin

 

[Red69]

You say you checked the ground cables but not specifically the engine ground cable on the passenger side. It is near the motor mount on that side and has a black wire sheath. I mention it as mine came loose and caused me a few hours of head scratching and new battery and starter before finding it. It is the simple things that get you sometimes.

 

[KevinBelcher]

Thanks for the reply. I did pull that ground as well. Cleaned it and the frame/block and reinstalled.

Good idea but just didn't seem to correct the issue.

Thanks again.

 

[MMM]

If it is parasitic drain, then only a trace through the system can help. But two other simple things.
First check the tension on the alternator belt. If it is slipping you will still read good voltage but not produce enough amperage to recharge the battery. I went through the exact same symptoms with a '71 Monte Carlo once. Replaced the battery, checked the circuits and grounds and ended up only needing to replace the alternator belt. Learned a valuable lesson; always check the belt first.
Second, if you can try bypassing the solenoid after you hear the click. In the old days where the posts were acceptable you could do this with a large screwdriver. Of course it thru sparks all over and burnt the end off of the screwdriver, but if the engine turns over this way, then you have a large voltage drop through the solenoid which means replacement.
During my impoverished college student days I kept a screwdriver in the car for this purpose only. Those $5 rebuilt Pep Boys solenoids didn't last too long!
Mike

 

[KevinBelcher]

Thanks Mike. I will try both of these this weekend.

Now that you mention the screwdriver and solenoid, I remember the good old days of using this to get my Pinto running. At this point, it is worth a try.

Thanks again!

 

[GTR1999]

I had this happen once and it was the wiper door circuit. If the door was left open it would drain down the battery. Did you try using a meter or test light inline between the (-) post and cable end with the ign off? If the light is on or you read voltage then there is a drain. Pull each fuse out until you find the circuit that turns off the light. check into that circuit. Do you use a battery disconnect switch?

 

[Christian]

Have you checked the fusable link by the starter ?

 

[wishuwerehere82]

Kevin,

As a former Pinto owner myself, I would suspect the solonoid is either sticking or has a bad contact. it's not too hard to pull the starter and with the removal of a few screws, to take the starter apart and check it out.
The contacts can be cleaned up with some emery cloth if it's not too badly pitted and you should re-grease the bendix drive on the motor shaft. Cheap fix, and if it still doesn't work, then start at the battery and go through all the connections. It could be a bad starter relay, but I doubt it, since it does click.
Can you believe you ever drove a Pinto? Me neither.
I used to be called "Pinto Pete".

 

[sherry_ridgeway]

hi kevin
I have the same problem with my 93 ford pickup, it just goes "click" when i try to start it, I did a lot of the above to correct it but none of them helped, have you tried just a country approach? I found that tapping the starter with a stick or somenthing works ,it could be the bendix in the starter or the solenoid spring isnt retracting correctly, I also tried cleaning out the relay on the firewall etc, but the stick seems to work the best so I just do that, Im glad my vette doesnt need a good smack to start, If ya find out what the problem is PLEASE let me know ok?
Sherry

 

[KevinBelcher]

I had this happen once and it was the wiper door circuit. If the door was left open it would drain down the battery. Did you try using a meter or test light inline between the (-) post and cable end with the ign off? If the light is on or you read voltage then there is a drain. Pull each fuse out until you find the circuit that turns off the light. check into that circuit. Do you use a battery disconnect switch?

The wiper door is a thought, but as far as I know it wasn't open.

I did try the meter test with the ign off. It draws .80 mA with all fuse in or out. I pulled one at a time and found that .80 mA was the norm, even with all fuses out.

Thanks for the reply.

 

[KevinBelcher]

Have you checked the fusable link by the starter ?

Thanks for your reply. No... not sure where it is located? Inside the car our by the starter?

I'm leaning toward the starter as the issue. Over the weekend I left the fully charged battery discounnected and when I rehooked it up on Sunday to try and start it, I got the Click...

Any suggestions would be appreciated.

 

[KevinBelcher]

Kevin,

As a former Pinto owner myself, I would suspect the solonoid is either sticking or has a bad contact. it's not too hard to pull the starter and with the removal of a few screws, to take the starter apart and check it out.
The contacts can be cleaned up with some emery cloth if it's not too badly pitted and you should re-grease the bendix drive on the motor shaft. Cheap fix, and if it still doesn't work, then start at the battery and go through all the connections. It could be a bad starter relay, but I doubt it, since it does click.
Can you believe you ever drove a Pinto? Me neither.
I used to be called "Pinto Pete".

Thanks for the reply. I like your suggeestion since I left the battery discounnected over the wekend, reconnected and tried to start it, and still get the click. The only concern is that the lights all dim or go out when this all happends. Like the system is getting drained all at once. It may be the starter?

As for the Pinto... those days are gone for good (thank God). I did race it and had a 302 in it. Made it a little more fun!

 

[MMM]

The fusible link is like any other fuse, either it is a solid connection or it is blown (open). So the starter would not work sometimes and then work later. It just would not work at all.
It is either the starter or the solenoid or both. The copper contacts in a GM solenoid have hardened surfaces and filing or sanding to clean up creates a temporary fix. The contacts will again get damaged by the current arc, only this time very quickly.
I agree with some others, replace the starter and the solenoid. Get a new starter and solenoid if possible and make sure it is the proper starter for the big block. The cheap rebuilt stuff that is out there today is not worth the effort to install. I have seen those parts fail within days of installation. If new is not available or too expensive, get the highest quailty rebuild you can find.

Mike

 

[KevinBelcher]

hi kevin
I have the same problem with my 93 ford pickup, it just goes "click" when i try to start it, I did a lot of the above to correct it but none of them helped, have you tried just a country approach? I found that tapping the starter with a stick or somenthing works ,it could be the bendix in the starter or the solenoid spring isnt retracting correctly, I also tried cleaning out the relay on the firewall etc, but the stick seems to work the best so I just do that, Im glad my vette doesnt need a good smack to start, If ya find out what the problem is PLEASE let me know ok?
Sherry

Thanks for your reply and suggestion. A friend of mine from Houston suggested the same thing. He has several older Corvette's and said that is how he found out the the starter was the issue.

I think the next time it happens, I'll have my wife try to start it while I give it a couple of hits. Seems to be a bit quicker than pulling the starter.

 

[KevinBelcher]

The fusible link is like any other fuse, either it is a solid connection or it is blown (open). So the starter would not work sometimes and then work later. It just would not work at all.
It is either the starter or the solenoid or both. The copper contacts in a GM solenoid have hardened surfaces and filing or sanding to clean up creates a temporary fix. The contacts will again get damaged by the current arc, only this time very quickly.
I agree with some others, replace the starter and the solenoid. Get a new starter and solenoid if possible and make sure it is the proper starter for the big block. The cheap rebuilt stuff that is out there today is not worth the effort to install. I have seen those parts fail within days of installation. If new is not available or too expensive, get the highest quailty rebuild you can find.

Mike

Thanks Mike. I think I will be pulling the starter this week. Seems that is the heart of the issue. With your description of the fusable link, I'm sure it isn't that.

Thanks again to everyone for the suggestions and help!