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86 hesitation

F

fatboyreyn

Guest
Hello. I had a roaming idle condition so I pulled of intake plenum, and replaced all brittle vaccum lines under there. I reassembled, and now I have no idle at cold start, but a fine idle once warm. The problem is I have a TERRIBLE hesitation most of the time if I punch it. Almost a half a second before it takes off and then minor stumbling if i keep pedal down while it's winding up. If I accelerate slowly it's a lot better, though you can sense all power is not there. I triple checked vaccum lines, TPS connector, and everything else I disturbed when I removed plenum. I do have a code 33, but thats been there for a week, and I ordered a new MAF sensor, after going through all the diagnostics in the manual and replacing both relays and there connectors. So I have no new codes for the hesitation. My question is if the MAF sensor is going south, will this cause hesitation blues? Anybody else had this problem after removing plenum? I should add the idle problems started when I threw a code a week ago for the MAF sensor.
 
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Fasttoys

Guest
yes

Yes the MAF sensor will cause hesitation when it is going bad and it will continue to get worse until you loose the MAF and you get a check engine light, the check engine light will smooth out the hesitation noticably and to confirm turn your bad MAF just turn the car off, restart it, now you should have a rough idle, discontect the wiring connector on the MAF sensor and your idle will become noticable smoother if you MAF sensor is bad. NOW I WILL STILL SAY PLEASE CHECK AS MUCH OF YOUR WIRING AS POSSIBLE FOR THE MAF WIRING CONNECTION TO MAKE SURE YOU NEED A MAF INSTEAD OF DOING A SIMPLE MELTED WIRE FIX. Hope this answers your question if not i know the world out TPI engines PM me with a question and I should be able to answer it.
 

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