89 corvette crank no start

[chitlin]

Help

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[chitlin]

I just traded for the vette. It has spark to the spark plugs and fuel to the fuel rail but no fuel coming out of the injectors.

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[Hib Halverson]

I just traded for the vette. It has spark to the spark plugs and fuel to the fuel rail but no fuel coming out of the injectors.

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Reverse the trade.

But, if you can't do that, get the FSM for 89, and follow the troubleshooting instructions for "cranks but won't run".

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[chitlin]

I did the checks. I check the ecm. It checked out to be bad but when I unplug it the same wire had 12 volts even with it unplug

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[boomdriver]

I did the checks. I check the ecm. It checked out to be bad but when I unplug it the same wire had 12 volts even with it unplug

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Heres a list of things that you can check...

1. is the fuel pump running 2 seconds when the key is turned to ON ?
2. the fuel pressure IS around 40+ psi when the rails charge ?
3. the dist is wired correctly on the cap ?

The VATS is still active and working??????????????????????????????????????????????????

VATS has TWO stages of protection. most people only know about the starter enable and by-pass that thinking they have defeated the VATS....NOT TRUE.
The 2nd part of VATS is the injector enable. if VATS is pissed off, it will not allow the injectors to cycle during start up or any other time.
The way it should work......turn the key, the starter rotates the engine and if VATS is happy, it lets the injectors cycle as it gets a signal from the dist telling it that the engine is trying to run. The ECM will let the inj work when cranking if VATS is OK. NOT the pump.
Thats why the fuel pump shuts off after 2 seconds....to prevent flooding until the engine fires, then you get the pump again and injectors.

IF you have fuel pressure, 40 psi or more, and spark, I highly suspect that your injectors are NOT operating. Get a NOID lite to test the inj to see if they are firing. its hard to tell with a test lite....the noid lite tells you for sure. IF you have no injs cycling during cranking, go to the VATS module and start looking at that....key, key cylinder, module or relay. ALL the parts are available on E-Bay new. BUT you better learn about VATS or you'll be very lost....

Good luck !

 

[geekinavette]

A shorted injector coil can do that...common problem on the '89. Very quick 'n easy test to do with an ohm meter.

 

[chitlin]

Thanks for the help. The first thing is someone before me has bypassed the pass key and nutral safety switch. Next when I got the car the red wire on the oil pressure switch was hot all the time with key on or off. Finally determined that the oil pressure switch was bad and replaced it. Still wouldn't start. I put a new ECM in with my prom and the car started. I let the car idle for awhile because I really don't know when the last time it ran. Started putting back together then drove it about 10 miles everything thing seamed fine. Then drove another 7 to ten miles to my house because I've been working on it in my brothers shop. I turn the car off when I got home for about 5 minutes it would start then go dead in a few seconds. I just left it alone because of darkness will try again this morning. By the way it does have elecectrial issues. Here is a list of things that don't work or I can't see them light up on the dash. Fuel gauge, oil pressure but has a mechanical one, water temperature, speedometer and other things I am going to put a water temperature gauge on it. Again thanks for the help to everyone. I'm néw to the forum so again thanks.

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[chitlin]

i got up this morning it started just fine. going to church then ride around some just to see when it heats up will it dit again. if so what would cause that.