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99 c5 not starting/intermittent starting

atycks

Member
Joined
Jan 19, 2013
Messages
5
Location
Denver, CO
Corvette
1999 Magnetic Red Metallic Coupee
This past week has been frustrating with my vette. I have a 1999 with a manual transmission. Sunday my car would not start so I jumped it and it started great. I took it to O'Reillys Auto Parts and had the battery tested and I was told it was a good battery; I was also told the starter was good. It then ran all day Sunday and Monday. Monday night I was driving home and my DIC read "Service ABS" about 10 min into driving. Shortly after that I got a "Low Voltage" message in my DIC and 10 secs later I had lost all power. I had no interior lights, exterior lights, power steering, abs, nothing. Luckily I rolled into a Dairy Queen parking lot where I got it jumped again and it started right up. 10 feet later it lost all power again.


The next day I went back to work on it. I tried jumping it and go nothing. I removed the battery and the alternator and took them to get tested. The alternator was bench tested twice and was good. The battery (800 CCA) read 620, then 1090, then 790, then 595. I replaced the battery thinking it was a bad cell. I cleaned the battery terminal connectors and installed the new battery and put my alternator back in. The car started and ran great.


Yesterday (Friday), I parked it at night and my E-Brake didn't catch so I went to start it again and got nothing. I jumped it and drove it home.


This morning, (Saturday) I could not start it in the morning, then 2 hours later I tried again and it started right up. I let it run for 10 min then shut it off and tried starting again and got nothing. It hasn't started since.


I read my codes
A0-LDCM B2252H, B2282H, B2284H
A1-RDCM B2283H, B2285H
B0-RFA U1255H, U1096H, U1064H, U1016H


I think most of the codes are a result of the battery dying/replacement. B2252 (Key Cylinder Switch Fault) is the one I think I should be worried about.


I went to relearn the VATS but my security light does not blink or turn on after the gauges have swept (it is on as the gauges are sweeping).


Thanks for the help!
 
This past week has been frustrating with my vette. I have a 1999 with a manual transmission. Sunday my car would not start so I jumped it and it started great. I took it to O'Reillys Auto Parts and had the battery tested and I was told it was a good battery; I was also told the starter was good. It then ran all day Sunday and Monday. Monday night I was driving home and my DIC read "Service ABS" about 10 min into driving. Shortly after that I got a "Low Voltage" message in my DIC and 10 secs later I had lost all power. I had no interior lights, exterior lights, power steering, abs, nothing. Luckily I rolled into a Dairy Queen parking lot where I got it jumped again and it started right up. 10 feet later it lost all power again.


The next day I went back to work on it. I tried jumping it and go nothing. I removed the battery and the alternator and took them to get tested. The alternator was bench tested twice and was good. The battery (800 CCA) read 620, then 1090, then 790, then 595. I replaced the battery thinking it was a bad cell. I cleaned the battery terminal connectors and installed the new battery and put my alternator back in. The car started and ran great.


Yesterday (Friday), I parked it at night and my E-Brake didn't catch so I went to start it again and got nothing. I jumped it and drove it home.


This morning, (Saturday) I could not start it in the morning, then 2 hours later I tried again and it started right up. I let it run for 10 min then shut it off and tried starting again and got nothing. It hasn't started since.


I read my codes
A0-LDCM B2252H, B2282H, B2284H
A1-RDCM B2283H, B2285H
B0-RFA U1255H, U1096H, U1064H, U1016H


I think most of the codes are a result of the battery dying/replacement. B2252 (Key Cylinder Switch Fault) is the one I think I should be worried about.


I went to relearn the VATS but my security light does not blink or turn on after the gauges have swept (it is on as the gauges are sweeping).


Thanks for the help!



It sounds like the charging system may not be working properly. What is the voltage at the battery terminals: 1) with engine running at idle, and 2) at 2000 rpm's? Perform the same tests with the headlights and blower on high speed. The voltages, checked with a quality voltmeter, should be between 13.5-14.2v. Good luck with it. :)
 
I have not been able to start it since this morning. I put a multimeter on it this morning though and its putting 15.1 V at idle, and 12.25 with it off. If I can start it tomorrow I will tell u the voltage at 2000 rpms. I'm thinking more along the lines of the starter solenoid but then again I'm new at this still. Thanks!
 
First thing...........
I have only 3 things to say..........."grounds,Grounds,GROUNDS"!~!!:thumb

C4's,C5's and C6's....Need the Juice,ALL of IT!~!!

High Resistance and Non-Existent "GROUNDS" Will cause Electronics to do weird Sh*t!~!!!
:thumb

Second thing.........
Clean and Inspect ALL Grounds on the vehicle,Even the Ground splice packs! All of them,and there is a bunch! :thumb

Third thing......... Clean and Inspect ALL B+ connections at Battery,Power Distribution Center and Fuse/Relay Panels located on top of Rt front inner wheel well and under passenger floorboard!~!!(Including all fuse and relay pins!):thumb


Been There,Done That and I do stay at the Holiday Inn Express every chance I get!~!!:L:L:L


PS. The battery needs to have no less than 120 reserve capacity!:thumb

Below is a schematic of C5 ground locations,Also there are a couple on the engine at the rear passenger side "Not Shown"!~!:thumb

#5 and another one that isn't shown is under the interior kick panel,#1 and #4 are under the rear trim behind the seats!

:beer

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ok thank you. Today I plan on looking at the ignition switch and checking and cleaning the grounds. I will keep you guys updated thanks. I might check the solenoid if I decide to buy a jack and stands too
 
ok thank you. Today I plan on looking at the ignition switch and checking and cleaning the grounds. I will keep you guys updated thanks. I might check the solenoid if I decide to buy a jack and stands too
Dude,Don't worry much about the Ignition Switch yet other than make sure there are No Contaminates (Armoral,or any kind of interior protectant spray!)on key pellet and contacts just inside the key opening!:thumb

:beer
 
Alright grounds it is. I'm going to start on it right now.
 
I found my problem, the negative stud on the terminal housing of the starter solenoid cracked and was dangling in space. Any suggestion on whether to just replace the solenoid or the entire starter?
 

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