grumpyvette
Well-known member
got this question in the email and on another location so heres a good answer, personally I just don,t think adjusting the valves without oil pressure and the block up to operating temp. is the best way either so....
how do you adjust valves at idle without the mess of oil getting all over the engine and headers
HIT A FEW YARD SALES, SWAP MEETS UNTILL YOU FIND A DIRT CHEAP SET OF TALL CAST VALVE COVERS LIKE THESE
you simply cut the ribbed center section out of the valve cover, and glue the synthetic valve cover gaskets on them in the normal location,
when you go to adjust the valves you first remove the standard valve covers and install your VALVE ADJUSTMENT COVERS, they retain about 80%-90% of the oil that would normally be lost over the edge of the cylinder head while adjusting a running engine, they also catch much of the splashed oil, just leave a 1/4"-3/8" of the rolled top for strenth around the perimiter of the top surface. I bought my set for $10, they were old and slightly discolored but I could not care less! I took them home and used a drill and saber saw to remove the center ribbed area, theres several brands that are very similar in appearance, all will work! and Ive used them for over 25 years, if I remember correctly they are mickey thompson brand
now if the lifters are hydrolic of course you just back the adjustment nuts off the rocker studs with a wrench, slowly until the rocker starts clicking , then slowly tighten the nut just up to the point that the clicking stops then add 1/4 to 1/2 turn to preload the lifter and move to the next rocker and repeat, the only differance with solid lifters is you use a feeler gauge inserted between the valve tip and rocker after they click slightly,to measure the lash distance recomended on the cam spec. card (normally .016-.028 thousands) and you tighten them just to the point at idle that the clicking stops... then you remove the feeler gauge and move to the next rocker
if your useing jam nuts dont forget to lock the allen key
how do you adjust valves at idle without the mess of oil getting all over the engine and headers
HIT A FEW YARD SALES, SWAP MEETS UNTILL YOU FIND A DIRT CHEAP SET OF TALL CAST VALVE COVERS LIKE THESE
you simply cut the ribbed center section out of the valve cover, and glue the synthetic valve cover gaskets on them in the normal location,
when you go to adjust the valves you first remove the standard valve covers and install your VALVE ADJUSTMENT COVERS, they retain about 80%-90% of the oil that would normally be lost over the edge of the cylinder head while adjusting a running engine, they also catch much of the splashed oil, just leave a 1/4"-3/8" of the rolled top for strenth around the perimiter of the top surface. I bought my set for $10, they were old and slightly discolored but I could not care less! I took them home and used a drill and saber saw to remove the center ribbed area, theres several brands that are very similar in appearance, all will work! and Ive used them for over 25 years, if I remember correctly they are mickey thompson brand
now if the lifters are hydrolic of course you just back the adjustment nuts off the rocker studs with a wrench, slowly until the rocker starts clicking , then slowly tighten the nut just up to the point that the clicking stops then add 1/4 to 1/2 turn to preload the lifter and move to the next rocker and repeat, the only differance with solid lifters is you use a feeler gauge inserted between the valve tip and rocker after they click slightly,to measure the lash distance recomended on the cam spec. card (normally .016-.028 thousands) and you tighten them just to the point at idle that the clicking stops... then you remove the feeler gauge and move to the next rocker
if your useing jam nuts dont forget to lock the allen key
