block prep

[grumpyvette]

besides the normal checks for deck height, line hone,and splayed main caps, making sure all the threaded holes are correct, the cylinders honed lifter bores are correct, theres the little things, I paint the inside surfaces of my blocks with
http://www.glyptal.com/1209_black_enamel.htm
to lock in place any micro dust left after the last total cleaning before assembly, to speed the oil flow back to the oil pan and help prevent corrosion
BTW I bought 16 rubber corks to push into the lifter bores to prevent paint entering the lifter bores durring the painting, I placed 16 mini-screw eyes in the corks and strung them on a bead chain to keep from loseing them while in storage or in use!

http://www.camtattoo.com/camshop/home.html?target=Piercing_SuppliesCorks_zg_Receiving_Tubes.html

Ive used BOTH RUSTOLEUM (BRITE YELLOW) and Glyptal but lately just several coats of BRITE YELLOW RUSTOLEUM ON OVER THE glyptal EPOXY BASE COAT,COVERED BYE BRITE YELLOW RUSTOLEUM APPLIED ON THE TOTALLY CLEANED AND DEGREASED AND DRIED BLOCK, (BTW A TOTAL DEGREASE OF THE BLOCK WITH ACETONE,and LINT FREE CLOTH, AND A heat gun or hair drier to totally dry the block just before cleaning helps the paint get a firm grip on the block surface) and dont forget you should remember the option to J&B EPOXY a MAGNET in the lifter gallery BEFORE painting the surfaces if you want to permenantly afix it on the block. (which do a great job at picking up micro metalic dust)
http://www.wondermagnet.com/dev/magnet1.html

I buy and use the 1 quart size cans of brite yellow paint at the local hardware store keep in mind that YOU MUST ALLOW THE PAINT TO TOTALLY DRY BEFORE ASSEMBLING THE ENGINE, AND THAT NORMALLY TAKES A FULL DAY IN THE HOT FLA HEAT (85 degrees (F)is a fairly average temp here

#7747 Sunburst Yellow
http://www.rustoleum.com/product.asp?frm_product_id=18&SBL=1
I use brite yellow on both the interior and exterior of the engine blocks I build because it makes finding oil leaks very easy once the engines in use in the corvettes where space is cramped and finding small leaks can sometimes be a problemActually the idea is to grind away all casting flash (the rough sandy looking surface) from the inside of the block, and then wash thoroughly, dry thoroughly, then apply the paint. This takes a long time and must be done carefully which is why most engine builders don't do it, but engine builders on racing teams do it.

It's not only to assist in oil drainback but also keeps the oil from clinging to the block and coking. In racing engines the benefits are slight but apparently noteworthy, check out any GTP type race car engine and you'll see this done as standard block prep.here read. it will help,

http://www.sa-motorsports.com/blockdiy/blkdiy.htm

http://www.hardblok.com/info.html


http://www.speedomotive.com/building%20tips.htm

http://www.se-r.net/engine/block_prep.html

now in addition to that info , heres what I do
(1) get the block totally cleaned, DEGREASED and CHECKED by a GOOD MACHINE SHOP BEFORE INVESTING MONEY IN IT!
(2) have new cam bearings and freeze plugs , oil plugs,installed only after all other machine work is done and after a extensive recleaning of all the oil passages just prior to starting assembly
(3) screens over the oil drain back holes are a good idea ONLY if your willing to change oil and filters very frequently
(4) several powerfull magnets in the oil pan and one in the rear of each cylinderhead to trap small metal parts is EXCELLENT INSURANCE
(5) polishing and smoothing the valve edges and combustion chambers helps prevent detonation
(6) if your pouring the block,never fill the water passages higher than the bottom of the freeze plug holes on a street engine
(7) 7 or more qt oil pans with BAFFLES AND A WINDAGE SCREEN like MILODON MAKES are a GREAT IDEA

 

[vette-dude]

One other thing. I always run a tap thru all the holes in the block, both the main brg areas and especially the head bolt holes. There is always residue in them from tanking the block and this will give you a clean thread to get the proper torque on the bolts. Also, on most small blocks the drain back holes in the lifter galley and the timing chain area usually have a casting flashing. I use a die grinder prior to painting to clean this up for better oil drain back. I also carefully run a brake hone thru each lifter bore to hone the surfaces for oil retention and clean up any pits or left over gunk. One other area I die grind for a smoother transition is where the oil pump mounts. Usaully the inside of the mounting surface is rough and I just smooth it out and take the rough edge off the feed hole. Just my $.02.

Randy

 

[Tom Bryant]

Thanks for all of the great info. Since my project is basically one step above a grocery getter I have just done the basic deburring and block polishing. I still need to deburr the oil pump holes and main caps then I'll be ready to start assembly. The Glyptal makes a real nice interior surface too. No doubt that this engine will perform well and last a long time.

My engine project

One thing this project has done is make me want to get started on an engine for the '59 Corvette. That one will be all top quality parts with no detail overlooked.

One question: Have you tried those magnetic covers or strips that attach to the oil filter? Seems to me that you would want to attract the fine metal particles to the filter where they can be disposed of regularly.

Tom

 

[grumpyvette]

"One question: Have you tried those magnetic covers or strips that attach to the oil filter? Seems to me that you would want to attract the fine metal particles to the filter where they can be disposed of regularly."




think about it VERY carefully!....in order for a filter magnet to work the bits of broken metal MUST pass thru the oil pump, providing an EXCELLENT CHANCE for those bits of metallic crud to damage the oil pump impellers, jam the pressure relief valve and scar the gears, and get crushed between the gears,then AFTER they pass thru the oil pump theres a VERY GOOD CHANCE they will get routed thru the bye-pass into the oil passages NOT into the filter,REMEMBER a differance in oil pressure of only 5-10 lbs allows some or most oil to bye-pass the filter, and if your not aware of it, the addition of a bunch of free floating metallic dust from a ground up cam or other metallic dust WILL CLOG THE FILTER so only the first few bits are likely to be trapped by the filter!!
carefull placement of those powerfull magnets in the oil pan sump,traps the metallic dust BEFORE it can even enter the oil pump! having a magnet wrap on the filter is a bit like having a trama surgical team on stand bye if you know your going to get shot, it helps but a bullet proof vest , that PREVENTS the damage helps more (THE MAGNETS IN THE PAN) and not getting shot at at all is the best plan (useing the correct cam,dist gear,installation and properly built lube systen PLUS the magnets as a back-up is an even better idea!!)(those filter magnets sure won,t hurt but its not the most effective way to go about trapping metalic crud BEFORE it can do damage to your engine! CAREFULL INSTALLATION,AND ENGINE BUILDING, PREVENTING TROUBLE BEATS FIXING PROBLEMS EVERY TIME!

BTW...heres a few things that should always be checked on an engine build, you can print it out as a check list
(is everything clean and degreased before you start?
Do you have all the tools youll need

heads
are the pushrods perfectly strait?
do the pushrods flow oil?
rocker studs/guides torqued correctly?
do the head bolts have washers under the bolt heads? are they the correct length for the cylinder heads in use?
have the heads been pocket ported?
combustion chambers unshrouded?
intake ports gasket matched"
are the valve guides cut to the correct length?
are the heads pocket ported?
is the retainer to valve guide clearance correct?
are the valve guide oil seals installed?
is there valve spring seats installed?
inner damper springs installed?
spring bind height checked? (to exceed max valve lift by .050 min.)
oil return holes cleaned of casting flash?
were steam holes in heads necessary?
were the spark plug threads of a installed spark plug extending into the combustion chamber?
rocker slot to rocker stud clearances ?
retainer to valve guide clearances?
spring bind height checked for the correct spring pressure?
valve lash/preload ?
are the valve springs the correct tension,height?dia.
keeper the correct angle? style? size?
valve seats the correct angles?
valves back cut?
valves the correct length, stemsthe correct diam.
strait?
rockers the correct ratio?
were the valve to valve guide clearances checked?
were the heads milled?
did the head gasket overlap the bore?
what are your valve train clearances?
is the rocker arm geometry correct!
chambers CC,ed
port work..(some steps optional)

(1) open throat to 85%-90% of valve size
(2)cut a 4 angle seat with 45 degree angle .065-.075 wide where the valve seats and about .100 at 60 degrees below and a .030 wide 30 degree cut above and a 20 degree cut above that rolled and blended into the combustion chamber
(3)blend the spark plug boss slightly and lay back the combustion chamber walls near the valves
(4)narrow but dont shorten the valve guide
(5) open and straiten and blend the upper two port corner edges along the port roof
(6) gasket match to/with intake and raise the port roof slightly
(7) back cut valves at 30 degrees
(8) polish valve face and round outer edges slightly
(9)polish combustion chamber surface and blend edges slightly
(10) remove and smooth away all casting flash , keep the floor of the port slightly rough but the roof and walls smoothed but not polished.
(11) use a head gasket to see the max you can open the combustion chamber walls
(12) blend but don,t grind away the short side radias


block
do you have enough assembly lube!
is the oil pump pick-up mounted 3/8"-1/2" from the oil pan floor/
is the windage screen mounted about 1/8" from the rotateing assembly/
is the pick-up brazed to the pump body?
has the oil pump relief piston in the oil pump been checked for free ,easy movement? clearance? spring tension?
is the oil pump pick-up tube inserted too far into the oil pump body,(binding the gears)
has the block been clearanced for the rotating assembly?
has the block been aline honed?
is the crank strait?
are the damper install keyway and threads ok?
counter weights clearanced?
MAGNAFLUXED?
OIL PASSAGES CLEANED?
GALLERY PLUGS INSTALLED CORRECTLY?
has the cam to rod bolt clearance been checked?
piston to valve clearances checked?
piston to bore clearances?
TRUST BEARING CLEARANCE?
what were the piston ring to slot clearances?
RING GAPS?
were the rings all checked individually for end gap in the cylinders they were used/installed in?
were the rings checked to make sure the correct side faced up, and the correct ring was in each groove?
what were the back clearance on the rings?
were the oil ring expanders carefully fitted for correct drag?
were the oil ring scraper ring rails checked for end gap?
total cam lift and remaining clearanceS?
WAS THE CAM DEGREED IN?
main bearing clearances?
what is the main bearing run-out clearance
piston to head clearance? (QUENCH?)
head gasket to coolent holes checked?
magnets installed?
rod bolt to block clearances?
what tq reading is necessay to spin the crank with no rods attached?
are the rod bolts and main caps torqued correctly? (rod bolts checked with a bolt stretch gauge?)
did you check the block for a strait main cap alignment?
what size journals and what were the bearings edge to filet clearance??
are the journals checked for finish and run-out/tapper?
did you use moly lube to assemble?
correct bearing crush?
did you pre-lube before start-up?
did the distributor gear fit the cam gear precisely?
was the distributor oil flow mod done?
was the correct style distributor gear used?
did you check the piston to piston pin bores for fit and clearance?
did the piston pins to snap ring clearance seem overly tight?
if they are pressed pins were they correctly matched and checked for free movement in the pistons?
was the engine ballanced?
cam button installed?, and lock plate installed?
were the rods resized? checked for parrallel bores/were the rods strait?
piston valve clearance notchs correctly located on the pistons? edges smoothed?
were the rods checked for length?
is there a few thousands clearance on the oil pump drive shaft AFTER the distributors bolted down?
did you install a steel collar on the oil pump drive shaft?
was the rod to piston pin side clearance checked? (at 4 places seperated bye 90 degree spots)
does the oil pump drive shaft mid section clear the block with the pump installed?
whats the starter to flywheel gear clearance?
is the pilot bearing to trans imput shaft clearance ok?
is the front motor mount bolt to fuel pump pushrod clearance ok? did the fuel pump pushrod move easily/
are you possitive the pistons were installed with the correct valve relief in the correct location?(eiieeiie) were the pistons installed with the correct side facing forward/
what torque values were used on all fasteners/ were they the correct length and type bolts?
were the bores honed with a torque plate in place?
was the cylinder finish correct for the type rings used?
was the oil pump itself checked for free spin and clearance AFTER THE PICK-UP WAS INSTALLED?
was the cam drive checked for free rotation and drag/
were the oil passage plugs drilled for extra oil flow?
were the lifter bores checked?
cam to timing cover clearance?
cam journal to cam bearing clearances?
was the cam journal run-out checked?
was the cam degreed in or just lined up useing factiory index marks?
has the rod and windage screen to oilpan clearnce been checked?
does the dipstick & tube clear the windage screen?
was the cam lobes/LSA/LIFT CHECKED?
is the deck square/level?
whats the cross hatch hone angle?
what grit hone was used?
are all the threads clean/clear?
brass freeze plugs installed?
block painted?
do the oil return holes have screens epoxied in place if necessary
theres more to doing it correctly but that will hit the more comon things