Body repair and 1/4 panel replacement

[suerto]

I looked all over the forum and could not find much detailed info on replacing the rear quarter panels... I sideswiped a road sign in my 96 CE and found a totally stripped 90 (still had the rear quarterpanels, windshield and rear glass) for $250.. It only took me 4 hours to rip the quarter panels off in one piece. Keep in mind that I did not have to remove bumpers, external hardware, carpet, etc.. If I ever have to rip another quarter panel I would say that it could be done in 1 to 2 now that I have an idea of how to attack it, (I was a mechanic in a past life).. So if anybody else ever needs assistance, feel free to email me.. I can see where just trying to rip the outer fiberglass by itself would have caused more damage (due to gouging when getting too rough with the paint scraper and screwdriver) where if you actually skin the secondary panels with it, it gives you more room for error when getting aggressive with the hardware. All I used was a 4" wide paint scraper, flathead screwdriver, hammer, prybar, wooden 2x4 with one edge cut to a point, and a jigsaw. I used the jigsaw to just cut up the "b" pillar for speed but will not be using it to attack my car.. 4 pieces of fiberglass tie into the "B" pillar and a ton of glue was used there..

Now that I have the needed fiberglass off of the doner, does anyone have the faintest idea of what glue or adhesive to use for attaching to the car.. I noticed that in some areas the adhesive was black and firm whereas in other areas it was green and hard as a rock.. I'm sure this was done purposefully, but just wondering if anyone here had a direct line to somebody who knew for sure what adhesive to use where...
thanks,
Brian
Lafayette, LA

 

[Hrtbeat1]

There was a series of articles in Corvette Fever a while back about an older C4 that one of the writers picked up for cheap. It was pretty much a basket case, but he got it anyway. The whole purpose was to document and write the story of what it would take to fix the car up. One of the articles dealt with repairing the floorboards, they got damaged by improper jacking most likely. There was one article that dealt with repairing the drivers rear quarter panel and rear bumper, apparently the car had been rear ended. they had a pretty good write up with lots of pictures. I can't remember if they mentioned the adhesive, but I do remember them tallking about the green adhesive (panel bonding adhesive?) and how hard the stuff was.

You might look up Corvette Fever and see if they still have the articles. At one time they had many of the old articles on the web.

BTW welcome to

 

[gmjunkie]

Now that I have the needed fiberglass off of the doner, does anyone have the faintest idea of what glue or adhesive to use for attaching to the car.. I noticed that in some areas the adhesive was black and firm whereas in other areas it was green and hard as a rock.. I'm sure this was done purposefully, but just wondering if anyone here had a direct line to somebody who knew for sure what adhesive to use where...
thanks,
Brian
Lafayette, LA

I use FUSOR 127EZ!! 3-M,Worth and several other company's make quality adhesives too!! 2 Part,Mixes as it comes down the tip,I use the one with 90 minute work time!! I'm getting old and slow!!Besides I want to do it right,Not Right Now!!cool

 

[suerto]

Yeah, thats all I could find on the forum.. References to articles in magazines.. I attempted to locate a couple of articles, but couldnt find any.. So, I just methodically and cautiously went to town hammering the paint scraper between the seams where I saw glue..

Thanks GM Junkie for the glue tip (and pic).. Lemme ask though, is that the only glue you used? like I said, there were two different types I ran across.. the firm black and rock hard green... The 90 minute dry time will work good for me too as I will prolly be adjusting to perfection as it dries..

thanks again..

 

[gmjunkie]

Thanks GM Junkie for the glue tip (and pic).. Lemme ask though, is that the only glue you used? like I said, there were two different types I ran across.. the firm black and rock hard green... The 90 minute dry time will work good for me too as I will prolly be adjusting to perfection as it dries..

thanks again..

Yeah, in the factory they are glued at different times and in some places have a little different glue!!You won't find any like it unless you want to buy a bunch of barrels!! Fusor by Lord makes several different glues and this one is as good as, probly even better than what GM used!! It's for Metal to Glass and Glass to Glass applications!! As far as adjusting the fit after the glue,that would be a PITA!! I always fit and clamp everything and drill some line up holes for some rivets to line it up with! Pull it back off put a small bead of glue everywhere it's needed and put the part back on,line up the rivet holes with a rivet and then clamp it!!