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BRAKE JOB

Nobody Cares

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 7, 2006
Messages
421
Location
Higgins Lake , Michigan
Corvette
red 81, orange 74 vert. , 80 claret,69 chevy pu
Going to do a complete brake job on the 74 vert. Is there any good links that i might print out on the proper procedure ?? Going to do rotors, calipers, pads and lines. Fiirst time for a complete brake job. Thnx dave :beer
 
Are you doing because you need it, or because you think 'it's the right thing to do'? Playing with Corvette brakes-especially the rotors as mentioned above- is a specialised art.
 
Playing with Corvette brakes-especially the rotors... is a specialised art.

Beyond replacing (or resurfacing) or simply doing nothing - what do you mean by 'playing with'? What else is there to do here when servicing rotors?

Interesting. I didn't know I was an artist! ;) Can you expand upon why you're singling out servicing rotors as the most specialized art on servicing C3 brakes vs say, for example, re-sleaving calipre pistons?

thx
 
Check the run out on all four rotors. If they are in spec and do not need to be replaced, my advice is to leave them there. If you replace them, run out on the four new ones will be critical or you will be continuously pumping air into the system.

:)
 
Check the run out on all four rotors. If they are in spec and do not need to be replaced, my advice is to leave them there. If you replace them, run out on the four new ones will be critical or you will be continuously pumping air into the system.

:)

Zzzactly. It's very rare that C2/C3 rotors need resurfacing or replacement. :beer
 
vs say, for example, re-sleaving calipre pistons?

thx

Might want to get yourself a psell chekser, and brush up on your terminology at the same time. A caliper can be re-sleeved, but not pistons as far as I know.

Replacement of a caliper, sleeved or unsleeved, is no more difficult than other cars, barring complications with leaks and bleeding of trapped residual air.
 
Might want to get yourself a psell chekser, and brush up on your terminology at the same time. A caliper can be re-sleeved, but not pistons as far as I know.

Oh no! :eek:hnoes the old fall back time honored tradition of criticizing anothers spelling. :bash

Anyway now that Vettehead Mike has had his fun, :chuckle he intially said:

Vettehead Mikey said:
Playing with Corvette brakes-especially the rotors... is a specialised art.

which I found to be a rather curious declaration. ;shrug So when I asked for elaboration...

Replacement of a caliper, sleeved or unsleeved, is no more difficult than other cars, barring complications with leaks and bleeding of trapped residual air.

OK I must confess I was initially confused about this specialized art since I ain't no artist but have done some break work. :W But now I'm really confused, is servicing C3 brakes a "specialized art" or "no more difficult than other cars"? More specifically what's "especially" "specialized" in the "art" of servicing C3 rotors? :gap

Thanks
 
Personalities and Ego's aside, please keep the assistance helpful and personal experience's related to the question HELPFUL and not a ****ing match!!

Bud Dougherty
Forums Administrator
 
Corvette brakes are still among the best on production cars. They cetainly were miles ahead of the pack back in 65.

They get a bad rap from people( a LOT of people) who don't know or understand the system.

For example:
Going with slotted or drilled rotors is a waste of money for a street car, HP pads the same. A stock rotor and organic pads will work great if the system is setup correctly. DOT 3 BF is all that's needed as well.

So the thing is to be sure the calipers are good, most have been replaced with SS lined ones by now but there are still some iron bores out there.

Check the rotor thickness and runout. If they are not warped, undersize, or grooved just use a 100 grit pad on a D/A to clean them up. If the rotor rivets are gone then someone was in there and anything is possible.

Check the endplay in the bearings, front and rear.

When I rebuild bearings/arms/rotors I set the runout to 002 or under and endplay to 0015-002 max. No o-ring calipers, slotted rotors, DOT5 BF, SS hoses are required unless you like to waste your money. Use it to correct bearing issues and runout.

A properly setup system will work great and has. Talk to most original owners or past owners and you'll find their brake issues started after someone removed the rotors or the calipers leaked.

If you store the car for a few months or more, then bleed the system every year using a Motive bleeder.

Good luck
 
...Going with slotted or drilled rotors is a waste of money for a street car, HP pads the same. A stock rotor and organic pads will work great if the system is setup correctly. DOT 3 BF is all that's needed as well....If you store the car for a few months or more, then bleed the system every year using a Motive bleeder....

Well put. I agree.

:)
 
Just my 2 cents.
My '81 sat for 17 years in a barn. All rotors were extremly rusted, calipers seized, rubber hoses rotted, master cylinder leaking. Brake lines were fine, just some surface rust.
Rotors were surfaced with no issues, all calipers replaced and both trailing arm assemblies, bearings froze. New master cylinder and hoses. Everthing went back together with no problems.

tcxd40
 

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