vigman
Motor head!!!!
- Joined
- Feb 13, 2001
- Messages
- 3,471
- Location
- Valencia, CA,USA
- Corvette
- 88 Convert ( SOLD ) /1973 coupe 4 speed/1964 Vert!
Lets assume for the sake of conversation you ONLY have a test light.
Test #1 IS THE DAMN PUMP WORKING?
Key Off/engine off
If you have a fuel pressure meter now would be a good time to install it.
Get a heavy gauge wire #16 or better and jump from pin G ( lower left hand of ALDL connector ) to +12 volts. You can go direct from the battery. When you complete this circut the fuel pump will be Whizzing away.
This circut will check the wiring from the fuel pump relay ( swinger=output ) down to the fuse panel and the wiring all the way down to the pump in the tank.
Test #1 ALT ( dont have a long piece of wire )
Key Off/engine off
If you have a fuel pressure meter now would be a good time to install it.
Next to the brake booster is the fuel pump relay
( inbetween the booster & wiper motor)
there should be 4 wires on the connector
Big Orange PIN A ( +12 volts battery power )
Big Red PIN E ( switched power to pump)
Dark Green/White PIN D
( Relay control to coil from ECM +12 @ start & run)
Blk/White Pin F
(Ground for relay coil)
And another BIG RED Pin C
This is the connection from PIN G of the ALDL connector.
Check that PIN A is HOT with the test light.
then Jump pin A to pin E
Pump SHOULD be whizzing away again.
If no pump action is happening....
Remove the license plate on the back.
Find the 3 PIN connector with
TAN WHITE PIN C Pump power from Relay
PURPLE PIN B Tank sender
(90 OHM's when full 0 when empty)
BLACK PIN A Ground
The male connector is the one going to the tank!!!
Seperate the connector(s)
Check that pin A on the female side is in fact GROUND ( if you have a OHM meter)
Take a 12 volt battery and hook the
TAN/White to +
The Black to -
ON THE MALE CONNECTOR
Pump whizzing away????
Disconnect.......
Now take the test light and put it on the female connector between the TAN/White & the black
Put the light where you can see it while your in the drivers seat.
Turn the key on to crank, the light SHOULD COME ON for 2 seconds.. If not.....Turn the key off
( you will need an assistant for this one, some scantilly clad bikini babe.)
You grab the fuel pump relay still connected and have the assistant crank the car...you should feel a click when the relay goes.
If no click.......
Either the ECM is goofed OR the relay is BAD or the relay socket is goofed.
We need to perform these tests BEFORE we can go any further.
You have the number...you know what to do!
Mike
Test #1 IS THE DAMN PUMP WORKING?
Key Off/engine off
If you have a fuel pressure meter now would be a good time to install it.
Get a heavy gauge wire #16 or better and jump from pin G ( lower left hand of ALDL connector ) to +12 volts. You can go direct from the battery. When you complete this circut the fuel pump will be Whizzing away.
This circut will check the wiring from the fuel pump relay ( swinger=output ) down to the fuse panel and the wiring all the way down to the pump in the tank.
Test #1 ALT ( dont have a long piece of wire )
Key Off/engine off
If you have a fuel pressure meter now would be a good time to install it.
Next to the brake booster is the fuel pump relay
( inbetween the booster & wiper motor)
there should be 4 wires on the connector
Big Orange PIN A ( +12 volts battery power )
Big Red PIN E ( switched power to pump)
Dark Green/White PIN D
( Relay control to coil from ECM +12 @ start & run)
Blk/White Pin F
(Ground for relay coil)
And another BIG RED Pin C
This is the connection from PIN G of the ALDL connector.
Check that PIN A is HOT with the test light.
then Jump pin A to pin E
Pump SHOULD be whizzing away again.
If no pump action is happening....
Remove the license plate on the back.
Find the 3 PIN connector with
TAN WHITE PIN C Pump power from Relay
PURPLE PIN B Tank sender
(90 OHM's when full 0 when empty)
BLACK PIN A Ground
The male connector is the one going to the tank!!!
Seperate the connector(s)
Check that pin A on the female side is in fact GROUND ( if you have a OHM meter)
Take a 12 volt battery and hook the
TAN/White to +
The Black to -
ON THE MALE CONNECTOR
Pump whizzing away????
Disconnect.......
Now take the test light and put it on the female connector between the TAN/White & the black
Put the light where you can see it while your in the drivers seat.
Turn the key on to crank, the light SHOULD COME ON for 2 seconds.. If not.....Turn the key off
( you will need an assistant for this one, some scantilly clad bikini babe.)
You grab the fuel pump relay still connected and have the assistant crank the car...you should feel a click when the relay goes.
If no click.......
Either the ECM is goofed OR the relay is BAD or the relay socket is goofed.
We need to perform these tests BEFORE we can go any further.
You have the number...you know what to do!
Mike