C2 fuse panel

[67HEAVEN]

This photo is of my original 1967 fuse panel.........since replaced.

What is the intended use of the terminal marked ACC? (I'm getting no voltage there on the new harness/panel)

What is the intended use of the terminal marked LPS? (I'm getting no voltage there on the new harness/panel)

Additional question -- what is the recommended method for obtaining 12volts "switched by the ignition switch" for auxiliary items?

 

[Subfixer]

The ACC terminal should have 12V only when the key is in the ACC or Run position. Just like the radio. This is the "switched by ignition switch" terminal.
The LPS terminal should have 12V when the headlight switch is in the parking or headlights on position. Same basic circuit as the dash lights.

 

[67HEAVEN]

The ACC terminal should have 12V only when the key is in the ACC or Run position. Just like the radio. This is the "switched by ignition switch" terminal.
The LPS terminal should have 12V when the headlight switch is in the parking or headlights on position. Same basic circuit as the dash lights.

Thanks Subfixer.

Although this is a new Lectric Limited main harness/fuse panel, I have no voltage at either terminal under key on/key off or headlights on/headlights off situations.

Since the harness comes pre-wired to the fuse panel, it leaves me wondering what the solution may be. :confused

All lights, gauges, etc. are now operating correctly.

 

[Geek's 65]

Not sure why the ACC isn't hot from the ignition switch but the LPS looks like it is controlled by the light dimmer on the light switch. It might be that your dash lights are turned way down or off so that one doesn't show hot even with the light switch on? Try turning the light up full bright and see if something shows up?

 

[Subfixer]

Thanks Subfixer.

Although this is a new Lectric Limited main harness/fuse panel, I have no voltage at either terminal under key on/key off or headlights on/headlights off situations.

Since the harness comes pre-wired to the fuse panel, it leaves me wondering what the solution may be. :confused

All lights, gauges, etc. are now operating correctly.

Maybe Lectric forgot to hook the terminal up, although I'm under the impression that the ACC terminal is "hard-wired" inside the fuse box. At least it is in the originals. Maybe you should give them a call to find out.

 

[Ken Anderson]

Someone asked recently if I had any proof of erractic quality with LL products. Well.............

 

[67HEAVEN]

I pulled the fuse panel today and had a look behind.

The tech guy at Lectric Limited indicated that the bottom two terminals (marked power windows) are connected internally and function identically -- 12 volts all the time. That is correct and I am indeed getting 12 volts.

He also indicated that the top two terminals (marked ACC - LPS) are joined internally and function identically -- 12 volts only in Accessory or Run position on the ignition switch. They are joined (after looking behind) but I am not getting any voltage. He suggested that I examine the wire on the back to see if it was detached. It was not detached.

Can anyone tell me where the 16 gauge (??) grey-with-black-stripe wire attached to the rear of these ACC - LPS terminals goes? It runs up into the main dash harness.

Not only are the ACC - LPS terminals not showing on the wiring schematic provided by Lectric Limited, they're not in the A.I.M. nor the Service Manual either. The POWER WINDOWS terminals are showing.....the other two are not. :confused

 

[Geek's 65]

I cut my old fuse panel apart to see what it looked like (It's original 65 GM). ACC and LPS are connected to the cold side of Fuse #4 by a buss bar (LL can't screw up a buss bar) and then a gray wire (I don't have a gray with black stipe in my fuse panel at all) goes to all the instrument lights. Clock, panel, radio, cigarette lighter and ignition switch. Fuse #4 hot side is fed by a green wire which comes from the dimmer circuit on the light switch.... Try turning on your parking lights, cranking the dimmer all the way up full bright, and see if you see anything on the left (feed) side (as you are looking at it) of fuse #4. If it's hot then look at the right side of fuse #4. If that's hot, so should ACC and LPS. Would have tried it on my car but the instrument panel and radio are pulled. So my battery is not hooked up.

 

[Ken Anderson]

OK Heaven, here's the skinny on LL. Pull the firewall connector (assuming your front harness is LL) and detach from the fuse panel. I would bet there is a terminal or two that has pushed out of either the firewall panel or the fuseblock. Non of this stuff even comes close to OEM quality, but will work when you get the bugs out of it.
Good Luck!

 

[67HEAVEN]

OK Heaven, here's the skinny on LL. Pull the firewall connector (assuming your front harness is LL) and detach from the fuse panel. I would bet there is a terminal or two that has pushed out of either the firewall panel or the fuseblock. Non of this stuff even comes close to OEM quality, but will work when you get the bugs out of it.
Good Luck!

Thanks Ken. I disconnected it earlier today when I pulled the fuse panel to inspect it. I did find one pin on the back of the panel (which connects to the firewall connectors) which was partially indented. I pulled it out to the correct length before reassembling, but noticed that my headlamp warning light on the dash is not functioning when lights are on and doors closed. Further investigation required.

I still am looking for the answer to....

Not only are the ACC - LPS terminals not showing on the wiring schematic provided by Lectric Limited, they're not in the A.I.M. nor the Service Manual either. The POWER WINDOWS terminals are showing.....the other two are not. :confused

 

[67HEAVEN]

I cut my old fuse panel apart to see what it looked like (It's original 65 GM). ACC and LPS are connected to the cold side of Fuse #4 by a buss bar (LL can't screw up a buss bar) and then a gray wire (I don't have a gray with black stipe in my fuse panel at all) goes to all the instrument lights. Clock, panel, radio, cigarette lighter and ignition switch. Fuse #4 hot side is fed by a green wire which comes from the dimmer circuit on the light switch.... Try turning on your parking lights, cranking the dimmer all the way up full bright, and see if you see anything on the left (feed) side (as you are looking at it) of fuse #4. If it's hot then look at the right side of fuse #4. If that's hot, so should ACC and LPS. Would have tried it on my car but the instrument panel and radio are pulled. So my battery is not hooked up.

Thanks for this. I'll use this information tomorrow.

 

[Ken Anderson]

If you do not "spread" the soft terminals they use they will push in on reassembly, reassmble 2 or 3 times too make sure that all of the 'loose' ones are fixed.

 

[67HEAVEN]

Ken Anderson,

Spreading the one problem terminal did the job and my headlight warning light works now. Took it apart twice and checked. All's good now.

Geek's 65,
Using your information, and after ensuring a good firewall connection (see above), I was able to get voltage at the ACC LPS buss. Thanks much.

Two remaining questions.........for now anyway.

1. My earlier question remains unsolved -- "Not only are the ACC LPS terminals not showing on the wiring schematic provided by Lectric Limited, they're not in the A.I.M. nor the Service Manual either. The POWER WINDOWS terminals are showing.....the other two are not."

2. Why would Chevy configure the two terminals ACC LPS on the fuse panel in the way that they did?
- when dash lights are off there's no (or negligible) voltage at those terminals
- however, voltage progressively increases with the brightness of the dash lights -- 2 volts (at minimal brightness), then...3...4...5...6...7...8...9...10...to 11 at full brightness. The only use that I can imagine are the old blue sex lights that were all the rage in the '60s. As you dim the dash lights, the sex lights dim too. :confused What other use would there be?

Over to you guys.

 

[Geek's 65]

"The only use that I can imagine are the old blue sex lights that were all the rage in the '60s. As you dim the dash lights, the sex lights dim too. What other use would there be?"


Jeesh!! Your problem with this is what?

Glad to hear you're hooked up. As for your question #1 - no clue. Maybe they had no clue how to document the blue sex lights?

 

[Tom Bryant]

The same fuse box is probably used on other GM cars. The variable circuit may have fed lamps in a console or was meant for you to have a place to pick up power for lamps in external guages.

Tom

 

[Ken Anderson]

GM sold accessory lamps thru their dealers for many years. Remember the "spotlights"?
There were also fog lamps and other stuff. ALL fuse panel blocks were set up for their installation.

 

[67HEAVEN]

GM sold accessory lamps thru their dealers for many years. Remember the "spotlights"?
There were also fog lamps and other stuff. ALL fuse panel blocks were set up for their installation.

Ken,

Why would anyone hook these accessory lights up to a terminal that reduces voltage when you dim the dash lights?

I'm trying to imagine why I'd want my fog lamps to be running dim. :confused

 

[67HEAVEN]

The same fuse box is probably used on other GM cars. The variable circuit may have fed lamps in a console or was meant for you to have a place to pick up power for lamps in external guages.

Tom

Tom,

That seems like a plausible explanation.

Too bad the General didn't provide some additional fully-12-volt-switched terminals in the blank spots on the fuse panel. As you probably know, there are four blank spots that could have been used. Would have been great for fog lights, electric fuel pumps, etc.

 

[JohnZ]

Probably for stuff like accessory compasses that had lights in them, so they could be dimmed along with the dash lights.

 

[magicv8]

The answer is.....

Any owner of an A-C car knows that the additional dash lamps for the A-C controls are plugged in there. The center 12volt spade is for the 4-way flashers.

The best way to hang added 12volt ignition and accessory lines is to pop the ignition switch plug, and then solder a new female spade lug to ignition and accessory harness wires that has an additional wire inserted in the spade lug - daisy chained at the other end of the added wires to a few added insulated spade lugs a few inches apart.

Any time you want to return to stock configuration, clip the added wire at the spade lug and no NCRS judge will ever know. Thats how I hooked up the electric pump, reverb stereo booster, intermittent wipers, cruise control, radar detector, and auxiliary headlamp relay.