C2 taillight repair question

[Ronald]

I am not much of a mechanic. Just wondering how hard it is to work on taillights. I want to re-hook up my backup lights. Looks like I have to take off the whole bottom piece at the rear (under the bumper) in order to get access to the rear of the taillights. Just wondering if this is easy to take off and get back on etc. Will it give me considerably greater access to the rear of the light fixture, or should I just try to undue the nut on the fixture and then work through the light hole? My alternative is just to leave the backup lights as non-functioning. I am sort of weighing this out versus the pain of re-hooking them up. (They had been replaced by another red light). Thanks.

 

[67HEAVEN]

I would definitely remove the lower rear valance (exhaust panel) to get access, but if you have underbody exhaust the tailpipes go through the exhaust panel. The bolts that hold the panel on are also known to break due to rust. If that happens, now you're into drilling and tapping....you may even have to remove the rear bumpers (can't remember if all the holes are accessible with the bumpers on).

While removing the bumpers, you may find rusted in bolts that break off and now you're into trying to remove them from the nuts welded inside the metal cages inside the bumpers.

So, Ronald, I guess what I'm saying is either send a chimpanzee in there to get to the backside of the taillight pots, or be satisfied with 4 red lights, or buy a '67 like mine with separate backup lights.

 

[Ronald]

Thanks 67, that's kind of what I thought... don't know if it's worth the trouble. What I do have now is the white lens so it looks correct, they just do not work. Sort of bugs me that they do not work, as that is the only thing on my car that does not work. I don't believe I would have a problem with the bumpers as I had them off for re-chroming... don't know about the rest though. I can just see this "little project" becoming a nightmare. It would have been easier if backup lights were only an option on the 66!

 

[attret00]

Ronald, I had no trouble at all removing the rear valance on my '64. Go ahead and give it a shot all you can do is learn.

 

[JohnZ]

Pull the valance panel off - it's MUCH easier to get to the taillight sockets that way - nearly impossible without removing the panel.

 

[youwish2bme]

You never said if you had a side exhaust or under car... If it's a side exhaust car why go thru the hassle of removing the valance. You can reach up under there and remove the speed nuts very easily unless you have monster hands... Trust me I changed out all four of my tail lights in about 30 minutes.. It is not necessary to remove the valance. With a little patience you will have a lot less worries... Dave....

 

[WayneC]

I'm confused... have you tried to find out why your backup lights aren't working? You should be able to remove the lenses and bulbs and use a multimeter to see if the sockets are getting 12v and are grounded... if no power at the sockets with the tranny in reverse and the lights turned on, check the tranny-mounted backup switch first for continuity before tracing the rest of the circuit. I don't have a wiring diagram for a C2 with a backup light switch... does anyone know if the switch:
a) provides power to the backup lights? or
b) provides a ground for the backup lights?

 

[Ronald]

I'm confused... have you tried to find out why your backup lights aren't working? You should be able to remove the lenses and bulbs and use a multimeter to see if the sockets are getting 12v and are grounded... if no power at the sockets with the tranny in reverse and the lights turned on, check the tranny-mounted backup switch first for continuity before tracing the rest of the circuit. I don't have a wiring diagram for a C2 with a backup light switch... does anyone know if the switch:
a) provides power to the backup lights? or
b) provides a ground for the backup lights?

Wayne,

The backup lights are not properly wired. The previous owner(s) replaced the backup light with another red taillight. When I bought the car it actually had 3 red lights on each side. I gather there was a bit of a trend to do this at one time. When I had the car painted I had the extra light removed to return it to its original look. So ... basically all I have done is disable the bulb so I don't have white light showing when my taillight/brake lights are on.

 

[Ronald]

You never said if you had a side exhaust or under car... If it's a side exhaust car why go thru the hassle of removing the valance. You can reach up under there and remove the speed nuts very easily unless you have monster hands... Trust me I changed out all four of my tail lights in about 30 minutes.. It is not necessary to remove the valance. With a little patience you will have a lot less worries... Dave....

No side pipes. I don't think I can do this without removing the valance. I may give this a try. I can just see having it all off and then not being able to find the right wire. But it's nice to know there is help here.

 

[61 Silver]

Back up lights

Hi!



I had the same California three light treatment on my 65. You may want to check and see if you have a back-up switch. I had to secure the switch, linkage and heat shield. I was lucky they never removed the wiring. I did have to rework the rear light wiring.

 

[JohnZ]

The switch is normally open - the pink wire to it is hot whenever the ignition is on, and when the switch closes (in reverse), the switch feeds current to the backup lights through the light green wire.

 

[Ronald]

Hi!



I had the same California three light treatment on my 65. You may want to check and see if you have a back-up switch. I had to secure the switch, linkage and heat shield. I was lucky they never removed the wiring. I did have to rework the rear light wiring.

Thanks for this. I checked and found no switch, linkage or heat shield. The 3 wires that enter the fire wall inboard of the master cylinder have been cut. (pink, light green and black). I did not take off the rear valence but I did see a pink and light green wire back there. So I guess my question now is how hard is it to replace the front end portion and is it worth my while? :confused

 

[JohnZ]

The switch (which includes the wiring pigtail and connector to the connector on the firewall), bracket, and linkage is about $90.00; about an hour's job to install it. I wrote a Tech Bench article on it (with photos) in the March, 2004 issue of "Corvette Enthusiast" magazine.

 

[Ronald]

The switch (which includes the wiring pigtail and connector to the connector on the firewall), bracket, and linkage is about $90.00; about an hour's job to install it. I wrote a Tech Bench article on it (with photos) in the March, 2004 issue of "Corvette Enthusiast" magazine.

Thanks a lot John, I'll look for the article. I appreciate your help.

 

[266s]

266s

I am wanting to keep my bezels (trim) and replace the sockets with LED’s. How do you remove the socket?

 

[Tom Bryant]

Welcome to the CAC

Corvette Central has a LED set that just requires removing the stock lens and bulb and plugging the led wire base into the original bulb socket. This would be the easy way to do it. You can also buy LED bulbs with 1157 bases for front turn/park lights and 1156 bases for backup lights.

You will have to switch to a flasher for the led system because the voltage is lower and they will flash way too fast if you don't have the right flasher.

Tom

LED Kit