timotheous
Well-known member
After several years of worrying about it, not knowing for sure what it involves, I finally replaced the rear hatch weatherstripping this weekend. I thought those in a similar position (ie worried about the job) might appreciate a little post-mortem:
1. Got the part from Ecklers ($99) - they are always good with shipping, product, etc. (in my experience anyway).
2. Removed the rear hatch trim, both side trim panels, and all screws on roof trim (there was some question in my mind as to whether or not this would be necessary but it was).
3. Popped out struts easily - they pry off easily using a screw driver against the small retaining clip - NO NEED to use a wrench or take anything apart - they pop in and out very easily (I supported the glass using bungy cords hooked to the roof of the garage).
4. Popped out rear courtesy light panel and fixture as there is a screw holding trim panels that you can only get at this way.
5. Once all of the necessary trim was removed or loosened (as per the roof trim), I took out the old weatherstripping easily. I then cleaned the mess left behind with paper towels and a bit of varsol (doesn't hurt the paint, just wash it off afterward).
6. This is the BIG ONE - To GLUE or not to GLUE? Definitely, without a doubt, you do NOT need glue for this job. Briefly, the weatherstripping consists of two pieces - rubber and plastic. The rubber is glued to a plastic frame that has a channel containing the same kind of greasy substance as was there from the factory. Once you start pressing it in, you'll see it and feel it coming together with the frame of the car. All you have to do is work it in from the center outward and that's all there is to it. I think they use this grease rather than glue to allow some natural flex (prevent ripping) and to ensure a water seal through the channel.
In sum, you should definitely tackle this job if your weatherstripping is shot. It's not hard at all. Kind of messy cleaning up from the old weatherstripping, but no problem putting the new one in. Supplies needed: Screwdriver, paper towels, varsol, and confidence.
1. Got the part from Ecklers ($99) - they are always good with shipping, product, etc. (in my experience anyway).
2. Removed the rear hatch trim, both side trim panels, and all screws on roof trim (there was some question in my mind as to whether or not this would be necessary but it was).
3. Popped out struts easily - they pry off easily using a screw driver against the small retaining clip - NO NEED to use a wrench or take anything apart - they pop in and out very easily (I supported the glass using bungy cords hooked to the roof of the garage).
4. Popped out rear courtesy light panel and fixture as there is a screw holding trim panels that you can only get at this way.
5. Once all of the necessary trim was removed or loosened (as per the roof trim), I took out the old weatherstripping easily. I then cleaned the mess left behind with paper towels and a bit of varsol (doesn't hurt the paint, just wash it off afterward).
6. This is the BIG ONE - To GLUE or not to GLUE? Definitely, without a doubt, you do NOT need glue for this job. Briefly, the weatherstripping consists of two pieces - rubber and plastic. The rubber is glued to a plastic frame that has a channel containing the same kind of greasy substance as was there from the factory. Once you start pressing it in, you'll see it and feel it coming together with the frame of the car. All you have to do is work it in from the center outward and that's all there is to it. I think they use this grease rather than glue to allow some natural flex (prevent ripping) and to ensure a water seal through the channel.
In sum, you should definitely tackle this job if your weatherstripping is shot. It's not hard at all. Kind of messy cleaning up from the old weatherstripping, but no problem putting the new one in. Supplies needed: Screwdriver, paper towels, varsol, and confidence.
!
