C4 Rear Wheel Bearing Assembly swap

[69MyWay]

This has to be one of the most dreaded C4 wear and tear items on the list. The rear bearing assemblies are built into a hub design and they are not intended to be serviced.

These little buggers are expensive.

I figured while I had the whole rear suspension out of the car it would be a good idea to go ahead and replace with 150K on the clicker.

In these photos, the one on the left is the new one. It is a National Bearing Brand made in the USA. The design is slightly different than the stock one. Without being an engineer, I can't say for sure, but my gut instinct is that it is a better design. It has a machined rear boss head that the seal sits below instead of on top. The main body is a tad thicker, and the rest of it looks very high quality.

I picked them up a Discount Auto Parts or better known as Advance Auto in other areas of the country for about $123 per side.

 

[69MyWay]

Here is another angle.

Obviously (I hope), the one on the right is the original unit. I realize that exterior looks mean nothing regarding the overall life expectancy of this kind of part, buy you have to admit the original one is pretty nasty.

 

[rrubel]

Just as an FYI, I was talking to a place at Carlisle this year that sells/rebuilds wheel bearings. Was told that a) AC Delco bearings are about the best you can buy, and b) when you're torquing on the axle nut, ignore the printed torque spec and give it as much as you can. They *claim* that they've seen the nut loosen when only tightened to the 150 or so lb-ft that's specified, and that they've put over 1000 lb-ft on one as a test and there was no damage to any component.

FWIW...
[RICHR]

 

[Willycool]

Wheel Hubs

Tx for the info....my front ones need to be replaced.
Its my winter project.

That was 132.00 U.S.?


Willycool

:Twist

 

[69MyWay]

Re: Wheel Hubs

Tx for the info....my front ones need to be replaced.
Its my winter project.

That was 132.00 U.S.?


Willycool

:Twist

$123 and some change US for the rear. It looks like the fronts are $164.

try this link:

Advance Auto Parts Front Hub Bearing (32073 Zip code)


or just search here:

www.advanceautoparts.com

 

[No Go]

I use Pep Boys rear wheel bearings...made by NDH...same as AC Delco!

They have free lifetime replacements so if you race your car much, you will use this...whoops, I mean if you use your car heavily then...

Cost was 99 bucks but now gone up to 139 I think.

Also a 94 Firebird front wheel bearing will work on the front with minimal modifications...just drill out the threads on the bearing. Much cheaper than a Vette part!

Others have given me the info...works great!

 

[Radar]

I think I would stay with the Delco product. If the first set went 150K why change to different brand. 150K seems like excellent service life to me.

Radar

 

[rrubel]

No Go, I don't believe the Pep Boys bearings have lifetime warrenties any longer. I was quoted 90 days for rebuilt, 1 year for new, last spring when I did mine.
[RICHR]

 

[vigman]

Going to check out the 94 firebird tip

My front bearings are just a TAD loose ( 135K)

so the local auto parts store ordered one in for me... will let you know.


Vig!

 

[69MyWay]

I typically stick with AC delco when possible. However, the physical exterior look and feel of these other bearings appear to be high quality. There is some litterature included with the units that explain how they have been redesigned for certain reasons over the OEM application for longer life, better seals, etc.

Plus, when you consider I am doing a complete suspension rebuild right now and pushing $2,500 in just parts......every dime of cost savings counts.


I never heard of the firebird trick. I will have to check that out as well.

 

[No Go]

That is true, but not all stores are the same. Try calling around and you will find one that offers the lifetime warranty-be sure to get the proper paperwork and then you are golden from then on.

I have returned 3 rear bearings for new ones...no questions asked. If you compare the OEM originals to NDH (Pep Boys) bearings they are identical-seals, lousy paint, stud markings, etc.

I would suggest adding a bit of lubricant to beneath the axle nut when torquing to 166 ft/lbs as I did not do this and believe I ruined one set of bearings prematurely-not tight enough. It is a 36 mm nut while the torx bits are T55.

The firebird part is has threads in it while the Corvette part uses a bolt and nut to attach to front hub...just remove threads (I believe I used a 29/64 bit).

 

[rrubel]

Sounds like NDH rebuilds original AC Delco ones...

For better or worse, we've only got one Pep Boys locally, so I guess I'm SOL. I think my right side rear is going now . It had been replaced sometime before I owned the car.
[RICHR]

 

[vigman]

Hey No Go?

Why could you not use the threads in the flange.. and put nuts to back it up... do the holes line up?



Vig!

 

[No Go]

You can do that, but there is a rather lightweight bracket that is attached to the ends of the bolts with even lighterweight nuts...

Some have eliminated these lightweight nuts and just included the bracket within the hub bolt and nuts and torqued the whole deal to the high rating along with reversing the bolt direction.

Sounds confusing, but if you look at them side by side and your car, it all makes sense.

Also note, I only know these will work on 91 to 96 Corvettes-I'm not familiar with earlier models...it does have an ABS sensor integrated into the hub-compatible with the Corvette system...

 

[vigman]

The 88 has ABS too!

86 was the first year of ABS.. but I do not know the style differences.... the price from the local auto parts store is the same as the Mid America catalog... I'll go look @ it today!


Vig!