can't get my rear rotors off

[manofsteel]

Have a '73 vette and I need to adjust the parking brakes. Of course, the rotors do not have the holes drilled to be able to adjust them. So, I drilll one out and they must be frozen. Terrible trying to drill them while on car. Trying to take calipers off to get to the insides and of course the bolts are frozen. Did learn one thing, a 12 point socket does not work well with a 6 point bolt head. Lots of brake lines in the way in order to get rachet wrench with 6 point socket on the bolts. So, I was thinking of splitting the calipers. What do you all think on how to do this job. The adjuster inside must be jammed or something because I ccould not adjust them, would not move.. Thanks

 

[GTR1999]

Do not split the calipers, if you rounded off the caliper bolt hexs(5/8) then try a set of gripper sockets sold by Sears, they might get them out. Shoot some PB blaster or Koil on them first.
The rotors are riveted to the spindles so will have to drill all 5 out and be careful to do them on center. I have a thread on this job and dialing in the rotors, it's not here but on DC. If allowed I can link it for you or just PM me.
If the rotors are riveted then the hardware is rust siezed more likely and will require some new parts at a minimum.

 

[73shark]

If you go to all of the trouble of removing the rotors to get to the parking brakes, I recommend putting in a stainless steel kit so you don't have to do it again. You will probably find a nice, rusty mess when you get the rotor off.

Are you saying that hole in the rotor didn't line up w/ the hole in the spindle or there wasn't an adjustment hole in the rotor?

While you're at it, check the crossover cable that connects the two sides together because if the parking brake is used infrequently and you're in the rust belt, the cable is probably as frozen as the brake shoes are. Good luck.

 

[manofsteel]

There were no holes for doing the parking brake adjustment. Also can not get the bolts that holds the caliper loose. The cable and adjuster under the car works great, but cannot get it tight enough for the parking brake to hold the car.

 

[Hib Halverson]

I agree with "GTR1999"...don't split the calipers to get them off. Also, I agree with "73Shark" that you need to replace the OE parking brake parts with one of the rebuild kits that includes stainless steel parts. A good source for that is Zip Products.

One issue I'm having trouble with is the lack of clarity in some of the first post, so...a couple of questions.

1) Do the existing rear rotors have rivets holding them to the axles? I ask because I've never heard of original rotors not having the holes for the PB adjustment.

2) What were you trying to drill? New holes for parking brake adjustment or the rivets?

As for the caliper mounting bolts, I'd move the brake lines then buy a 6-pt socket along with a can of Aerokroil or Silikroil penetrant. Spray it on and let it work for several hours, then get out your 1/2-drive breaker bar and that new 6-pt socket and try and break them loose.

Good luck.

 

[manofsteel]

Parking Brakes

As far as knowing if they are riveted to the spindle, I'm not sure. If they are, what am I looking for? To me, that seems like a pretty dumb design.
I am try to drill out one hole to put my tool into and adjust the parking brake adjuster. Thanks for the help and all is welcomed.

 

[73shark]

The rivets that hold the rotor on are located between each wheel stud in a countersunk hole. The rear rotors have a hole between one of the studs and the rivet which aligns w/ a hole in the spindle flange. This is the hole that allows the adjustment of the parking brake.

If some or all of this does not fit your's, then someone has removed the rear rotors previously. Or maybe I'm just not understanding the problem. A picture would help.

As far as the design goes, the rotor was riveted to the spindle so it could be trued to the centerline of rotation to prevent/minimize caliper piston pumping.

 

[6880 Mike]

...As far as knowing if they are riveted to the spindle, I'm not sure. If they are, what am I looking for?...I am try to drill out one hole to put my tool into and adjust the parking brake adjuster....

Sounds like you are trying to do this without a chassis service manual. You are doing much more work than you need to do. Take a break; order the chassis service manaual, read through the brakes section, then go back to work.

Index the rotors before you remove them.

 

[racerone27]

to get the liper mounting bolts loose, i always have a combination end wrench [open one end, closed the other] the size of the bolts. get a 3 pound shorty sledge hammer. place the closed side of the end wrench on the bolt as horizontilly as you can. hold the wrench on the bolt with one hand and firmly strike the other end of the wrench with the hammer. a coulple of solid raps to the wrench will loosen it. if your right handed do the left side first. it's easier to hit the wrench and hold it at the same time. be persistant. make sure the closed end is on the bolt head good and square. think positive. these things will come out after a few trys.

steve pastorino

 

[Bwmurph]

Where are you in DE ? I did this to my '71 last summer (with much wailing and gnashing of teeth) and woudl be glad to offer my limited experience with this if your close by. I'm in Newark.

Bernie O

 

[dadoctaisin]

Dadoctaisin

The rivets that hold the rotor on are located between each wheel stud in a countersunk hole. The rear rotors have a hole between one of the studs and the rivet which aligns w/ a hole in the spindle flange. This is the hole that allows the adjustment of the parking brake.

If some or all of this does not fit your's, then someone has removed the rear rotors previously. Or maybe I'm just not understanding the problem. A picture would help.

As far as the design goes, the rotor was riveted to the spindle so it could be trued to the centerline of rotation to prevent/minimize caliper piston pumping.

Dadoctaisin: Four of the five pins have been drilled through. The other one seems to to be broke of partially. Someone may have tried to chisel it and it broke off leaving a jagged pin. I'm guessing that in order to remove the rotor I will have to drill the fifth broken off pin out. then what?
Beat the rotor to lossen it?

 

[73shark]

If there's still a portion of the head of the rivet present, then you'll need to drill the rest out and drive the rivet out. Removing the rotor may require soaking w/ Kroil and some persuasion to get it off.

Post a pic if this doesn't work.

Also since this is an original rotor, mark its location on the spindle and which side as they were machined at the factory after mounting on the spindle. (See post #7)

BTW, welcome to the forum.

 

[dadoctaisin]

Dadoctaisin

If there's still a portion of the head of the rivet present, then you'll need to drill the rest out and drive the rivet out. Removing the rotor may require soaking w/ Kroil and some persuasion to get it off.

Post a pic if this doesn't work.

Also since this is an original rotor, mark its location on the spindle and which side as they were machined at the factory after mounting on the spindle. (See post #7)

BTW, welcome to the forum.

Well, I tried top post two pic of the rotors, but can't seem to get them to showup in my post. I will drill them after they soak for a while.

 

[Antz81]

Welcome to the CAC dadoctaisin.

It's hard to see in the photos that you have uploaded, have you drilled all the way through the rivets? I found I had to drill most of the rivet out before I could punch the rest out and get my rotors off.

 

[bill81vette]

Welcome to CAC!!!!
Good luck


Sent from my XT1650 using Tapatalk

 

[dadoctaisin]

Dadoctaisin

Welcome to the CAC dadoctaisin.

It's hard to see in the photos that you have uploaded, have you drilled all the way through the rivets? I found I had to drill most of the rivet out before I could punch the rest out and get my rotors off.

I really appreciate your help Antz81. I can stick a screwdriver all the way through all five pin holes of the rotor. So I will drill out what looks like a broken off lug and go from there as you suggested. Thanks again.

 

[73shark]

Don't forget to index the rotor to the hub.

 

[Antz81]

Don't forget to index the rotor to the hub.

On the rear you only need to remember which side each rotor belongs to. The holes for adjusting the parking brake will only line up in one position.

 

[dadoctaisin]

DaDoctaisin

I really appreciate your help Antz81. I can stick a screwdriver all the way through all five pin holes of the rotor. So I will drill out what looks like a broken off rotor and go from there as you suggested. Thanks again.

Hi. I drilled the pins out and got the rotors off. The reason that I wanted to get the rotors off was to replace all ten of the Lug Nut Bolts on the rear because three of them broke off. I used a 3/4" ball joint separator tool from Harbor Freight (Item #99849) to get one out but it was too long to come completely out because of the plate located behind the rotor. So looks like I need to remove the plate.
I have a Assembly manual for 1971 but I didn't see anything in it concerning how to remove that plate. So can you give me some pointers on that (I see 4 bolts that mounts it).

Lastly, concerning the(3) broken off lug nut studs, the tool that i used to get the one stud out doesn't have anything for the tool to press on in order to push it through, so how do I get those off. Or what kind of tool is there that can be used to remove all of these lug nut bolts broken off or not.
Thank you so much Antz81. Any (all) the help you can give me is more than welcomed.

 

[Antz81]

Hi. I drilled the pins out and got the rotors off. The reason that I wanted to get the rotors off was to replace all ten of the Lug Nut Bolts on the rear because three of them broke off. I used a 3/4" ball joint separator tool from Harbor Freight (Item #99849) to get one out but it was too long to come completely out because of the plate located behind the rotor. So looks like I need to remove the plate.
I have a Assembly manual for 1971 but I didn't see anything in it concerning how to remove that plate. So can you give me some pointers on that (I see 4 bolts that mounts it).

Lastly, concerning the(3) broken off lug nut studs, the tool that i used to get the one stud out doesn't have anything for the tool to press on in order to push it through, so how do I get those off. Or what kind of tool is there that can be used to remove all of these lug nut bolts broken off or not.
Thank you so much Antz81. Any (all) the help you can give me is more than welcomed.

This is a far bigger job than you think. To be able to remove and install the studs the spindle needs to be removed which means new bearings too. You may be better to remove your trailing arms and send them to vbandp and get a rebuilt ones.