Car Not Turning Over!

[82shark]

:ugh I asked this question a while back, and tried a few steps to fix. When I put the key in, all is fine, electricals light up, here the fuel pump sending, but when I attempt to turn it over, "nothing". Three possibilities fromw what folks have told me on here

1. Battery, replaced with Optima Red top. Not a problem

2. Clutch not depressed far enough to trigger, don't think this is a problem, I've pushed it through the floor.

3. Ignition/Key VATS system, tried spare key, same result

The problem is sporadic, happens usually at the morning start up, but once I've cursed and tried a few things, it will eventually start. But it scares me that I might get stranded somewhere. Once warmed up and driven a while, doesn't do it no more for that day. If it is the VATS system, could using a product like Eckler's sells a "security system Override" make it driveable? Its not fixing the problem but disabling the security system at the wiring harness. Would this make the car "safe to drive" and worry free?
ED :cry

 

[6 Shooter]

"2. Clutch not depressed far enough to trigger, don't think this is a problem, I've pushed it through the floor."

I don't know what type of sensor senses the clutch is depressed, I wonder if it might be intermittent.

 

[82shark]

Additional Information

I ran the codes and i got the following
IPC
U1016H Loss of Comm with PCM
U1064H """""""" BCM
U1040H """"""' TCS
U1176H """""""" RFA
U1088H ?

RADIO
U1064H
U1016H
U1096H

Any chance if any of these has something to do with the intermittent not starting problem?

 

[82shark]

Car in the Shop

:eyerole
we'll see if they can fix it. They called me today and told me it started fine and could find nothing wrong with it. I told them it was intermittent. They said they'd keep it a while more and try it again a few times. I have the feeling this is one of those problems that will never get fixed. Anyone have any suggestions on correct routes to take with the "dealership"? I would think a saavy GM engineer could troubleshoot it and narrow it down to 1 or two parts to check.

Any help would be appreciated.
ED

 

[LLC5]

You need an active problem for an accurate diagnosis. If the battery and cables are good, it could be a starter going bad.

 

[currentman]

in reference to the clutch, you would need to check the switch with a meter to make sure you have continuity, it should read "OL" in the up position, 0 ohms when depressed.

if it was your vats system, you should be seeing a solid security light.

the most probable culprit is your loss of communication code, if the BCM cant communicate with the VCM the car will not start

intermitant problems are very hard to diagnose, additionally, you should check that your groungs are all good, and not heavily corroded, poor ground can cause a multitude of electrical problems

 

[82shark]

Thanks Currentman

in reference to the clutch, you would need to check the switch with a meter to make sure you have continuity, it should read "OL" in the up position, 0 ohms when depressed.

if it was your vats system, you should be seeing a solid security light.

the most probable culprit is your loss of communication code, if the BCM cant communicate with the VCM the car will not start

intermitant problems are very hard to diagnose, additionally, you should check that your groungs are all good, and not heavily corroded, poor ground can cause a multitude of electrical problems

Do you mean the PCM (not VCM)? If so, wouldn't it throw a code or something if the two of them weren't talking? Its not throwing codes.
ED

 

[currentman]

yes pcm (gm has been using the term vcm a lot in their new reference stuff, sorry), the problem is if there is no communication it wont always give you a code, look around the PCM connectors and make sure they are good and tight, check grounds, also, a silly question, but did you check the starter relay ?

 

[Patrick]

Hmm...

60- IPC (Instrument Panel Cluster)
U1016H Loss of Communications with PCM (Powertrain Control Module)
U1064H Loss of Communications with BCM (Body Control Module)
U1040H Loss of Communications with TCS (Traction Control System)
U1176H Loss of Communications with RFA (Remote Function Actuation)
U1088H ? (I also did not find a reference to this. Is the code number correct? The closest I found was U1166 Loss of Communications with SCM-Seat Control Module)

RADIO
U1064H Loss of Communications with BCM (Body Control Module)
U1016H Loss of Communications with PCM (Powertrain Control Module)
U1096H Loss of Communications with IPC (Instrument Panel Cluster)

All of these read as History Codes, which means they can be cleared. I tend to view these codes as symptoms of a larger problem, sort of like having a fever, nausea and chills as symptoms of having the flu. The frequency of the "loss of communications" is key here. I think Currentman is onto the likely culprit: check your connectors and grounds. If one or more of them are loose, it may cause an intermittent problem.

Good luck, 82Shark. And keep us informed what your dealership finds.


-Patrick

 

[Villain]

Is the car not making a sound? If not, do you have an aftermarket car alarm or remote entry?
I had a problem with my Honda Accord which gave the same symptoms. All accessories worked, relays kicked off and on but the car wouldn't turn over. No starter action at all. I removed the alarm system and she fired right up. The alarm system brain had malfunctioned. Let me know.

 

[82shark]

It might be the stock VATS system

It still does it, but I've found that gently lifting the key as I turn the ignition seems to take care of it. Seems like the ignition is not making good contact with the resistor in the key. Has anyone used the security system bypass Ecklers sells?
Ed

Is the car not making a sound? If not, do you have an aftermarket car alarm or remote entry?
I had a problem with my Honda Accord which gave the same symptoms. All accessories worked, relays kicked off and on but the car wouldn't turn over. No starter action at all. I removed the alarm system and she fired right up. The alarm system brain had malfunctioned. Let me know.

 

[gmjunkie]

It still does it, but I've found that gently lifting the key as I turn the ignition seems to take care of it. Seems like the ignition is not making good contact with the resistor in the key. Has anyone used the security system bypass Ecklers sells?
Ed

It's a VAT'S Problem!!!! The contact's in Ing. Switch are worn and probably the the resister in Key too!! It's Possible to put a new resister in KEY"S and it will work for a while!! Do you keep the key's in your pocket all the time?? Maybe the change and thing's you have in with them are wearing against them!! Or it maybe contact's in switch!! Try spraying electrical cleaner in Switch, it can't hurt!! junk!!