Changing U-joints

[garoo87]

I'd like some advice about changing u-joints for an '87. I have a fair amount of mechanical ability, and plenty of hand tools, and I'm always looking for an excuse to buy more , but I've never changed u-joints on a half-shaft. I think it's time though, because I get a clunking noise from the rear-end when I engage the clutch. There seems to be a bit of slop there. So, can anyone tell me if this is something I can do in my garage? Are there special tools required or procedures to follow? I've got a Hanes manual, but haven't really read that section thoroughly, I'm just looking for any complications that may arise. Thanks!

 

[vader86]

ditch the Haynes and buy a Helm

I think you need a press to change the U-joints, but otherwise its not terribly difficult from what ive seen and read.

 

[JonM]

It can be done with a vise and some old sockets, but you need to make sure your vise jaws open up enough.

http://home.attbi.com/~jamislow/HalfAxel.jpg

and

http://home.attbi.com/~jamislow/HalfAxel1.jpg

 

[Eagle85C4]

I replaced the ones in mine on the ground with a hammer and some sockets. Hard job is getting the shafts out. Unhook shock at bottom, remove bolt on spring, and remove trailing arm at rear. Then undo brackets for the ujoints at both ends. Pull out hub at bottom and the shaft needs to be moved up at the differential end pulled out then down.

Have fun....

 

[DkBG]

The main thing you need to watch is to not let any of the needle bearings fall over in the cap . When I put them back together I put the joint in with all 4 caps removed , set one cap in place and insert the cross in the cap as far as you can . Press or pound that cap in all the way , then set the other cap in place . Pull the cross part way out of the first cap and part way into the second , so that the cross is started well into the bearing of both caps . Then press or pound the second cap in . It should turn tightly but smoothly . Also pay attention to which way the zerk is pointing .Cliff

 

[Ken]

As for the car itself, I was just installing some long wheel studs on my '87 and the bearing assembly had to be removed to accomodate the length of the new studs (I couldn't get it in the hole from behind the flange. (:L Go ahead and make what you will out of that last sentence. :L)

Anyhow, in order to reach the top bolts for the bearing assembly I thought it might be easier if I removed the half shafts; I couldn't do it. I took the straps (?) completely off but there just wasn't room to remove the shaft. It is a real tight fit between the differential yoke and the spindle yoke. I never did remove the half shaft, I simply worked around it, but I am interested in how the half shaft is removed in order to change u-joints. Hopefully someone will address that issue here.

_ken

 

[Eagle85C4]

Because of the design , the half shaft acts as the lower A frame if you will....

As I stated above, remove the lower shock nut and pull the shock off the hub assembly, then remove the bolt that holds the spring on , then remove the bolt for the lower trailing arm.
Then undo the straps for the u-joints....pull out on the bottom of the hub assembly, this will give you room to move the shaft. At the differential end rotate the shaft so the caps are straight up and down, use the play to push that end of the shaft up and over the differential, then push the shaft towards the center of the car which pulls it out of the hub assembly, then lower the hub end and slide it out. Took me all of 20 minutes to have the shaft on the ground. Just use a bit of patience....it is better then removing the whole hub which then requires an alignment.

 

[Ken]

Thanks Ray.

_ken