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Chassis lubrication (bushings)

Glide

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 23, 2007
Messages
118
Location
Charles Town, WV
Corvette
1971 Shark, 1985 C4, 2011 C6, 99 FRC. 66 Coupe
I'm lubricating the chassis while its up on blocks. I know about all the grease fittings. My Hayne's manual mentions spaying silicone lubricant on the weatherstripping to keep it soft and plyable. Could/should I lubricate bushings under the car the same way? Is there another way of treating said bushings? Or should I just leave them alone? I know petroleum products are not used because they will break down the rubber, or so I'm told. Thanks!

Maybe see ya at the Corvette Challange in Richmopnd later this month...
 
I would leave the bushings alone. Adding a lubricant between the surface and the metal may quiet any squeaks, but as soon as it dries up (and spray silicone will) squeaks can return and possibly be louder or squeal constantly. And you won't be really able to get the silicone to cover all of the interior surface of the rubber.

If you have the original bushings still in the car, they are 22 years old and the compounds in the rubber have long since dries out. Chances are there are indications of cracking at the edges, and there will be deformation of the bushing itself. Deformed bushings make it harder to get an accurate wheel alignment and handling suffers compared to new bushings.

I would consider replacing the control arm bushings in both front and rear as long as the car is not in use.
 
Well said! And would you have a source for these bushings since Chevrolet seems to have discontoued making parts for the C-4? Thanks!

The project comtinues...:W
 
Check out Vette Brakes and Products.

http://vbandp.com

Just be careful and follow the instructions to the "T".

Better yet, call them personally and make sure they have the proper instructions on their website.

Ask me how I know!!! :mad

Their products are great! Customer service...........I'd rather not say!

The bushings they have designed will actually make your Vette handle better! Mine is awesome, now, to tell you the truth.
SAVE THE :w
 
I would leave the bushings alone. Adding a lubricant between the surface and the metal may quiet any squeaks, but as soon as it dries up (and spray silicone will) squeaks can return and possibly be louder or squeal constantly. And you won't be really able to get the silicone to cover all of the interior surface of the rubber.

If you have the original bushings still in the car, they are 22 years old and the compounds in the rubber have long since dries out. Chances are there are indications of cracking at the edges, and there will be deformation of the bushing itself. Deformed bushings make it harder to get an accurate wheel alignment and handling suffers compared to new bushings.

I would consider replacing the control arm bushings in both front and rear as long as the car is not in use.

I kinda use silicone on all the underworks of all my cars....always have, and with good results. Very few bushing or boot replacements. It's waterproof and safe! Here is where the problem lies...IMO

Some of the chemical suppliers used to send their
salespeople out with a stack of styrofoam cups to
sell silicone spray. If you try some silicone sprays
they melt the cups ( as gasoline does ), if you use
the good stuff there is no harm done to the cups....
Something to do with the propellants not the silicone.
 
Thanks Robertway! Took my styrafoam cups to the store with be. Found and "passed" on a couple "bad" silicones, then I bought "Liquid Wrench Silicone" and did all my dry bushings.
 

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