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Clutch replacement

a69vette

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 20, 2001
Messages
264
Location
Valrico, Fl.
Corvette
1969 Triple Black Convertible: 2014 Crys Red Conv
It looks like I have to change my clutch after installing my new 3.36 rear end. What would you recommend?
OEM?
Aftermarket?
Hayes?
Luk?
Center Force?
This is one job that I have already done, and after this time....I don't want to do it again.
Thanks for your imput.
Rick
 
I just put a hays street/strip setup in my 71 with the zz4. Man the pedal is stiff, the clutch holds great.

Mark B.
 
I run a CenterForce clutch in my '81, 350/330hp. It is fairly easy on the left leg, and the clamping force increases as the rev's increase. It is hard to "slip" this clutch. They are a little noisy at idle...what I mean by that is, the weights on the diaphram fingers "clatter" a little at idle. It's barely audible, but sometimes noticable. And I did notice that you get a slight "whine" as the rev's increase, due to the weights. It actually sounds pretty cool. So far this is the best clutch I have had out of all the different clutches I have used over the years. And that is my .02 cents.
Sarge:w
 
Sarge,
Was that the "dual friction" model? I was told that clutch was their best.

Rick
 
I've used Centerforce II's in the last six or seven project cars I've built, and they're terrific - smooth engagement, great grip, and low pedal pressure. If you're really going to hammer it frequently, the Dual-Friction may be a better choice, but I've never seen the need, including three Cobras and a very stout 383 in a tube-frame Grand Sport, all of which got hammered regularly. Next best bet is a LuK - they make the OEM Viper clutch, which has proven superior to ANY of the "tuner" Viper clutches.
 
Center Force are great I run them in my race car, a 69 vett autocross car that I run hard at high speed to. Both me and my wife drive it. The one I have in there now has been in there 3 years. It is the one just 30% better then stock I think the dual-friction hits a little to hard my son had it in his car.
 
I hear a lot of good things about Center Force. Someone said you pay a lot for the name. I do not want to over clutch the car (make it not appear normal), but this is one job I only want to do about 1 more time (for a while). The only possible hard mix is, I have the M21 trans. with a new 3.36 rear end. The 350hp are put to GREAT use once your going. Seems just a little hard to start off. The car used to have a 4.11 so take off was a breeze, and easy to turn the tires over. I am thinking now that the 3.36 won't turn the tires over as easy on start, so the give is coming out of the clutch.
Rick
 
Yes, it is the dual friction clutch. It cost a bit more than the average clutch, but it is the optimum in both left leg friendly and one hell of a grip. If memory serves me well...I think that the clutch unit was around $300.00. That was about 2 yrs. ago.
Sarge
 
Do any of you guys know how much torque any of those clutches can handle?

I am going to shoot for over 400ftlbs and maybe even 500. I just had the clutch replaced with a Borg&Warner clutch but its not better than the OEM, in fact its hard to cruise (by cruise I mean where everybody shows off their rides, she can't take the constant stop-go) after a while the thing starts to slip a bit.

I figure if I am going to replace it with a better one it should handle any future modifications to the engine.

Frank
 
I went with a Quartermaster "street" clutch in my 69. Since I used them for the hydraulic clutch release bearing, and flywheel, I thought only natural to pursue them on the entire package.

Turns out that they make some really nice stuff. I had a Centerforce in my V8 Fiero with the dual friction design. The only good I can say about that one is that Centerforce was good about working with me, and inspected the clutch assembly for me after my repeated complaints of slippage starting around 1,000 miles. The customer service was great. The product in that application did not hold up.

I am surprised you killed your clutch so fast. Is there any chance that the clutch fork is just getting hung up or something and not releasing all the way?

If you killed a OEM style one that quick and you are not racing the car, you might want to take a real close look at the trans when you have it out. Look at the shaft that the input shaft comes out of and the throwout bearing rides on. If it has a groove worked in it, and it is even worked off center and distored, then your clutch may be releasing without centered smooth pressure, causing uneven wear and damage to the fingers in the pressure plate over time. Or, the throwout bearing may be hung up on the groove and not taking full pressure back off the clutch assembly. You might also need to adjust your clutch linkage and make sure that as the clutch has worn down that you linkage is still floating out enough to allow full release.

The snouts are available new, and take about 4 minutes to unbolt, scrape the gasket, and install the new one (of course after the trans has been removed). This is often over looked by the majority of do it yourselfers and even shops that replace the clutch assembly. I was able to get a new snout for my trans for about $15 from my local trans guy.

Either way you go, good luck.

You need to get it up and rolling so we can cruise Sharkfest together.


Chris
 
The snouts are available new, and take about 4 minutes to unbolt, scrape the gasket, and install the new one

OK, You got me. ????? What am I looking for?

Rick
 
Don`t be tempted by any of these fancy race clutches, they make the car a proper PITA to drive around town. I payed over a $1000 for the Quartermaster in my car and as Chis said they are superbly engineered but you don`t want anything to close up front when you take off.

J.
 
Reading most of these posts, I'm thinking that the Center Force II is what I might need. But I won't be able to get on this job for about 2 weeks. So, I'll be looking for all the input I can get.
Thanks,
Rick
 
Rick, go on my web site, go to the photos section, then cruise through the 69 photos. I can't remember if it is the car build, or the big block build, but I took a picture of the old trans snout with the hydraulic release bearing sitting on it.

Because the bearing is sitting on it in the photo, you can see the grooves that were in my old one.

But, it should give you an idea of the part you are looking for to be worn.

Listen to JHL, you want a full "street" clutch. Even with my projected extreme hp and torque, I went with the Street Version of the QM so that the car would be easy to drive.
 
Chris, Homepage address??

Rick
 
I think I see the pic (Titled "back up switch). Ask any trany shop if they have it available?

Rick
 
I have found the Center Force II for $ 246.00. Does anyone know if this is a good price??

Thank,
Rick
 
Hi guys, I will be replacing the clutch when I do my engine swap. I've been looking at the Centerforce dual friction.
Summit offers 2 Centerforce clutches for my car, the difference is $5.00, and one has 10.4" and one has 11" disc size.

Which do I need and why?
I have a 350, M-20.
 
dshanks said:
Hi guys, I will be replacing the clutch when I do my engine swap. I've been looking at the Centerforce dual friction.
Summit offers 2 Centerforce clutches for my car, the difference is $5.00, and one has 10.4" and one has 11" disc size.

Which do I need and why?
I have a 350, M-20.

Assuming you have the original flywheel and bellhousing (and you don't have an original LT-1), you need the 10.4" clutch; your flywheel doesn't have the holes drilled for the 11" clutch. The 11" clutch requires a 14" 168-tooth flywheel (and a different starter), and that flywheel won't fit in your bellhousing.
:beer
 

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