Coil Spring replacement help.

[Tim73454]

The left front of my car has dropped about 2-2 1/2 inches maybe more. I need to replace the coils to get it back up. Springs aren't to expensive. How hard are they to install and is there anything I need to know before I start????


Tim73454

 

[GerryLP]

Tim,

Most C3 "A" arms a similar in function and design, so my experience with my 81's might help you. I removed and re-installed mine front springs last spring (that sounded weird :crazy). There is a tool that helps you compress the spring that is very handy.

To remove the spring I only used a hydraulic jack (not the handy tool) to lower the bottom "A" arm; however, to install the spring the reverse does not work as well because the lifting of the bottom "A" arm with the jack tends to raise the vehicle (specially if your motor is out of the engine bay).

The lower ball-joint has to be disconnected, and if it has not been disconnected since factory, then you gonna have to deal with the posibility of finding rivets (as oposed to nuts or bolts) that they used to secure the ball-joint to the "A" arm point.

Are you sure that it is the spring? Check all of the suspension attaching points. Also, the spring has to be positioned a certain way, or it will not give you the correct height.

 

[Jack]

Tim:
Of course, first lift & support car properly & safely ... I had six jackstands under mine. Then ya gotta remove the shocks & disconnect the swaybar links before going any further. I also took the brake calipers loose & suspended them from wire ... I left the rotors in place on the spindles. I then popped the tie rods loose from the CAs with a pickle fork & BFH.

Warning, coil springs (even when slightly compressed) can yield a LOTTA FORCE. I didn't use a spring compressor ... only a floor jack. I also used a 2-foot crowbar to help "convince" the spring into submission. You may need some wire to suspend the brake calipers.

To R&R springs, I did not have to remove/disconnect ball joints from CA ... just used a pickle fork & BFH to break the BJs loose from the spindles ... pull the cotter pin from BJ stud & loosen nut (IMPORTANT don't remove nut yet ... only loosen) until it's flush with BJ stud ... careful here because the spring will SLAM the CA down when that BJ breaks loose from the spindle ... some will break loose with just force of spring ... most (like mine) require persuasion from pickle fork & BFH. Then place the jack under the CA and just slightly load the CA ... then remove then BJ nut ... then lower jack & CA... careful here as spring may (or may not) pop out by itself ... if it doesn't fall/pop out on it own, just pry on spring a bit. Once I'd removed the springs ... I did also remove the CAs ... then R&R'd all BJs & CA bushings on bench (mine also had factory rivits). When I began to re-install the springs ... my CAs with new BJs & bushings were already in place.

It's very difficult to see into the top of the upper spring pockets ... where the top of spring seats. There's a a bump there that's meant to conform to the very end of the coil. You have to rotate the spring to properly locate it ... spring tends to dislocate itself as you begin to load it ... it'll jump from its seat ... if not properly located it causes that side of car to sit too high. It took me several tries to get it right ... several bruised digits but I still have 10.

Has this car dropped 2-2 1/2 inches just since you've owned it? Or have you determined that from another baseline? ... Sure seems like a lot of drop just from bad springs!

BTW, if you're going to the trouble to R&R springs ... that's an ideal opportunity to replace any worn front-end stuff like CA bushings, BJs etc.
JACK:gap

 

[Tim73454]

Jack and Gerry, Thanks for the tips. Got the springs this afternoon and have them in now. My only concern is the replacements were about an inch shorter than the originals out of the car. The hieght seems to be the same on the right side as before and the left side is about 2 inches higher. I still have about 3/4 of an inch difference between the sides both front and back??? Left side is lower in both cases.

Now for the good news. The ride is GREAT!!!!:s I can't believe what a difference the springs made. Best $66.00 and Two hours I have ever spent!!!!!

 

[Jack]

Check yer left pocket

Initially:

The left front of my car has dropped about 2-2 1/2 inches

Now:

The hieght seems to be the same on the right side as before and the left side is about 2 inches higher.

Tim:
Lemme get this straight (or maybe I got it wrong so correct me):

INITIALLY the LEFT FRONT had DROPPED about 2½ inches.

Then you put in two new springs.

NOW the LEFT FRONT is about 2 inches HIGHER.

It seems you've had a total L vs. R reversal ... with RF ending up about where it was. Seems that would tend to rule out a bent frame, sway bar or control arm; that is unless ... there is a frame/swaybar/CA issue ... and the old right spring was a good spring ... and the old left spring was collapsed & needed replacement. Here in USA, it's usually the right springs that die first. So, if I had to guess without looking ... Sounds like you got the right side spring in correct ... but left side spring is not seated properly and is holding left up too high. I'm not doubting your abilities ... heck if you got em both in about 2 hours yer a better man than I. But Tim, I swear those upper spring pockets can fool ya! Actually, I hope it's a spring pocket issue.
JACK:gap

 

[Tim73454]

Jack, sorry if I was unclear. The right is still right around 28 inches from the ground to the fender in the middle of the wheel. The left was around 25-25 1/2 and it is now 27 3/8 to 27 1/2.

I should have said the left is 2 inches higher then it was.

What about the springs should they have been the same hieght as the old ones??? The new ones were about an inch shorter but seem to be stronger??? Also the ends didn't line up with the pockets on top and bottom so I split the dif and diether end is in the pocket completely???


Sorry

Tim73454

 

[Jack]

Jack, sorry if I was unclear. The right is still right around 28 inches from the ground to the fender in the middle of the wheel. The left was around 25-25 1/2 and it is now 27 3/8 to 27 1/2.

I should have said the left is 2 inches higher then it was.

What about the springs should they have been the same hieght as the old ones??? The new ones were about an inch shorter but seem to be stronger??? Also the ends didn't line up with the pockets on top and bottom so I split the dif and diether end is in the pocket completely???


Sorry

Tim73454

Tim:
Got it! ... probably just my brain fog ... & just being anal. So, RF has stayed about same ... and now LF is improved but still about 1/2 - 5/8 lower than RF. All-in-all that's not such a great difference. Nevertheless, now I reverse myself ... I'd suggest re-checking the RF and index spring to top pocket. There may be a frame/swaybar/CA issue. Or a body alignment issue. I think about 73 they started using rubber body mounts as opposed to earlier solid mounts. Maybe the body mounts have compressed more on left ... that's where most of weight is since most cars are driven solo most times ... and the roadways' crown effects a jackscrew on left. But if it handles good and tires wear ok and 1/2 inch don't bother you ... I wouldn't sweat it too much. You're right about the shorter springs ... they usually have a slightly larger wire diameter so they're just as strong (or stronger) as a longer one ... when I swapped I put a gage on mine & verified it.
JACK:gap