Considering purchase of '90 ZR-1, have Q's...

[fhturner]

Hey Guys (and Gals) [sorry for the loooonnnnggg post!]--

I currently have my Corvette "fix" officially satisfied by my 2000 coupe. Unofficially, though, I've always loved the ZR-1 and have wanted one ever since riding in and driving my friend's Bright Red '90 ZR-1 back in high school. Yesterday, I took a look at another Bright Red '90 with low mileage for sale not too far from here. It has around 13,500 miles on it and the asking price is $20,000. I don't really want to incur more debt or shell out a whole bunch more money, but if I can score a deal on a ZR-1 to "supplement" my C5, I'm all for it!

When I checked out this car, I figured the low mileage would surely mean the car would be pristine. However, this was not exactly the case. While I wouldn't say it was in bad shape, there are many things that are going to need to be done. The biggest problem area for me was the interior... Anyway, I dutifully printed out my CAC Buyer's Checklist and made as many notes as I could. I'm planning to go back to the sales guy with my "gripe sheet", the intent being to push the price down as much as possible to cover the work that will be necessary. Would you guys look at some of my observations/questions and comment on them if you can? If you would, please address how each item would affect the price, in your opinion and/or what you'd expect to pay for this ZR-1.

(1) The body/paint seems to be in good shape, with one very small "spider webbing" spot in the LR fiberglass (had to really look to see it) and one small stone chip in the front of the hood. The black rub strip needs a little attention on the sides at the back, but not much. Mainly, the rub strip needs to be shined up, I believe. So, the outside looks pretty good.

(2) Tires are dry rotted. The dealership will probably be replacing them, but want to add the price of replacements (probably $900-$1000) to the sticker. This doesn't seem right to me. Shouldn't I have the right to expect usable tires w/o having to pay an add'l $1K?

(3) Did the Vacuum System leak check. When turning the key to On, the vacuum pump can be heard running w/o ever stopping. Should I demand a $1K price reduction for that (as suggested in an older thread here)? Also, despite this, engine power seemed to be good, but perhaps not as good as I expected. Can this problem cause the secondaries to "sort of work"? Full power was noticeably stronger than Normal, but still seemed a bit lacking. Maybe it was just me.

(4) On a related note, the Engine Power switch seems a little funky. When turning to Full, the "Full Engine Power" light comes on, but then turns back off when the switch "rolls" off the high spot and clicks into place. I could get it to stay on by "perching" the keyswitch on the high spot. Engine power was noticeably reduced with the switch all the way to Full, where the light turned back off. Is this a serious problem to fix, or is it simple?

(5) The stereo doesn't work. Turning the volume way up, you can start to hear something, then you're startled by a loud tone or static (can't remember exactly-- it just wasn't good). How much of a price reduction should I request for this?

(6) Rotors seemed to exhibit some signs of warpage, but this could have been the hardened, dried out tires. Or could it?

(7) The wheels are not stock, but are of the '92-'96 "turbine" style. While I like the look of these better than the stock "Cuisinart" wheels, I would prefer stock for future collectibility value. Is this a legitimate argument? Price reduction?

(8) The engine bay seems pretty dirty. Not filthy, but not cleaned recently either. I'll have to do it or have it done, so there's more $$$ or time spent. Is this a legitimate gripe (at least as far as haggling)?

(9) The interior seems to be a little faded and somewhat "dried out" on the black areas like the dash, console and steering column (interior color is Saddle). Perhaps this could be brought back with some good cleaning and protectant. Otherwise in the interior: driver's seatback switch on right side of seat is broken; don't know if memory functions work; glovebox door kinda sticks up; console padding and cover has "rolled away" from door itself on passenger side, as if opening is prying the padding away; some plastic lining is hanging out from driver side door, as if door panel was removed and put back on in a half-assed manner (also, two screws along the bottom are silver instead of black, supporting this theory); rearview mirror is loose and gets in the way of the driver's sunshade. Perhaps much of this can be fixed w/o much $$$ but with a lot of TLC. My time is worth $$$ though!

(10) The engine is slow to start up initially. Just chugs and chugs and eventually catches and fires. Bad battery? Bad starter? Carbon buildup? Cost to address?

(11) Aside from the engine power/vacuum issue and the possible rotor warpage, the driveability isn't bad. The suspension feels pretty good, as do the tranny, steering and pedals. At only 13,500, I would expect so! The oil pressure seemed to hover toward the upper end of the scale, though (well, lower end, given the gauge's orientation. Possibly sending unit, or too much oil? Or normal?

Lastly, some details on the car. It was originally delivered to CPC (Chevrolet-Pontiac-Canada) Group Engineering Center in Warren, MI. It was not titled until 1995 @ ~10,000 miles. I'm thinking it was an executive's car or maybe a test vehicle-- would this reduce its value? The VIN ends in 00066, so I'm assuming that means #66 for 1990, correct?

It has the electronic AC and only the glass roof (was hoping for both). I like the low mileage, but it doesn't look to have been kept up meticulously, which is what these cars deserve. I'm okay with that, as long as I can get it back to where it needs to be. But, what does all of this necessary work mean for the price of the car now? $16K? $17K? $18K? Or is $20K fair despite these issues?

That's all I can think of (geez, hope that's enough!). If you've read this far, I thank you. If you can spare a few more minutes to post your thoughts and comments, I'd be even more indebted to you! With any luck, I might be joining your fairly exclusive ranks in the near future!

Thanks!
Fred

 

[Jeffvette]

00066 is a internal car, which apparently has been beat on. I'll respond to some of the other questions a bit later.

 

[Bill75]

ZR1 condition

Hi Fred,

I have no experience with that model but from what you've described I can't imagine a car that has about 13k miles and being in that condition would be something I would trust too much. If you had said it had 113k I could have better related the conditions. Either the mileage is not true or somebody beat the living daylights out of the car.
Best of luck. Bill

 

[Jeffvette]

Hey Guys (and Gals) [sorry for the loooonnnnggg post!]--

(1) The body/paint seems to be in good shape, with one very small "spider webbing" spot in the LR fiberglass (had to really look to see it) and one small stone chip in the front of the hood. The black rub strip needs a little attention on the sides at the back, but not much. Mainly, the rub strip needs to be shined up, I believe. So, the outside looks pretty good.

Everything sounds ok there. The black rub strips are hard to find now, so make sure they are not damaged beyond repair

(2) Tires are dry rotted. The dealership will probably be replacing them, but want to add the price of replacements (probably $900-$1000) to the sticker. This doesn't seem right to me. Shouldn't I have the right to expect usable tires w/o having to pay an add'l $1K?

The dealership is supposed to have the car in road worthy condition, may vary in Alabama. Figure about 1k for a decent set of tires.

(3) Did the Vacuum System leak check. When turning the key to On, the vacuum pump can be heard running w/o ever stopping. Should I demand a $1K price reduction for that (as suggested in an older thread here)? Also, despite this, engine power seemed to be good, but perhaps not as good as I expected. Can this problem cause the secondaries to "sort of work"? Full power was noticeably stronger than Normal, but still seemed a bit lacking. Maybe it was just me.

More than likely a vacuum hose has been comprimised, but it could aslo be the check solenoid for the secondaries. Max of 500 will fix/replace everything.

(4) On a related note, the Engine Power switch seems a little funky. When turning to Full, the "Full Engine Power" light comes on, but then turns back off when the switch "rolls" off the high spot and clicks into place. I could get it to stay on by "perching" the keyswitch on the high spot. Engine power was noticeably reduced with the switch all the way to Full, where the light turned back off. Is this a serious problem to fix, or is it simple?

Key switch needs to be replaced. This is a 90 model part only. I have not seen very many for sale, but I've got a spare. Figure roughly 50-100, it will include spare valet keys as well.

(5) The stereo doesn't work. Turning the volume way up, you can start to hear something, then you're startled by a loud tone or static (can't remember exactly-- it just wasn't good). How much of a price reduction should I request for this?

Amps are shot on the speakers. You probably got a squeek or squall due to that. On a worse case scenario, fix amps 4x75.00 and repair headunit 275.00. And the speakers may need to be replaced. Reduce price by 1k

(6) Rotors seemed to exhibit some signs of warpage, but this could have been the hardened, dried out tires. Or could it?

I wouldn't doubt the rotors are warped. It sounds like this car had some hard driving. Pads/rotors just replace, don't turn 400

(7) The wheels are not stock, but are of the '92-'96 "turbine" style. While I like the look of these better than the stock "Cuisinart" wheels, I would prefer stock for future collectibility value. Is this a legitimate argument? Price reduction?

It is legitimate if you are looking for a all original car. The salad shooter rims are out there and I've seen them as cheap as 500. I wouldn't worry about it to much.

(8) The engine bay seems pretty dirty. Not filthy, but not cleaned recently either. I'll have to do it or have it done, so there's more $$$ or time spent. Is this a legitimate gripe (at least as far as haggling)?

Well, if the engine is stained, you can either strip and repaint or powder coat. Once it turns a dark grey and gets spots, no matter what you use it will only get worse. Just look for any signs of oil leaks. Look between the heads and injector housings and also beneat hthe engine at the oil pan area.

(9) The interior seems to be a little faded and somewhat "dried out" on the black areas like the dash, console and steering column (interior color is Saddle). Perhaps this could be brought back with some good cleaning and protectant. Otherwise in the interior: driver's seatback switch on right side of seat is broken; don't know if memory functions work; glovebox door kinda sticks up; console padding and cover has "rolled away" from door itself on passenger side, as if opening is prying the padding away; some plastic lining is hanging out from driver side door, as if door panel was removed and put back on in a half-assed manner (also, two screws along the bottom are silver instead of black, supporting this theory); rearview mirror is loose and gets in the way of the driver's sunshade. Perhaps much of this can be fixed w/o much $$$ but with a lot of TLC. My time is worth $$$ though!

There is no memory function for seats. Corvettes didn't get that luxury feature until 97. Based on your interior description, I'd figure 1k to get it back up to par. The leather being dry will probably clean up with some leather cleaner and then conditioner.

(10) The engine is slow to start up initially. Just chugs and chugs and eventually catches and fires. Bad battery? Bad starter? Carbon buildup? Cost to address?

Normal. The car is searching for the optimal firing position

(11) Aside from the engine power/vacuum issue and the possible rotor warpage, the driveability isn't bad. The suspension feels pretty good, as do the tranny, steering and pedals. At only 13,500, I would expect so! The oil pressure seemed to hover toward the upper end of the scale, though (well, lower end, given the gauge's orientation. Possibly sending unit, or too much oil? Or normal?

Shocks are probably worn. You will notcie at higher speeds a floating sensation. The oil pressure gauge will show high pressure during start up and warm up, and will drop down to the low side of the scale after it is warm and idling.

Lastly, some details on the car. It was originally delivered to CPC (Chevrolet-Pontiac-Canada) Group Engineering Center in Warren, MI. It was not titled until 1995 @ ~10,000 miles. I'm thinking it was an executive's car or maybe a test vehicle-- would this reduce its value? The VIN ends in 00066, so I'm assuming that means #66 for 1990, correct?

It has the electronic AC and only the glass roof (was hoping for both). I like the low mileage, but it doesn't look to have been kept up meticulously, which is what these cars deserve. I'm okay with that, as long as I can get it back to where it needs to be. But, what does all of this necessary work mean for the price of the car now? $16K? $17K? $18K? Or is $20K fair despite these issues?

That's all I can think of (geez, hope that's enough!). If you've read this far, I thank you. If you can spare a few more minutes to post your thoughts and comments, I'd be even more indebted to you! With any luck, I might be joining your fairly exclusive ranks in the near future!

Thanks!
Fred

Like I said earlier, 00066 was probably a GM employees car. I know car #64, and that's what his was. The value is probably not affected by it being a test vehicle or owned by a GM exec. Look for the option code C2L to see if it was originally equipped with both tops.

Cars with low miles that have sat for long periods of time are actually worse than a higher mileage car that has been taken care of. You could open a can of worms for expensive fixes.

I'd offer out 15K, as 90's with low miles and in good decent running condition are in the 20-23K range. With low color models being slightly more.

 

[fhturner]

Wow, thanks for the detailed reply, Jeff! And thanks as well for your reply, Bill! Got a few return comments and questions.

The dealership is supposed to have the car in road worthy condition, may vary in Alabama. Figure about 1k for a decent set of tires.

Should I expect to pay that (by the dealer marking up their asking price), or is it something they should cover at no extra charge?

I wouldn't doubt the rotors are warped. It sounds like this car had some hard driving. Pads/rotors just replace, don't turn 400

Why do you say hard driving? Isn't it possible that most of the negative things about this car are the result of sitting and/or not being babied enough (mainly on the inside)? Even then, those first 10,000 miles could very well have been hard. So, you think only $400 for replacing the rotors and pads? All 4 or just fronts?

There is no memory function for seats. Corvettes didn't get that luxury feature until 97.

Oh, my mistake. Then what are those three round buttons on the inside hip bolster of each seat?

Normal. The car is searching for the optimal firing position

Hmmm, really... Even if it tries to fire for several (probably 4 or 5) seconds?

Like I said earlier, 00066 was probably a GM employees car. I know car #64, and that's what his was. The value is probably not affected by it being a test vehicle or owned by a GM exec. Look for the option code C2L to see if it was originally equipped with both tops.

The window sticker shows just the "Solar" roof panel, not dual. No biggie-- I could probably get any C4 painted roof, as long as it was that color, if I wanted... Right?

Do you have any recommendations on how I could find out more about this car's history, esp. in light of the fact that it seems to have been a GM test/executive vehicle? Stupid question: When you guys say something like "1991 ZR-1 #548", does that mean the VIN ends in 00548?

I'd offer out 15K, as 90's with low miles and in good decent running condition are in the 20-23K range. With low color models being slightly more.

Okay, thanks for the suggestion! I'll go back to him with this #. I agree that since other 90's are out there at a similar price as this one, but most likely in better shape, a significantly lower price would be more appropriate.

Thanks for taking the time to help me out with this, guys! If anyone else has add'l thoughts, I'm all eyes... Although this car has some issues, I think (hope!) that with a little $$$ and elbow grease, it can be quite nice.

Thanks,
Fred

 

[Jeffvette]

Should I expect to pay that (by the dealer marking up their asking price), or is it something they should cover at no extra charge?

That is something they should cover, Most dealerships have a reonditioning charge that is added to the vehicle to get it road worthy. Needs tires, battery, windshield wipers. Especially items that are of a safety nature.

Why do you say hard driving? Isn't it possible that most of the negative things about this car are the result of sitting and/or not being babied enough (mainly on the inside)? Even then, those first 10,000 miles could very well have been hard. So, you think only $400 for replacing the rotors and pads? All 4 or just fronts?

Rotors don't warp from sitting It could just be the tires, especially if they have flat spotted. It's just something to keep in your mind. 400 is for the front rotor/pad combo.

Oh, my mistake. Then what are those three round buttons on the inside hip bolster of each seat?

Air bolster adjustments. You inlflate them, and then depending on which section you want filled, you press the button and it releases air.

Hmmm, really... Even if it tries to fire for several (probably 4 or 5) seconds?

Yep.

The window sticker shows just the "Solar" roof panel, not dual. No biggie-- I could probably get any C4 painted roof, as long as it was that color, if I wanted... Right?

Single glass top then. You can buy tops, but painting to match is a *****.

Do you have any recommendations on how I could find out more about this car's history, esp. in light of the fact that it seems to have been a GM test/executive vehicle? Stupid question: When you guys say something like "1991 ZR-1 #548", does that mean the VIN ends in 00548?

Not sure where to start. and yes, when people mention a number after their model year it's the build number. Mine is #220 from 90'

Okay, thanks for the suggestion! I'll go back to him with this #. I agree that since other 90's are out there at a similar price as this one, but most likely in better shape, a significantly lower price would be more appropriate.

I won't be surprised if he laughs. He might sit on it for a while before he realizes it's a buyers market. Even more so with the ZR-1's

Thanks for taking the time to help me out with this, guys! If anyone else has add'l thoughts, I'm all eyes... Although this car has some issues, I think (hope!) that with a little $$$ and elbow grease, it can be quite nice.

Thanks,
Fred

NP

 

[Demps]

Carfax is emailed. Look at www.zr1.net/ZR1_sale.html for a comparison of prices (if you haven't). Lynn Haven FL is in the Panama City area. I live there during the times shown and didn't see the car. There are a few folks I know there I could track down if you're really interested in this car.

I would for sure get a better price and repairs before I started putting over $20K into the car. If the car were perfect in today's market it would be worth around $23K tops, in my opinion. Add the repair costs from Jeff and subtract from there. That is the top dollar price of the car. There's another car on the ZR-1 net in AL taken on trade--or maybe this car.

If you can do the work yourself, none appears to be that tough. You will have to send out the radio and speakers.

ted

Also, take the VIN to a GM dealership's service area and see if they will run the warranty/maintenance history on the car. That will tell you some things. It will also give dates and locations of sale(s). AND, do not let them wash the engine!!!

 

[fhturner]

Carfax is emailed. Look at www.zr1.net/ZR1_sale.html for a comparison of prices (if you haven't). Lynn Haven FL is in the Panama City area. I live there during the times shown and didn't see the car. There are a few folks I know there I could track down if you're really interested in this car.
...
Also, take the VIN to a GM dealership's service area and see if they will run the warranty/maintenance history on the car. That will tell you some things. It will also give dates and locations of sale(s). AND, do not let them wash the engine!!!

Thanks, Ted (and again to Jeff)! I have also run Carfax on the car and have gotten the dealership warranty service printout. Strange thing is that the warranty printout shows almost no information. No delivering dealer, no model. Almost every field shows "N/A". I would imagine this has to do with the car's initial delivery going to the CPC Group Engineering Center in Warren, MI. I emailed the guy with a list of my concerns, so we'll see if anything changes.

L8r,
Fred

 

[fhturner]

Is the Kelley Blue Book retail value an accurate price to work from? For this car, it says the price from a dealer would be about $20,815. Of course, that...

assumes that the vehicle has been fully reconditioned and has a clean title history. The Suggested Retail Value also allows for advertising, sale commissions, insurance and other costs of doing business as a dealer. Most vehicles being offered at this price have passed an inspection and some may carry a warranty.

Obviously, this ZR-1 has NOT been reconditioned. Also...

The Suggested Retail Value is a starting point for negotiation therefore the actual sale price will vary. Popularity, condition, warranty, color and local market conditions will be factors involved in determining a final price.

Just heard back from the salesman. Here are some of his comments and my thoughts on them:

(1) And (2) The car is not a retail piece to us; it is a wholesale vehicle that is to be sent off to another dealer that specializes in these cars or to auction. I offered it to corvette clubs in the area as an alternative. If it were to be retailed we would have "reconditioned" the car. When dealers recondition the car additional money is always spent and of course additional profit must be added to that amount. Had we done all the reconditioning the tires along with everything else would be top quality However, the asking price would have been much higher. Nada on the car is 30,295.00. The new tires are now on the car and the rotors were turned. Total for this was 989.0

So, according to the KBB price and definition, the asking price (I guess it is now $20,989) is about the same as the retail price, but with none of the reconditioning, etc. that is supposed to happen at that price. Right? What about this NADA price? Pristine '90 ZR-1s have sold on eBay for $3K less than this. And this one is far from pristine... How does NADA compare to KBB?

About my Vacuum Leak comments:

(3)Another buyer said this was a minor problem, 200$ or so to rectify. Of course this would be covered under normal reconditioning.

Seems like something like this that is affecting the engine could easily get past $200, especially considering labor/time...

That was mostly it. A couple more things he cited as things that would have been covered under "reconditioning". Also, he estimated a slightly lower price for the radio repair/rebuild. Any counterpoints that you guys think I ought to make, esp. regarding price?

I just feel like this dealership is trying to pass along the car "at wholesale" (as the salesman states) but with retail pricing... Any further ammo y'all can provide would be most welcome, particularly in the overall price-- he's inferring that the car is really worth $30K (if it were cleaned up), but I think with it being in the less-than-ideal condition it's in, we should be talking well under $20K.

Thanks,
Fred

 

[Vette_Newb]

I am looking at ZR1's as well, for $21-23k you can get a VERY nice 90. That particular car does not sound nice. Sounds to me like your buying a car that you will easily have $25-27k in when you get it back in shape and then it is still worth $23k.

Here are a few that look really good, keep in mind I haven't seen these up close yet:
1990

1990

1990

1990

Thats just a few I have found, I won't put the link to the one I am most interested in (for obvious reasons lol).

Don't take a questionable ZR1 for the same money as a very nice ZR1. I know how easy it is to buy on emotion, but in this case I am being VERY disciplined.

Good Luck!

 

[Jeffvette]

I just feel like this dealership is trying to pass along the car "at wholesale" (as the salesman states) but with retail pricing... Any further ammo y'all can provide would be most welcome, particularly in the overall price-- he's inferring that the car is really worth $30K (if it were cleaned up), but I think with it being in the less-than-ideal condition it's in, we should be talking well under $20K.

Thanks,
Fred

Tell him to shove it. There is a 90 on EBay currently with only 43 miles. Watch that auction and see the final price. It will probably fetch high 20's. Apparently that car is perfect.

On this car, I would offer at most 16.5 Red on tan is a very high production color. Not exactly rare. The only thing intriguing about this car is the low VIN. Even then, it's not really worht much until you can prove who owned/drove the vehicle.

 

[fhturner]

Thanks once again for the replies, fellas!

On this car, I would offer at most 16.5 Red on tan is a very high production color. Not exactly rare.

So, I'm guessing you are now upping your initial suggestion of $15K because of the new tires and brake job, right?

I mentioned Kelley's Blue Book pricing above, but that was retail pricing, and the salesman has told me that they don't consider it a "retail piece." So, looking at KBB Private Party values, I get $16,545 for Good condition, and $15,215 for Fair condition. I'd say this car is between the two, condition-wise. Probably nothing major mechanically wrong, but definitely some cosmetic/interior/minor mechanical issues. Would y'all agree? What are your opinions on KBB pricing?

Thanks,
Fred

P.S. Meant to ask: If I suggest $16.5K, how much "negotiating" should I be prepared to do. I'm thinking, not much, but what would y'all be willing to go up to?

 

[White 68]

Do not get attached to the car because it is close to you . There are plenty of very nice Zr1,s kept up by owners that really appreciate the cars. The prices are just crazy low for how much car you get
.Also most credit union are now listing these classics as used vehicles with rates as low as 3.75-3.99% if you are not paying cash or want to conserve cash and finance instead
. I would look for the cleanest well taken care of car I could find under 30,000 miles and buy that one
. I would also considrer a car with the most common performance upgrades such as exhaust,headers,gears,etc...Most owners have the stock parts included in the deal when and if you want to convert back for the same price.

Also remember when you test drive a ZR1 take it up to 6500rpm/7000rpm and run through the gears keepin it about 4500 and you,ll feel the power '''''Its worse then crack you,ll be hooked ....I really had to relearn driving the z cause its a different animal above 4500 rpm unlike other cars I,ve owned.

 

[fhturner]

Do not get attached to the car because it is close to you . There are plenty of very nice Zr1,s kept up by owners that really appreciate the cars. The prices are just crazy low for how much car you get

Oh, I know. I'm not getting attached to this one car; in fact, I've been looking everywhere I can think of online for comparisons and to see if any good deals can be had out there. My main interest in this car is (1) the low mileage, and (2) the fact that, despite that low mileage, I should be able to get a good deal on it because it needs some attention. Of course, it is convenient that it is close-- makes it easier to check out (and acquire, if purchased). Anyway, what do you think about that Kelley Blue Book pricing (mentioned above), or about how much I should be willing to go up to on this particular car (if I start out offering $16.5K)?

L8r,
Fred

 

[Jeffvette]

I would start out at the initial 15k I had mentioned. And then go to 16.5 and see where that gets you. If no sale. Abandon it is my personal opinion. Then approach them again in a month.

 

[fhturner]

I would start out at the initial 15k I had mentioned. And then go to 16.5 and see where that gets you. If no sale. Abandon it is my personal opinion. Then approach them again in a month.

Thanks, Jeff! That sounds good, and was just what I was wanting to know. Since the tires have been replaced and the brakes done, I feel the worth of the car has been slightly redeemed, so I might offer a tad more at the outset in an attempt to offend the salesman less... Thanks for the recommendation!

Fred

P.S. There was another Red/Tan '90 with about 81K miles for sale just north of me in Jasper. They only wanted $12,900 for it-- I wanted to go take a look, but they had already sold it. If the car was in any decent condition at all (Carfax checked out okay), they probably didn't even know what they had...

 

[anniv88]

Vette Newb,

Be carefull of the first car on your list. It's NOT a ZR1.

 

[jenavet]

i have a low mileage 90 and my problem has been parts...just about everything has been discontinued and sometimes impossible to find....if i was you,i would buy that car for 18-20,000 and part it out...i bet you would almost double your money in parts!!

 

[bans25]

i have a low mileage 90 and my problem has been parts...just about everything has been discontinued and sometimes impossible to find....if i was you,i would buy that car for 18-20,000 and part it out...i bet you would almost double your money in parts!!

What parts have you not been able to find???

 

[jenavet]

ignition wires for awhile were almost impossible to find,i damaged a valve cover...hard time finding that with a vc gasket.....most of the parts on that motor are dd