Control Arm Bushings

[gedmeyer]

Hey all, as I cleaned my engine bay last weekend (engine is out for a rebuild), I noticed that most of the front control arm (upper and lower) are completely annhilated. My question is, how much of a project is it to change these and is it recommended to do it while the engine is out? I realize that the front suspension has to be pretty much taken out, but I want to make sure things are done right.


Basically, I've got one major restriction to doing this... COST, as I am shelling out a good deal for the engine rebuild. The car is off the road until April or May, so I do have time.

-tim

 

[Johan]

If the engine is in the car or not does not make much of a difference here. What you have to do in the engine bay is to remove the radiator shroud, and maybe also move or remove the alternator.
If you do everything yourself, then there is no major cost involved. If everything comes apart eaily, then it is rather straight forward actually. The big problems (I'm just talking from my own experience, as I am doing this job now myself) arise when things get stuck, like if the ball joints are impossible to separate from the steering knuckle.
Removing the old rubber bushings can be a challenge, but all it takes is a drill and a lot of patience.
Do not remove the old bushing outer shells from the a-arms, if not absolutely necessary (if they are damaged), because installation of the new ones is one of the things that you might want to leave to a shop.

 

[SteveL]

I just finished replacing mine .It wasn't that bad I burned the rubber bushings out and left the outer shells intact Then replaced them with poly bushings.There is a inner sleeve that I took off the A-arm shafts and replaced them with new. Make sure you keep track of the shims on the upper a-arm bolts and put them back in the same place. While you have the front apart you can replace the ball joints easily. I bought a suspension kit that had all the bushings, tie rods, balljoints and idler arm in it.
Steve

 

[gedmeyer]

I've never done any suspension work before. I'm assuming I'll have to rent a spring compressor, correct? When all is said and done, I'll need an alignment too? Besides the spring compressor, will I need any special tools?

 

[gedmeyer]

oh, one more question! I'm going to order the polyurethane front control arm bush set probably from ecklers. Are there any other things I should order?

 

[resto75]

I would replace the ball joints and tie rod ends at the same time. As long as you have it apart do the whole thing. I would buy the ball joints and tie rods locally as it will be cheaper then Ecklers. You might need a ball joint separater which I think is called a pickle. There cheap if you buy one but the parts house you buy the ball joints from will probably lend/rent you one. You might also check your idler arm as they are prone to fail on corvettes.

 

[SteveL]

Like resto75 said you will need a pickle fork for ball joints and for a spring compressor I used a 2' piece of threaded rod and put it down thru the hole for the top shock mount and slipped a 5 1/2" square1/4" plate with a 5/8" hole in the center thru the side of the coil near the bottom. Then put the rod thru the 5/8 hole and put a 1/2" nut and washer on the bottom. On the top I put a couple of heavy washers and a nut, then I tightened the top nut while holding the rod with a visegrip. This will pull the coil spring up. I used this setup to take out the old springs and install new 460lb springs. Do a search on removing balljoints and coil springs. There will be a ton of good info and some precautions to take when removing the balljonts and springs.

 

[Johan]

The coils spring can me removed without a spring compressor, but be sure to take EXTREME CAUTION.
Raise the car high, put a floor jack under the lower a-arm and compress the spring slightly. Separate the a-arm/ball joint from the steering knuckle, and SLOWLY lower the a-arm until the spring is under no load.
It sound simple, but it is a bit scary (atleast I thought so).
Installing the spring without a spring compressor can be tricky though, I haven't tried that.

One important advise: When you separate the (upper) ball joints, do not remove the ball joint nut, just loosen it a few threads.
Leave the nut there until you are sure that the ball joint is loose from the steering knuckle, then you can take it apart in a controlled manner.
Otherwise, you might get a very unpleasant surprise when it comes apart!!!

For poly bushings, I can recommend www.suspenison.com
Cheaper than Ecklers, and they sell Energy Suspension bushings.

 

[brusso]

Like Johan said, I'd leave the outer shells in place after you burn out the bushings. If you have to replace them, I found it easy if you use a hack saw and cut the outer shell from the inside. I mean remove the hack saw blade and slide it through the outer shell and reattatch it to the saw. Then cut the entire length of the shell. When done, what you will have left is a large roll pin like thing. With a little heat and a pair of vise-grips you can then curl in the shell and remove. If you are creative with a bench vise, you can install the new ones yourself. Best bet is to bring them to a shop that has a press to use to install the new ones.

 

[Yamafan]

Removing the springs

After I removed the shock I used a piece of threaded rod and put it where the shock was. A large plate on the bottom butted against the surface of the lower control arm and the rod protruded through the top where the shock connected. a washer and a couple of nuts here. Tighten the nuts to snug the rod in its location and then undo the cross shaft bolts on the bottom. Once undone simply loosen the nut on the thread rod and the whole works lowers to the floor. The thread rod will hold the spring in should it decide to "fly out". This also makes it easy to reinstall. The thread rod should protrude about about 8" to give adequate length to release the spring tension.

My problem is at what angle to I reinstall the pivot shafts back into the a arms. Should the bolt holes be in the same plane as the a arm surface or is there some angle they should be at so as not to prestress the rubber in the bushings?

 

[Johan]

Yamafan/SteveL:
Seem like you used the same method, and i'll be trying this when re-installing. Only thing that concerns me is the diameter of the rod, it must fit thru the shock-mount hole, right, so then it must be rather thin i guess, or?
(I wouldn't like it to snap...)
Well, I havent made any calculations, maybe it's nothing to be concered of?

 

[Paranoid]

I can't add to much to what's already been listed. I agree though, you don't need to purchase the bushings from Ecklers. Try Summit or Jegs for Energy Suspension Poly bushings.

 

[ChuckG]

With replacement poly bushings, you do "re-use" the old bushing shell. With original style bushings, the entire "assembly" is pressed into the A frame.

You can buy original style bushings. You can burn the old rubber ones out, then cut the sleeves and remove them. If you replace them with original style, you must use a press, and you must be careful to not bend the "ears" of the A frame.

If the uppers are as bad as you say, I would guess that the lowers are just as bad. Might as well do those too.

I have a picture of the spring compressor described, but I just have too much trouble posting on this forum. TOO many size constraints, etc. EMail me privately, and I'll send you a pic or two of the so called "Maryland Spring Compressor". Chuck

 

[SteveL]

I used a 1/2" threaded rod. To install the coil spring you might have to use the plate method like I did to pull the coil up so you can get it to sit in the lower a-arm then you can connect it with the upper a-arm. I couldn't get the spring in the lower a-arm with out compressing it in this way.

 

[Jack]

I got a front end kit from Van Steel that had all tie rod ends, ball joints, sway bar links, idler arm & ES polyurethane bushings for about $200 ... I tried pricing it everywhichaway & individually & locally ... but the deal at Van Steel was the best ... & they're real knowledgeable & reliable.

http://www.vansteel.com/

I didn't need spring compressor ... just lotsa jackstands, a floorjack & safety in mind. I think it's alot easier to do with the motor out ... take advantage of the opportunity. While you're at it ... pull the radiator & have it checked/flushed ... it's a breeze to get the upper arms out/in if radiator is already out.

Jack:gap

 

[cruisin-davey-g]

Hi:

I can pull front springs from just about any GM car (rear wheel drive) without even removing the rotor & caliper. You don't need a spring compressor. Just a couple of jack stands, a good piece of a 2X4, & a good working floor jack. Also, a good set of air tools come in handy. The only thing you might need a 'pickle fork' for, is pulling apart the steering linkage. But, I usually cut 'em with a torch.

I rebuilt my whole front end & changed everything.

I don't recommend using the Poly type bushings, as these tend to make for a stiffer ride. That's unless you want the stiffer ride.

I also recommend that the outer bushing shells be replaced, especially if your C-3 has never had new ones installed. Those bushings & sleeves are at least 20-30 years old. Those need to be pressed in with an good arbor press, as they need to go in straight & true.

It's nice to have the engine out when doing a complete front end (suspension) rebuild, but it's no big deal if the motor's there.

Most of the Vettes I change out (front suspension) have the motor in them & it's not that big of an issue.

BTW: When you pulled the motor, did you pull trhe tranny also?

 

[gedmeyer]

I kept the tranny in. I've got the control arms all off, I just need to get the bushings out. NAPA wanted to charge $16 per bushing to have them swapped, so I'm trying to figure out a better way to do it.

 

[Johan]

$16 per bushing??
Are you going with poly or rubber? The rubber ones can be a bit tricky, but if you are using polyurethane they are pressed in by hand, no need to do that in a shop.
You just need a small drill to get the old rubber ones out.

 

[gedmeyer]

I'm doing poly bushings, but I need to remove the old ones first. The control arms are currently at the shop getting sand blasted. So when I get them back, I'll try drilling the old ones out.

What kind of paint would you recommend on them? Just regular engine paint?

 

[Johan]

I just used a regular rust-preventing paint applied with a brush, and covered that with a layer of gloss black spray paint (wheel paint actually, supposed to be more durable).
Nothing fancy, but it looks ok.