Cost of a frame off "restoration"?

[Last Ride]

Hey all--
Okay, since I am basically scrapping the entire suspension and steering as it sits right now, how much more would it end up costing me to just remove the entire body from the car, strip the frame, Por15 (or perhaps powdercoat) frame and suspension parts, and then reassemble? I also want to weld the frame and install a four point roll bar. This will be in the works anyway, but I am imagining how much time I could save by doing it all at once. I plan on doing the suspension and interior this year and then the exterior, and possibly transmission next year all in preparation for a monster motor, hehe. So how about it? Is it worth the extra time and money, or should I just stick the suspension on for now and forget about it? BTW, I got the Vette Brakes Performance Plus System as well as the Steeroids rack ready to go on the car. Thanks for the help!

 

[LEEJANDZ]

What is your budget and acceptable down time for your VETTE?

If you plan on doing the restoration yourself, it will be very rewarding but will take quite a few days.

If you can live with it, start the frame off restoration now.
That way you wont have to go through it all over again.
You will thank yourself when its finished.

:Silly :Silly :Silly

JASON *** BRAND NEW MAGNECOR WIRES FOR SALE!!! *** 1979 L-82

 

[Last Ride]

Not sure what my budget will be, but I do have more time than money. I don't know if I could do a frame off in a 1.5 car garage; however. The car sits most of the time, so having it sit in pieces for several months would not bother me. The rear axle has been completely rebuilt, so no need to tear into that again at this time. brakes are good, though I want to sawp them out for SSBrakes aluminum units at some point. I just want to feel like I am making progress on this car, and looking into the future, I don't want to have to do the same thing twice (ie, suspension installation).

Bryan

 

[Tom73]

I saw a post awhile back from a professional restorer. He said that, on average, it took 1,000 hours to restore a Vette. His basic rate was $50/hr. So the cost would be $50,000 for labor only. Then add in the parts cost. Not cheap. The parts cost will not change. The only thing that can be reduced is the labor by doing it yourself.

tom...

 

[LEEJANDZ]

Last Ride -- Not sure what my budget will be, but I do have more time than money. I don't know if I could do a frame off in a 1.5 car garage; however. The car sits most of the time, so having it sit in pieces for several months would not bother me

Get started. Time is as good as money.

Get a body lift and some friends and youll be done in no time.

 

[matchframe]

I am doing a frame-off right now on my '78. I am taking it slow and am buying parts as money will allow. A 1.5 car garage may be a little tight. Remember, when the body is off the frame, you now have two cars to deal with space wise. The body may have to go outside under a tarp or something to give you enough room to work. I would recommend doing a frame-off if you are reworking the whole frame, makes it much easier to work on the suspension. While down to the frame, I would also recommend replacing all the fuel lines, and brake lines. I wish you well in your project! Keep us updated!

Bill :cool

 

[TZ Racer]

I am just about finished rebuilding our '71 from the bottom up. You can see the project step-by-step on our website http://www.tropiczoneracing.com/Street-Vette.htm

We ran into considerable rust problems. Of the four Corvettes where we looked at birdcage structures, all had considerable structural problems (rust). I don't really believe there are any Vettes out there that do not have hidden rust problems.

We have spent almost 2 years on this project. We have spent WELL over $15,000 not counting any labor.

Our car does have a 4 point rollbar, welded frame with powder-coating. We also, powder coated the birdcage structure. However, "digging" out the birdcage structure turns the rebuild into a major project. (Check pics on website.)

 

[Ol Blue]

LastRide
It sounds like you aren't really planning on doing a complete restoration at once, just want to get the frame done while you have the suspension off, is that correct?

My son and I have done a couple of frame-offs in the last several years, one on a 64 roadster over a two year period, and then last year we did a 68 ex-IMSA racer in about 6 months.

Available space is certainly a consideration, so is the need to catagorize, bag and mark all of the bolts, nuts and parts. You can be sure that it will probably cost you twice what you think it will, and may take twice as long. Just replacing all of the bolts and nuts with the proper markings is pretty costly.

Having a car apart makes it NO FUN, and it's not always easy to stay on task, requiring lots of committment and discipline from yourself (and support from certain other key family members )

You may want to continue to enjoy the car this summer while you make some detailed and realistic plans both in available time and money. You could start in the winter with set goals to have it back on the street by next season.

On the 68 Racer, I had the roll cage complete with NASCAR door bars tacked up, then removed it for complete welding. After that I had it powdercoated and then welded on the frame. It worked out very well, but perhaps you don't need the roll bar powdercoated.

Good luck, it's fulfilling work, but also frustrating. With all of the work we did on the Racer, we still missed the Monterey Historics. Sighhhh,
Ol Blue
http://www.knology.net/~corvettes/Alspaugh-68Racer

 

[mvftw]

My $.02 worth...since it's April, enjoy the car for the summer...this past winter $ucked, start your heavy work in September/October...I also have a '78 S/A 90% Original, I would Not do a frame-off on this because you will never see the return in $$$. I want to do a frame-off but I would like it to be a C2...

 

[KOPBET]

http://www.tropiczoneracing.com/Street-Vette.htm.

Edit your link and take the period out at the end.

 

[Last Ride]

Thanks all, for the adivce and comments. I will probably be just driving the car most of the summer. Another though I had was buying a 75-79 frame or rolling chassis in need of repair and/or restoration. I could then build it up at my own pace with much less down time on the car. The reason I want to go "frame off" is so that I can make the frame more stiff while adding corrosion protection. Others have suggested things such as welding the seams, injecting the frame with foam, etc. I know this can add weight, but this will primarily be a street car. I am going for comfort behind the 685 hp motor!

mvftw-- I know I will never get anywhere near the money out of this car that I am putting into it, but I didn't buy the car to sell. I have owned this car for over five years, and that is the longest I have owned ANY car, lol. The point is, I gave up on the "investment" idea a long time ago. I have fun doing things to this car, so while I am not rich, my hobby has no practical limits. That said, I can also understand where you are coming from. A C2 would sure be fun!

Bryan

 

[matchframe]

685 HP motor? What do you have under the hood? Have you beefed up the drivetrane as well?

 

[Last Ride]

685 HP motor? What do you have under the hood? Have you beefed up the drivetrane as well?

Right now, there is a 1995 LT1 under the hood, mostly stock. I am planning on rebuilding the motor to a 355 with low compression then running a single turbocharger. Should be good for close to 700 hp. I have already selected the turbo, and I am still hunting for shops interested in doing the plumbing. As far as drivetrain goes, I have been talking to a guy that can supposedly build me a stout 4L60E, but I still may go with a 4L80E or TH400/GV overdrive. As for the rear axle, I have been looking/dreaming about a 12-bolt and a 1480 axle setup from Tom's Differentials.

Bryan

 

[Mako]

Originally posted by Last Ride I have been talking to a guy that can supposedly build me a stout 4L60E, but I still may go with a 4L80E or TH400/GV overdrive. As for the rear axle, I have been looking/dreaming about a 12-bolt and a 1480 axle setup from Tom's Differentials.

Bryan

There is no way a 4L60E will hold that kind of power for any length of time even with the best parts avialable.

For an auto, the 4L80E is a stout, physically huge and heavy box, massive surgery will be required.

The GV overdrive mounting would be a problem in a Shark, has anyone done that? The TH-400 + GV OD makes a lot of sense if the fitment problems can be overcome and you have a hella deep wallet.

I'd install a T56 6 speed, that's a far more direct install and conversion parts to bolt it to a Mouse or Rat are avialable along with clutch setups.

http://temp.corvetteforum.net/c3/gwhite75/

Install a Mcleod Street Twin and drive off happy with a lot of $ still in my wallet.

Good luck!
Mako

 

[Last Ride]

There is no way a 4L60E will hold that kind of power for any length of time even with the best parts avialable.

For an auto, the 4L80E is a stout, physically huge and heavy box, massive surgery will be required.

The GV overdrive mounting would be a problem in a Shark, has anyone done that? The TH-400 + GV OD makes a lot of sense if the fitment problems can be overcome and you have a hella deep wallet.

I'd install a T56 6 speed, that's a far more direct install and conversion parts to bolt it to a Mouse or Rat are avialable along with clutch setups.

http://temp.corvetteforum.net/c3/gwhite75/

Install a Mcleod Street Twin and drive off happy with a lot of $ still in my wallet.

Good luck!
Mako

Mako--

I wouldn't mind doing a manual transmission swap, but I have always heard that turbo cars seems to do better with automatics. I know the 4L80E will fit a late-model C3 as I have talked to another forum member that has done it. Take a look at www.montygwilliams.com for pics and installation info. That is an interesting article on the T56!

Bryan

 

[Mako]

Mako--

I wouldn't mind doing a manual transmission swap, but I have always heard that turbo cars seems to do better with automatics. I know the 4L80E will fit a late-model C3 as I have talked to another forum member that has done it. Take a look at www.montygwilliams.com for pics and installation info. That is an interesting article on the T56!

Bryan

Oh, I like that montygwilliams.com page, I haven't visited there since his initial dyno testing some time ago.

An auto can keep the turbo spooled up against the converter agreed, especiially for a drag race car. For a road race car, it's hard to beat a manual for 10/10th.

Comes down to preference I suppose. The 4L80E is a wonderfully robust piece, I have one in my 2500HD truck in fact. It is a big 'ol thang though.

Pretty much comes down to what you want to build and to hell with us peanut gallery guys. :s

I'll happily let you toss the keys to me when your done no matter what tranny you have in the car

CYa!
Allen

 

[Last Ride]

Mako--
Thanks for the advice. It is kind of a moot point right now as it will be some time before this all comes together. I just think I should get the drivetrain in line before the motor so I am not spewing pieces all over the place when the motor comes around.

Bryan

 

[LEEJANDZ]

Last Ride -- It is kind of a moot point right now as it will be some time before this all comes together

Not necessarily...
Your future plans depend on what route you are going to go.
Having an automatic or a manual increases the amount of research you must do to get your car right.