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Cruise control on my 86 is hunting

MarshallDillon

Active member
Joined
Dec 13, 2009
Messages
29
Location
canada
Corvette
1986 Victory red coupe
What would I have to replace? We are going to put vacuum gauges on the air hoses to make sure they are good. Otherwise, I guess it is the main canister, or whatever you call it. The rubber looks ok. Or is it a bad ground?
 
What would I have to replace? We are going to put vacuum gauges on the air hoses to make sure they are good. Otherwise, I guess it is the main canister, or whatever you call it. The rubber looks ok. Or is it a bad ground?

surging or unable to hold steady....? leaking vac diaphram or vac hose. If the cables are adjusted too loose or the chain that does it too. A spring thats too stiff on the TB will make it fight for a steady speed.
 
You have a loping idle? When warmed up, you pull up to a stoplight, and it pulls, like it wants to go?

If so, you likely have a vacuum leak.

See here:
Originally Posted by Schrade
No one got the proper technique for vacuum leak detection... :confused

FIRST (fully warmed up motor); block the pedal, or block the throttle linkage. YOU HAVE TO DO THIS TO GET A STEADY IDLE , around 1,250 rpms, or a little higher. If you don't, you can fish starting fluid, a propane hose, or WD40, or Krylon, or hair spray, or pee, anything, until you need a sweater in Hades, but if the motor is lopin' already from a vacuum leak, you ain't gonna' find any vacuum leak, unless it's so big that Little Jack Horner can stick his thumb in it and pull out a pineapple NOPE.

AFTER you get a steady idle, THEN, you can spray starting fluid everywhere - that's the best detector, because it's vapor pressure is very high - a LITTLE at a time, until you get the SURGE. Follow the vacuum lines to the EVAP cannister too. You might even have to follow the EVAP lines from the EVAP cannister to the gas tank too, but that vac leak will show up as a DTC 32 EGR fault, and won't normally show as loping idle, unless the EVAP cannister has been by-passed (been there, saw that uh-huh YUp).

If you get a surge in a tight spot, and can't tell exactly where it is, light a book of matches, blow out the match heads while they're still burnin', and feed the smoke to the tight spot.

Fear not the starting fluid; you cannot put the can down fast enough and light the matches fast enough to catch the starting fluid, because the vapor pressure is so high.

Bookmark this post YUP.

Only one person ever got this done right and found the leak - weavesvette - in c4guru.com. If you got any questions about the procedure, bring 'em...
 
surging or unable to hold steady....? leaking vac diaphram or vac hose. If the cables are adjusted too loose or the chain that does it too. A spring thats too stiff on the TB will make it fight for a steady speed.
Well, it speeds up about a mph, and then it slows down an mph. Very annoying.
 
You have a loping idle? When warmed up, you pull up to a stoplight, and it pulls, like it wants to go?

If so, you likely have a vacuum leak.

See here:

Only one person ever got this done right and found the leak - weavesvette - in c4guru.com. If you got any questions about the procedure, bring 'em...
Sometimes the idle speed is just about dangerous when I'm driving. I punch the accelerator to see if it is sticking, but it does not seem to be. I have to get on the brake to slow the thing down. Then--I'm going by memory now, the motor seems to slow down. Not good.
 
What would I have to replace? We are going to put vacuum gauges on the air hoses to make sure they are good. Otherwise, I guess it is the main canister, or whatever you call it. The rubber looks ok. Or is it a bad ground?


Does your speedometer jump around, or is the needle steady at all speeds?
 
Does your speedometer jump around, or is the needle steady at all speeds?
No sir, if I put it at 100 kph, she goes to 102, then backs off to 99, and then we start the whole thing over again. Your thoughts...?
 
No sir, if I put it at 100 kph, she goes to 102, then backs off to 99, and then we start the whole thing over again. Your thoughts...?


Curing Your C4’s Cruise Control


If the speedo works good, then it is probably a hard problem in the cruise control. Here is a link to some easy tests that are worth a try, they may be of some value to your problem. Good luck with it. :)
 
Curing Your C4’s Cruise Control


If the speedo works good, then it is probably a hard problem in the cruise control. Here is a link to some easy tests that are worth a try, they may be of some value to your problem. Good luck with it. :)
Read the whole thing. Thank you. Wrote it down and will find the problem on Teusday. Will report back. I couldn't get the resistance values though. I did note that on the picture, the leads were on the first and third from the bottom.
 
Well, we could not get the cruise control canister to hold a vacuum, key on or off. Either it is screwed or I am doing something wrong in my cheching.
 
If it's not in the linkage, like LL was saying (from the vacuum module/motor-to-throttle connector), then I say the dump line is leaking.

You say it won't hold vacuum, so this could be the case. Plug the vacuum dump port, AT the module/motor, where the bigger line comes out of it.

Then take a ride, and test it. Post back. NOTE: with the dump port capped, the cruise will have to be turned off at the Cruise OFF position...
 
I purchased a pump up vacuum gauge last night. I put it on the vacuuum side of the cruise control diaphram and it would not hold vacuum. The ohmeter was employed to test the resistance of the unit, and it was within spec according to the s/m. The dump valve held vacuuum perfectly. The vacuum when motor running and at diaphram is within 1 lb., within spec. So that must be it: the diaphram will not hold vacuum, hence I must purchase a new one. Anyone have thoughts on the best deal out there?
 
Sounds like you tested everything perfectly there. Maybe double check to be sure...
 

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