Dexcool or Regular Green Antifreeze

[bobmanx]

I've been reading some of the posts on other forums here and it sounds like Dexcool is not something that I want to use in any of my liquid cooled cars. Now for the questions. How does one know that there is Dexcool in the 67 Corvette that I have just become the owner of (test, smell, color, etc)? And if its in there whats the best way to completely remove it from a car, that has sat for three years in storage, and hasnt been run. Are there any "Flush Kits" that will neutralize it and get it all out of a cooling system? Am I screwed, as in eaten gaskets or what? Is this a real problem with Dexcool and is this what a Chevrolet dealer uses when they work on older customer cars or just "new from the factory cars"? If its that bad as the other posts seem to lead one to believe, why would GM continue to use it in their cars and repair work. Seems like they would spend more in warranty repairs than they would be making on selling Dexcool if there is a problem? Any suggestions?
Thanks Bob

 

[Vetsvette2002]

Bob,

First, what color is your coolant now. If it is greenish-yellow (Prestone) or blue (Peak) it is not dexcool. If it is redsish it probably is. DO NOT drink either type, they are poisonous.

There are flush kits available but a word of warning. Cleaning an old and relatively uncared for colling system MAY generate several leaks. The crud that gets removed and flushed out were what was preventing the leaks. And a well maintained system shouldn't need chemical flushing. The kits are OK for the flushing with the hose and water though. Or just drain and refill will water, circulate it through the system and repeat as often as need to get clear clean water out the radiator's draincock. The fill with a 50 - 50 mix of antifreeze of either type (I use prestones ethylene glycol type - not dexcool in my vette, for what that is worth) and distilled water. I do this every year.

Do this and your system should last a very long time.

Don

 

[Interceptor430]

From what I experienced, and read, the Dexicool doesn't start causing problems until the vehicles get 4+ years on them - and
60K+ miles - which is beyond the 36/36 Dealer fix it Warranty.
I use the Green stuff....Green is Good! Dexicool is bad for the inside of your engine(gels up the water passages and eats the gaskets (intake for sure) if left in there for years/miles and not changed.
Yep...change the oil and filter often...oil is the #1 lifeblood of the engine...well, there is also another fluid running around inside there - and it's the coolant/antifreeze - $6 a gallon....change it
every year or 2 also.....
If you have Dexicool in there now...be sure to run a water hose thru the engine to clean it out...

 

[bobmanx]

Vetsvette and Interceptor, car is not handy to check, its about 600 miles away at the moment. As mentioned in the previous posts, "67 Convert. questions" I have been the new designated owner of the "Vette" and only had a few minutes to check it out, and did not think to open the radiator cap to look. car has been in storage for three plus years and I will look a lot closer on the next visit.
I was going thru the "Vette file" that my uncle kept on the car, and saw that it was flushed and refilled with "NON GM" coolant as specified by owner! on a chevy dealer work order, so there should not be a Dexicool time bomb ticking in that 327. I hope and have fingers crossed. I will definately flush it asap and remove whatever is in it and refill with green as one of the first things that is done before motor is even turned over!
Oil was clean when I pulled the dip while doing the quick once over, but it will be drained and refilled also prior to any type of awakening. Others have answered with their suggestions as to what would be the correct way to awaken it from storage in the previous threads. Any and all suggestions are appreciated as I dont want to create more problems. Thanks will be sure to add that to the next visit check list. car will be trailered home (600 + miles) then the fun begins!!!
Thanks for the info, Bob

 

[Interceptor430]

Bobmanx,
Yea Man, that's good news ref it having green antifreeze.
Stay with the Green - yea, somebody is making Blue - but I won't use that either....
Ref waking one up from long storage...if the oil is clean, then I would think about doing this:...remove the coil wire and spin the engine for 20 seconds or so - make sure the battery is fully charged for this - and do this several times. By spinning the engine and not allowing it to crank like this makes the oil pump
spin and distribute oil up thru the engine...making sure all those
moving parts get a good coat of oil. Then, after this, and other things you plan to do, replace the coil wire and crank the engine.
After running/driving for a 5+ mile normal speed/rpm - then I'd change the oil and filter. (Doing it this way might help the filter
catch any stuff that 'developed' inside the engine while it was in storage)
Many guys (including myself) pull the distributor out and spin the oil pump with a socket/extention and electric drill. I do this monthly on some Ford engines I have on engine stands awaiting sale....if you're comfortable with pulling/installing distributors then this is the best way to prime/reprime the oil pump and distribute oil throughout the engine topend.
I wish you the best with getting your baby home.
What an exciting and anxious time it will be. Enjoy!!!
Just be sure and do what you think is best....all of this stuff is
JMHO.

 

[bobmanx]

Interceptor, I will install a new battery as the old one is DOA, parking lights will not even light. I plan on rechecking the oil, and will probably drain it and refill it and new filter, prior to just spinning it, numerous times, with no plugs, to get the oil distributed to all the moving parts. It was suggested to do it with the plugs removed and even a light squirt or two of "Marvel Mystery oil" in each cylinder prior to even trying to spin it, to lube the cylinder wals a bit. All this after flushing the cooling system and refill with "Green" antifreeze. Before the tires even hit the street the brake fluid will be flushed and replaced, all the brake lines and brake functions will be checked, and repaired, replaced as needed. I dont need to drive it tomorrow, so I have the luxury of time to do it right. I dont even want to try 600+ miles on unknown anything so it will be trailered to its new home. I dont want it near the street until its ready mechanicaly, safe and reliable.
Thanks for all the info and suggestions. There are numerous people out there that have done this before, several times, and I want to learn from them, as to what are their answers on how to proceed. And try not to cause any unnecessary problems that would keep it from being driven. Im sure there will be things that will be in need of repair, but why add to the list by being in a hurry.
Thanks Bob

 

[Interceptor430]

Oh Yea...sounds like you have a great plan going there. I'd not seen the previous threads on bringing it back to life - but hey, getting fresh fluids in there and everywhere is absoluetly the right thing to do...and spinning the engine to give him a good internal oil bath is definately the right thing to do(why I went into so much detail).....again, it sounds like you have a checklist/plan developed and you're getting so very close to 'do it time'.
I wish you the very best!!!



please keep us updated!

 

[bobmanx]

Interceptor, the only thing thats holding up the "do it time" is getting everything in line to get it home. I dont want to let it sit on the side of the road some where due to poor planning. I want a smooth, and uneventful, 1200+ mile round trip. I have had enough " road trips from HELL", and they make great stories but can give you experience, as to what not to do or try. LOL There was a trip to Texas in December one year, watched a guy that had no business driving a large Uhaul with a car trailer tacked on behind it, slide off the road, in the snow, and lay it on its side. It all happened in slow motion, and no one hurt, but as it says on the side of Uhaul trucks "an Adventure in Moving". I'm sure next time he calls a moving company.
Thanks for the info, help and encouragement. Will post as things progress and keep all informed.
Bob

 

[Interceptor430]

Oh, I understand the anxiety, time factor, etc.
I absoluetly love road trips - and hey, ifn we were on the same coast and close by, then you can bet I'd be wanting to help you haul it home(just for enough to cover gas,food, any lodging expenses). I have a good Rig to do this type stuff....and enjoy doing it.
Hell, last time I made the Carlisle trip, I drug my trailer up there empty....it worked out great since somebody needed a car they'd bought hauled to Orlando, and told me they'd pay me $1K to do it(I'd done it for much less - but he named the price right off the bat).....my actual cost for the trip was under 200. So I enjoyed
the extra cash, for sure. Again, I love any type road trip!

Again, I wish you the very best.

 

[JohnZ]

Bob, when you drain/refill the cooling system, don't just drain at the radiator; pull the two drain plugs for the block (one on each side, just above the pan rail). These are the ONLY drains for the water jackets around the cylinders, and that area fills up with corrosion products and crud like you wouldn't believe, and most folks never drain it. Use a six-point socket to remove them, and don't be surprised if nothing comes out - stick a scratch awl or small screwdriver in the hole to dislodge the crud, and coolant will POUR out. You need to do both sides, as they're not cross-connected; use some anti-seize on the plugs when you replace them, and they'll be easier to remove next time.

 

[bobmanx]

JohnZ, Thanks will make sure it happens, prior to running it! and will flush well!
Thanks Bob