KOPBET
Well-known member
If you're interested ...
Actually, I started last night by removing the air bleed plug from the top of the thermostat housing and taking it to the AP store to find the right size hose to fit over it for use during the air bleed process. I bought 3ft. of 3/8 in. rubber hose (thanks to a previous thread idea) and some plastic wire ties and returned home. Removed the MAF and boots as a unit and disconnected various and sundry vac. hoses from the right side of the TB, also disconnected plugs to the MAP and the AIR purge solenoid to facilitate access to the right angled rubber water hose connected to the TB. Too freakin humid outside so I quit for the evening.
Tonight came the fun stuff. I was trying to be smart by attempting to remove the short right angle hose intact, but this turned out to be more trouble than it was worth and I eventually cut it off of the end opposite the TB. Then removed the outlet hose from the left side of the TB, snipped half an inch off the end, and moved it to the metal water pipe where the inlet hose had been before. It seems there must have been a fair bit of air in this area rather than coolant since during the whole process I only lost about a tablespoon of coolant (towels all around to catch the loss).
Replaced the bleed screw plug (without the screw) into the stat housing and pushed the rubber hose onto it and cinched a wire tie around it to hold it in place and keep it from leaking. Put the other end into the radiator inlet after removing the cap and pushed it in until it was well submerged, again held in place with plastic ties so not to fall out along with a towel wrap around the inlet neck. Replaced the MAF and boots. Started engine an let run until the shortcut hose got hot and turned it off. Let cool, remove the hose, catch the dribbles, put the bleed screw and rad cap back, and voila! TB bypass, total cost approx. $8 and about a liter of de-ionized water added to the system.
Actually, I started last night by removing the air bleed plug from the top of the thermostat housing and taking it to the AP store to find the right size hose to fit over it for use during the air bleed process. I bought 3ft. of 3/8 in. rubber hose (thanks to a previous thread idea) and some plastic wire ties and returned home. Removed the MAF and boots as a unit and disconnected various and sundry vac. hoses from the right side of the TB, also disconnected plugs to the MAP and the AIR purge solenoid to facilitate access to the right angled rubber water hose connected to the TB. Too freakin humid outside so I quit for the evening.
Tonight came the fun stuff. I was trying to be smart by attempting to remove the short right angle hose intact, but this turned out to be more trouble than it was worth and I eventually cut it off of the end opposite the TB. Then removed the outlet hose from the left side of the TB, snipped half an inch off the end, and moved it to the metal water pipe where the inlet hose had been before. It seems there must have been a fair bit of air in this area rather than coolant since during the whole process I only lost about a tablespoon of coolant (towels all around to catch the loss).
Replaced the bleed screw plug (without the screw) into the stat housing and pushed the rubber hose onto it and cinched a wire tie around it to hold it in place and keep it from leaking. Put the other end into the radiator inlet after removing the cap and pushed it in until it was well submerged, again held in place with plastic ties so not to fall out along with a towel wrap around the inlet neck. Replaced the MAF and boots. Started engine an let run until the shortcut hose got hot and turned it off. Let cool, remove the hose, catch the dribbles, put the bleed screw and rad cap back, and voila! TB bypass, total cost approx. $8 and about a liter of de-ionized water added to the system.
