Do it yourself engine swap

[LIRacer]

I've rebuilt or had rebuilt, everything on my LT-1. Just had it painted back to dark gray, the tranny and rear are redone, , A/C works again, new suspension with numerous upgrades (bushings, composite springs, offset trailing arms), mounted 10 inch wheels in the back. I love the track and tow the car to VIR, Road Atlanta, Car Guys...for events.

Being that the LT-1 is numbers matching, I know I am on borrowed time by pushing a 31 year old engine as hard as I do, so I am planning to swap out with a built crate engine.

I love doing thing myself, and have a pretty good setup as far as a garage and tools are concerned. I have never swapped out an engine, and I need info on how to do it, tools needed, etc etc.

Any help would, as usual, be greatly appreciated.

Bruce

 

[matchframe]

1st thing you need is a good hoist to pull the engine out. You can rent them at tool supply companies, or just buy one for a couple hundred dollars. I use an old chain hoist, but would love to have a hydraulic lift, you can maneuver the motor up and around easier with a hydraulic lift. You will find that you will use it for alot of other things.

When you connect the hoist to the motor, if you still have the lifting eyes on the intake, you can attach there. Get a chain about 2 1/2 feet long with two 1/2-inch shackles. Run the shackles through the chain, then bolt it to the lifting eyes. If you don't have the lifting eyes, just pull out two intake bolts, one at the rear of the intake on the passenger side, and the other on the front of the motor on the drivers side, and put in stainless bolts that are about 3/4 inches longer than your intake bolts. Just bolt the ends of the chain to the intake using washers so the bolts will not slip through the chain. If your chain ends up too long, get a bolt, nut and washers and pinch the chain together where it is the right length and bolt it.

Also, do you have manual trans or auto? The automatic chassis has a bolt-on crossmember, while the manual trans chassis is welded in. If you have auto, pull the crossmember out so the trans can swing down during the pull. You will have to support the trans with a floor jack when you pull the crossmember. I find it easier to pull the trans out with the motor, that way you can make the trans up to the new motor on the shop floor, rather than in the confined spaces under the Vette.

You will have to pull the hood off so the lift will have access to the motor. Also pull the radiator out, and put a piece of plywood in to protect the A/C condenser. Do not break the A/C system open, just unbolt the compressor from its bracket, and wire it to the fender with a coathanger where it will be out of the way. When you lift the motor off its mounts, it will tend to come forward, so any protection to the condenser is recommended. Make sure all of your fluids are drained out, because the last thing you need when the motor is in the air, is a slippery floor to deal with. If you pull the trans out with the motor, be sure to cap the tailshaft of the trans, so when you swing the motor up, trans fluid will not drain out when it goes up at an angle.

Be sure to protect your fenders with something thick and soft. If I think of anything else, I will post later.

When you install the new motor, just do the opposite what you did on the pull.

There is nothing like the feeling of when you fire that baby up and hearing it come to life after you install it yourself!!

Keep us up to date with pics when you do this!

Bill

 

[LIRacer]

Thanks Bill, I will post pictures as I go along.

Bruce

 

[MaineShark]

Another thing to remember, when dealing with an engine lift, is that the 'Vettes have a long nose, so some lifts aren't long enough to reach.

Joe

 

[69MyWay]

The best way to do this is with an overhead hoist/lift. The nose is too long on the shark for a standard engine lift/cherry picker to do the job.

Go up in your attic over the garage and find a suitable place to reinforce. I ran extra beams with liquid nails and nails, then cross braced and then ran a 4x4 beam with steel angle iron on each side of it. This has a chain around it poking through a hole in the ceiling.

On a small block shark, you need to go under and pull the drive shaft, shifter cable or shifter handle (stick vs. auto), drop the exhaust and uplug all wires, speedo, etc.

On top, unplug the main electrical, hoses, and cables. drop your headers/manifolds. Unbolt the engine mounts (pull the long bolts out). Pull the fan blade and fan shroud.

Now, believe it or not, you can pull the engine and trans as ONE with the radiator support and radiator still in the car. It is tight, but can be done. With the ceiling based hoist, hook to the motor, lift, and roll the car backwards. Keep doing so until you can swing the motor and trans over the nose, and have a friend keep rolling the car back.

Mark where the wheels where!. When putting the new engine in, reverse the procedure, just make sure you roll the car into the same spot, and it will all line up.

 

[matchframe]

Definately follow Joe and Chris's advise about the cherry picker lift, and use an overhead lift. The only time I have pulled the motor out of a shark was a '71 in which I used an overhead chain hoist. It did not occur to me about the long nose of the shark.

The times I used a cherry picker lift was on Camaros, Chevelles, Vega, and a couple of Mustangs. Because of their short noses, the hydraulic lift works well.

Bill

 

[LIRacer]

I hear ya Chris, Bill and Jos about the overhead. The problem is, I have no access to the joists above the garage ceiling. The garage is finished and there are bed rooms above it. Is there some type of extended hydraulic hoist????

bruce

 

[matchframe]

One time I rented a hydraulic hoist that was real heavy duty. It was the type that you tilted over and hooked to your trailer hitch to tow. It had trailer wheels like a boat trailer. I remember that it had an extendable arms and legs that stretched out about 6 to 8 feet. One like this might work. I used it to pull the motor out of GMC S-15. Somewhat of an overkill for that truck, but it was the only one they had available at the time. I rented it from an industrial tool supply for about 50 bucks for 48 hours. Maybe you could locate something like this to rent. I considered renting one of these when I lifted the body off my Vette, but decided to build an overhead chain hoist trolley system in my garage.

Bill

 

[Blue82]

I pulled my motor out two weekends ago. If you are going to use a hydraulic hoist you can take off the passenger side front tire and come in with the hoist from the side of the fender well. It'll obviously work from either side, but that's the one I used.

Also, if you don't pull the trans with the motor, be prepared to take your time rejoining them. I did this last summer when I rebuilt the motor and it gave me fits getting the auto trans to line up and slide back together. Make sure the engine will turn before bolting them back together so you know they aren't binding. Also, an engine leveler will help you ALOT.

Good luck...

David

 

[LIRacer]

Thanks Dave
Thanks Bill

 

[1BAD80]

If you havent removed your hood yet, drill and tap 3 . 1/4"-24 holes in each hinge. This will work as a net locator when you put the hood back on and won't have to adjust the hood for fit. Here's GMs parts site, they have some great deals on crate motors with warrenty.
http://www.proformparts.com/catalog/index.html

Here's the info on a great motor to use.
GM PART # 12496769
CATEGORY: Eng Asm-(must provide commercial shipping address)
PACK QTY: 1 CORE CHARGE: $0.00
GM LIST: $5,752.60
OUR PRICE: $4,026.82
DESCRIPTION: FAST BURN 385 ENGINE
With more ZZZ through ZZ4 crate engines sold over the years than any other high performance crate engine, it only makes sense that GMPP would continue to improve that successful family of engines. The new Fast Burn uses the proven ZZ4 shortblock and ads to it the Fast Burn cylinder heads for 385 value packed horsepower. With value in mind, the Fast Burn uses stamped rocker arms and the same ZZ4 camshaft that powers thousands of hot rods. The Fast Burn is an excellent choice for the basis of a custom engine. Its strong forged steel crankshaft and forged powdered metal connecting rods have been proven to 500 horsepower. And its Fast Burn cylinder heads are hungry for a little more camshaft, approximately 425 horsepower at 6000 rpm is achievable by adding the HOT cam and 1.6 self aligning rocker arms.

 

[matchframe]

1BAD80,

What a great idea on the hood! I wish I heard that tip before I disassembled my Vette! I will remember that next time.

Thanks!
Bill

 

[Drummer72]

Come on guys, no need to drill holes in the bonnet. Simply use a few cm of duct tape marking the original location. Works a treat.
I am currently working on taking the engine out of the car. Can anyone tell me where to hoist the block? I guess one has to inset lugs in the engine block, but where do they go?

 

[Whiteshadow89158]

label everything if your not familiar with the electrical

 

[LVMYVT76]

Take pictures of everything as you take it apart for help putting it back!

 

[JohnZ]

Can anyone tell me where to hoist the block? I guess one has to inset lugs in the engine block, but where do they go?

Assuming you're using an engine hoist, I use the four intake manifold bolt locations at the extreme corners; I replace them with Grade 8 bolts and hardened washers to attach the chains from the "tilter" on the hoist.